Shrimp Dying! No idea why - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Shrimp Dying! No idea why

I have been struggling to keep shrimp alive in my planted tank. Been going and cycled for about 3 weeks when I purchased shrimp at LFS. Two died within a few days from what I assumed was temperature fluctuations ( was 72 before bed and and woke up to tank at 63 and shrimp dead).

I had one shrimp berried and seeming okay. I didn't see her eat much, tbh which had me worried and she was always hanging out near the surface.

I'd checked water parameters and ammonia and nitrites were 0 and nitrates low. I have an airstone to help oxygenate the water. There are a ton of daphnia and other small things swimming about which I thought was a good sign of a well regulated tank.

Last night, the berried female was hanging out and she was dark brown. This morning I woke up to find her almost red in color and dead. Water temperature did not change and parameters were all normal. I did a small water change yesterday but not sure if that affected things as the parameters were normal.

Please help! I am so distraught.

First two are of the 2 shrimps I thought died from water temp fluctuation:

The next pictures taken roughly 12 hours apart. She was found that color and just lying there in the morning.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 05:32 PM
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Your parameters could tell us a lot more about what has happened. KH, pH, and TDS in particular. 63 isn't too cold for shrimp but 9 degrees overnight is a ton of fluctuation. Shrimp do not suffer change, so a steady temp should be kept. How did you acclimate these shrimp to your tank? Using the drip method is best next time you try some. But I'd suggest letting that tank age a good bit more before trying more shrimp. They feed primarily on film algae and biofilm and these haven't had time to establish in 3 weeks.

Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 05:40 PM
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How did you "cycle" your tank? Could you detail the methods or methodology you used?

What ammonia source did you use? What concentration did you dose? Which specific test kit did you use and did you test daily?

Did you buy a mix of colors from your LFS? Did the LFS have multiple colors of shrimp in the same tank?


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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pH is 7.2 and has remained steady. I don't have means of checking the other things you mentioned. I am new to this.

And I used the drip method over the course of an hour.

Maybe there isn't enough bio film for them to feed. I have supplemented with algae disks and blanched zucchini but they didn't really go after it.

Bump: I guess I didn't think much about cycling with great detail like you mentioned. I used the gravel and soil from my previous tank of 6 months which had a betta fish and tons of plants. Transferred the plants into this new tank along with the soil/gravel.

I did use seachem stability to help with the cycling and actually still do. I thought that would be enough, but I'm guessing not.

I use the Freshwater Master Test kit from LFS. and yes, I did buy a mix of colors and they had a mix in the tank as well.

Do you think getting a product to promote biofilm would be a good idea? \


I'm relatively new and humbled by this whole amazing experience, so I am open to accepting all your knowledge!

Last edited by Darkblade48; 02-01-2020 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejcleary View Post
Do you think getting a product to promote biofilm would be a good idea? \
In my view, time is the best thing to promote biofilm. I prefer to set shrimp tanks for 90 days with plants, "pest" snails and lighting before adding shrimp. Mature tanks are paramount to success. Shrimp keeping is not a hobby of instant gratification.



I would buy a KH kit if one isn't in your master kit as well as a TDS pen.

Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 07:41 PM
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Your tank isn't cycled. That's unfortunately, regardless of anything else, a big part of why your shrimp are dying.

Stop using Stability. It's probably not doing anything for you right now.

If you have shrimp that are still alive, you're going to need to know and understand your water parameters and you're going to need to be able to do frequent water changes. That is - if you don't have another suitable, existing tank that could house the shrimp until this tank is more ideal for them.

Have you read much here on the forum about keeping shrimp? If not, definitely dive in and start reading. That'll help you more than anything and will make you feel more confident in your endeavors.

When it comes to cycling... do you feel comfortable going through the paces to properly cycle a tank without livestock in it? Adding ammonia, testing, all that? If not, what questions do you have about it? That'll help us make sure you have a better understanding.

