I do not consider myself an expert on anything :/ and I would agree with much of what has been posted, mainly that patience and stability are key, and the things I don't agree with have been refuted multiple times (such as heater is bad imo except with sulawesi/ warm water varieties which are not the norm at all).

I mostly don't fertilize my shrimp tanks and I keep snails with all my shrimp, partially because I think they're benificial and partially because my puffers are ravenous. If I had the space my shrimptanks would all be frag tanks :/ maybe evaporation is a little worse, but I just like big shallow tanks, even my garbage scapes look okay in frag tanks and they're just way easier to screw around with than deep tanks. Standing on a stool to stick my arm all the way into a tank to do anything in the back is big pita and maybe my favorite thing about my shrimp tanks is frankly how little maintenance I do and how relatively easy that mainenance is. I do up to 4 big waterchanges a week for my puffer tank.

It's been mentioned but I'm of the opinion that juvenile shrimp are better to acquire as they acclimate easier and seem way less likely to die from a molt in a new tank, though sometimes in a LFS you can pick out berried females if they let you choose and at my closest LFS they will give me extras if I pick something they only have juveniles of because 'they're so small'.

I want to make a note here about heaters and why I use them. Before that, I would like to agree with others that have posted here about not needing them for Neocaridina shrimp. However, individual circumstances apply in some cases. For me, I have no central air/heat. I live in steamy NE Texas. I use portable a/c's set on timers in the summer and space heaters while occupying a room in the winter. In summer, cold air is blowing directly at my shrimp tanks most of the day and in winter, the room temp is just a bit above the outside temp. Needless to say, my heaters work for a living. That's what works for me because of my circumstances. Bottom line: DO WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO TO KEEP YOUR SHRIMP HAPPY AND HEALTHY.
There is also one other thing I suggest for anyone wanting to cull their colony and improve the lot. That would be a jewelers' loupe or for those that can afford it, a decent digital camera with with a macro lens. Either way will allow you to look at a shrimp up close to see the pigmentation and/or pattern on the body. This helps considerably with culling. This suggestion may be shrimp 102, but it is a good thing to help folks grade the little guys.
Another handy item is a Dip 'n' Pour. You know, that thing that the folks at the pet shop use to bag your fish/shrimp when you pick them. The plastic thingy that hangs on the tank. You can use it to get better looks at a shrimp and as a hospital tank.
That's all-Happy Shrimping... OH! Wait! One more thing, Patience, it can't be overstated.

Sorry I just read the question as what would you recommend as needed and it was listed in response to that question with no explanation seemingly recommending a heater to all, rather than to those with special circumstances, which I found a little odd because I was able to get behind your other suggestions.

@Wobblebonk- Not referring to you or anyone in particular, so no need to say sorry. I just wanted to clear up why I use them and to let others new to the hobby know why. They actually make me nervous in any tank. I check temps several times daily. Cooked a tank of fish or two in the past due to stuck "ON" heaters.
You are correct in how I wrote my response on the things needed for a shrimp tank. It was misleading and I should have clarified as to why I use them. Cheers.

Thank you everyone for your responses- I have learned so much from them.
But, stop saying... "I am not an expert"- no need to be an expert- only that you share your experiences.
I need to change the original post to reflect that.

My advice for intermediate-level shrimp keepers (i.e. ones that already have their water parameters under control) is to watch out for water pollution from overfeeding. The water parameters can be fine, but the shrimp go inert and then start dying off. I think many by-products of food decomposition don't show up in the measurement kits, nor TDS. Therefore I reassert the common advice to feed in a dish and remove the extra food after a while. This is as opposed to grinding the food into a powder and spreading it everywhere.
(Bacter AE is ok)

Where I will go against the common advice of "shrimp like stable conditions" is if the water gets polluted, then friggin change it out! (But do it slowly) This is just my assumption, but I think new clean water is better than old dirty water. Also, do gentle gravel vac to get the debris out, because the left-over food bits are slowly emitting pollution.

Thanks @beanbag-- great stuff here...

I went in on sponge filters and slowly figured out some sponge filters are better than others.

The single sponges that have a base that rests on the bottom like these https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquari.../dp/B0051XIN78 have to be completely removed from the tank and disassembled to clean. Huge hassle. I have a box of them as well as many smaller nano/corner versions that I no longer use.

The dual sponge make maintenance easier. Sponges can be removed without removing the rest of the hardware. Clean alternating sponges to ensure healthy bacterial colony isn't lost.
On top of that there are sponge filters that have compartments for media, which negates the chemical filtration argument.
https://www.amazon.com/QANVEE-Sponge.../dp/B07GY4L8H8
I don't use them for chemical, I just toss in regular biomedia so I can swap out sponges with completely new ones without having to worry about loosing all the bacteria.

Here's one: if you ever turn off your filter, check inside before turning it on. I've shredded quite a few shrimps by accident....

Even for canister filters if you turn it off, the shrimp will swim into the tubes and down into your canister.

Anyone else have some shrimping advice?

I dont sorry but thank you for making this thread @Discusluv
This should be a sticky moderators

Bump

I think the basics have been covered so I'll add a few thoughts about breeding. If you want a certain color, just get a group of that. Down the road you may want to get more of this same type and color to add some genetic diversity, but adding new colors can really cause headaches. While red and blue make purple when mixing paints, it can equal clear or brown when mixing those colors of Neocaridina. If keeping neos, there are tigers, tangerine tigers and such that can do well in their parameters that won't interbreed with them. If you grow up any shrimp that are just absolutely not what you want to see in your tank, get them out. The wild types seem to breed more true than the selectively bred colors and you can have a tank full of undesirable ones in time. But if you set up a cull tank or two, they do occasionally throw something really neat! I stare at my culls tanks probably more than my "real" shrimp tanks.

Almost any fish without a sucker mouth will eat shrimp fry. A few might make it to adulthood in larger tanks that are densely planted but if your goal is to produce shrimp, it's really best to go fishless. And fish that do have a sucker mouth largely feed on the same things they do, so even they are of limited use in a shrimp tank. I do understand that most people only have one or two aquariums and probably want fish in them, but I'm just saying for maximum benefit of the shrimp.

Most baby fish I've raised require constant feeding and water changes. Baby shrimp are almost the exact opposite, those are the things that can kill them. But while babies are sensitive, they survive being moved to other tanks (as well as surviving shipping) better than adult shrimp. I've seen people leave negative feedback because the shrimp they bought were small, but that's really what you want. Drip acclimation is considered the best route for moving them from one tank to another regardless of age.

Those baby foods like Bacter EA and Om Nom are great, but a little it goes a long way. Think about what a tiny morsel of food 25 adult shrimp get fed, then consider 25 babies that are less than 1% of an adult's mass. It's such a tiny, tiny amount that you almost feel like you aren't giving them anything. But the size of the stomach on something the size of a speck must be near-microscopic.

Somehow I missed this--- great tips!

I need to read through this again. Feeling a bit confused.
Thank you all for contributing to this thread and helping out us newbies.
Any more advice/tips havbe to share to the community? ~ please do.

Bump:
I missed this the first time around lol-- one of my absolute favorite TV programs right now.

Well, I binged watched this season already in 2 days, so now I have to wait until next year for next season...Such engaging characters...