Note: I asked about how your LFS had the shrimp (i.e., in a single tank) because there are only a couple wholesalers that offer Neocaridina shrimp like that in the US. So your confirmation was really helpful. Can't say for certain you didn't receive healthy shrimp but, honestly, I'm going to guess what you received weren't in tip top shape. That made them less capable of adapting to a new environment and less capable of weathering the storm of a newly established tank. The main wholesaler is, in my opinion, a nightmare for this hobby. /rant


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2020, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhatshocked View Post
Note: I asked about how your LFS had the shrimp (i.e., in a single tank) because there are only a couple wholesalers that offer Neocaridina shrimp like that in the US. So your confirmation was really helpful. Can't say for certain you didn't receive healthy shrimp but, honestly, I'm going to guess what you received weren't in tip top shape. That made them less capable of adapting to a new environment and less capable of weathering the storm of a newly established tank. The main wholesaler is, in my opinion, a nightmare for this hobby. /rant
I went to a hatchery/wholesaler in my state and saw their cherry shrimp set up and how they netted them out to bag them for customers. The handling was beyond rough as they counted them in a dry net and flicked them out one by one. I saw one on the floor. When they got an order for "mixed cherries" they just scooped some up from each tank and counted them into a specimen cup together. And this was during an open house where buyers were present, I can only imagine when no eyes were on them.

Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2020, 04:59 AM
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Is this a new tank or a used tank?

Any chance the tank was ever treated with copper meds? (or anything in it that was moved from the other tank)

You need the GH and KH test kit together. Liquid test kits, too.



There's a good chance that you purchased imported shrimp, which usually don't acclimate well to tanks in the USA.... add in the fact that they are adults, and it's a potential recipe for disaster. It's recommended to get juvies over adults as they generally acclimate better, and if you buy from a breeder, better chance of success.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 12:54 AM
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I would also suggest to just keep cycling for a while. I know it sucks to wait but for shrimp, in my experience, success with a more mature tank is easier to come by.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 01:11 AM
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I can add that I have had challenges acclimating Amano shrimp to my 30 gallon aquarium. Based on my own observations to date:

You had mentioned temperature, Ammonia, and Nitrate. While these are important, I can add that JUST as important are additional water chemistry paramters

the next time you go to a store to purchase shrimp, request the pH, KH, and GH readings of the current tank the shrimp are in at the store. If you do not know what I am referring to, purchase a pH KH and GH test kit to have at all times at home and to bring to the store. You want to know what the pH, KH and GH readings are of the water in your tank as well as the readings at the pet shop tank the shrimp are in.

I have spent hours placing purchased Amano shrimp into a Tupperware container on top of my aquarium so the water temperature in the Tupperware container matches the temperature in my tank. In addition, I shut my aquarium light OFF for 1 full day to reduce stress on the shrimp. I place some of my tank water into another container at a level above my tank to allow a siphon to occur through an airline hose and valve set to online drip into the Tupperware container with the shrimp in it at a rate of about 1 drop every 5 sec. Shrimp are EXTREMELY sensitive to pH changes and/or drastic hardness changes. I have found based on experience that your home aquarium should really have nearly the same pH or within 2 steps that the store kept the shrimp at. By steps I mean if the store water is at 7.6, and your tank is at 7.2, I would consider it 1st step drop to go from 7.6 to 7.4 and a 2nd step drop from 7.4 to 7.2. I have never had success acclimating shrimp more than 2 steps of pH change in one day. I really think you will have the best chance of acclimating shrimp checking on the store water ahead of time and getting your tank nearly the same pH, KH, and GH if possible. You do NOT want to change the chemistry on the same day you introduce the shrimp but will want the home tank water set and in equilibrium at least one day prior.

Example: suppose your pet shop has pH - 7.8, KH - 8 and GH - 20 and your tank is at pH - 7.4, KH - 6 and GH - 15; I would assume the chances are good that as long as you perform an online drip over several hours and do not introduce the shrimp into your tank until the Tupperware container basically contains nearly almost all your home tank water (remember to keep your tank light OFF 1 full day) to better allow the shrimp to tolerate the stressful change from store water chemistry to your water chemistry. It is ideal if the water chemistry is nearly the same at your home that is at the store or where the shrimp were bred. Performing a proper acclimation takes time to have the best chance. Also be careful when putting them into your tank as well since they are fragile.

For my next attempt, I am purchasing from The Shrimp Farm which specifies what their water parameters are which seem to be very close to what my chemistry parameters are.


Good luck on your next attempt at acclimating shrimp into your tank. See some helpful links below.

https://www.aquariumcreation.com/blo...ng-your-shrimp <<<==== this is an excellent link! only thing I would change is make online drip rate slower and have your tank light OFF

https://aquariuminfo.org/shrimptank.html

https://www.theshrimpfarm.com/posts/acclimating-shrimp/ <<<<===== also excellent link

https://www.aquariumcarebasics.com/f.../amano-shrimp/
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