Buying and Acclimating Shrimp Help - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Buying and Acclimating Shrimp Help

Hey guys, I have set-up my 120-gallon planted tank two weeks ago. The cycling process will be ending soon and the first things I want to add are shrimp. I am thinking of adding 60 Amano shrimp and 20 Red Cherry shrimp. Would that be enough to take care of tank? Would 20 Red Cherry shrimp breed quickly? I will probably be buying them from FlipAquatics. Any thoughts on this retailer?

I have read that shrimp have to be drip acclimated in order to adapt to the aquarium. I do not have a problem with doing this process, but would the ammonia kill them? Is there a way to neutralize it? I have Seachem Prime which says to protect the fish. Should I use that? Also, how long should I drip acclimate them for?

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 01:52 PM
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As far as drip acclimation, I'd ask the vendor for GH, KH and pH of the tanks he's raising those shrimp in. Are you running tap or RO? If running RO, just adjust your parameters to match and plop and drop. I did this with my latest batch of RCS, everyone is doing great, females were almost all saddled in about a week of introduction to the tank. If running tap, if your parameters are pretty close you should be alright. Others may disagree with my approach, but I've never had an issue plopping and dropping my shrimp. If we were talking CRS, a different route maybe better, but RCS and Amano are both pretty hardy.

Prime will bind the ammonia, making it harmless to the shrimp. I'd add a drop at most to the water they come in as Prime will bind O2 once it runs out of ammonia and chlorine to bind(obviously there won't be any chlorine in the bag though). If you really want to drip acclimate them, I'd just do it for a few hours.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:20 PM
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I would probably let the tank age a couple more weeks to build up a little biofilm and algaes but other than that, you should be fine adding them. As mgeorges stated, it's not necessary to drip acclimate these species but I do anyways. An hour worth of dripping would be more than enough. Flip Aquatics is a very reputable vendor. They are one of the few that quarantine their imported shrimp for a month before selling them. I've purchased Taiwan Bees from them and they all arrived alive and well in breather bags.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:23 PM
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"Would 20 Red Cherry shrimp breed quickly?" - in my experience 2 will breed quickly. i had a 29 gallon a while ago that was heavily planted with loads of predators (angles and rams). I through in a few RCS one time, and I always assumed them were eaten, but every time I cleaned my filter I found tons.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:34 PM
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If you want to drip acclimate, make sure you have a calibrated TDS meter. Once your tank water matches the acclimating water, you can net and dump into tank.

Flip Aquatics sells both imports and home bred. I would recommend getting the homebred Neos - avoid imports. Amanos are almost always imports and no worries there!


Do not introduce shrimp into your tank until it shows 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and low (or 0) nitrates. A water change may be required prior to introducing them. Also best to ensure that GH and KH values are within range for Neos.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoidburg View Post

Flip Aquatics sells both imports and home bred. I would recommend getting the homebred Neos - avoid imports. Amanos are almost always imports and no worries there!

They do have a few shrimps bred in USA but most of them are imports... even their neos. I don't see a problem with buying imports from Flip's because of their quarantine program. But yeah, generally stay away from imports if you have the option.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot, guys. I will buy something to check my TDS and if it is close, I will just plop and drop. Also, my gh is 4 and kh is 1 now. Would that be fine? Also, I have the Fluval FX4 filter which is not a sponge filter, is that ok?
Thanks
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GustavoMoura View Post
Thanks a lot, guys. I will buy something to check my TDS and if it is close, I will just plop and drop. Also, my gh is 4 and kh is 1 now. Would that be fine? Also, I have the Fluval FX4 filter which is not a sponge filter, is that ok?
Thanks
Minimum of 6 dGH, otherwise you may encounter molting problems. I'd raise KH to 3-4 dKH unless you have a buffering substrate, then don't worry about KH.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
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If you want to drip acclimate, make sure you have a calibrated TDS meter. Once your tank water matches the acclimating water, you can net and dump into tank..

How do you get the acclimating water to match your QT water...if this isn't the case?

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @mgeorges . Are there any easy ways to raise the gh and kh? I have seen some of the seachem ones but they seem kind of complicated. Also, should I start to raise gh and kh after the cycle finishes or while it is happening? About the filter intake, do you think the fluval fx4 is fine?
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 06:16 PM
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Equilibrium may do the job just fine for you, but it's pricey over the long haul. I remineralize my RODI water using MgSO4.7H2O for Magnesium, aka Epsom salt, and CaSO4.2H2O for my Calcium. I use sodium bicarbonate, aka baking soda, to raise my KH. I get my Ca and Mg from GLA(though nilocG also has it...I just like the fancy plastic jars from GLA lol) and I just buy bulk baking soda off Amazon. I use Rotalabutterfly.com's nutrient calculator to figure out how much of what I'm dosing in my tanks. I dose a 3:1 ratio Ca:Mg. For every 3 ppm Ca, you add 1 ppm Mg. For every 3 ppm Ca and 1 ppm Mg you add of those compounds, you're adding a total of 0.65 dGH.

A higher GH and KH may help the cycle by bringing pH up. The bacteria does best in mid to upper 7's. If you've got one handy, I'd also recommend adding an air stone. More oxygen is better for cycling! If not, just point your filters spray bar at the surface for maximum agitation.

I'm not familiar with Fluval's, I run Eheim filters. I THINK, but could be wrong, that the FX4 might be a little small for a 120. If we're talking about the intake itself, I would put a fine plastic mesh around it or throw a sponge on there to keep any future babies from getting sucked in. Sponge is higher maintenance, but my shrimp love to feed on the sponge since it collects lots of goodies.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @mgeorges . I think I will buy yhe equillibrium. Does it matter which bahing soda I use for the kh? How much should I use and how often? Do I add both after water changes? The filter is rated for up to 250 gallons with a 700gph flow plus the two 1150gph power heads I have. Is that fine?
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 07:41 PM
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Baking soda is NaHCO3. Rotalabutterfly has this in the calculator, you'll select "Dose to reach a target", and just type in what you want your KH to be. It'll tell you what your dose should be. I just buy the Arm & Hammer baking soda in the 4lbs boxes. I buy a 3 pack, it's pretty cheap, but as long as you're getting pure NaHCO3, it doesn't matter which one.
I do all my calculations based on my 5 gallon buckets, since I fill those and add them to my tanks. I dose 2.04 grams into ~4.5 gallons of RODI to get a KH of 4, for example. You'll only use it at water changes, as with Equilibrium. Add it to your water though BEFORE adding it to the tank, otherwise you could cause osmotic shock in your livestock, leading to death. This would be a much greater concern doing a water change with pure RODI, but I still would have your water pre-mixed before adding.
If that 700 gph rating is with media, then you should be alright. I have a feeling though that they rate the gph based on an empty canister. With the canister loaded, that will be significantly lower. We typically aim for 10x water turnover per hour, so that's close. I won't say it'll be a problem, but you may want to setup a second filter to make up the difference. Or, just wait and see how it goes.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I will be buying the baking soda and equilibrium today. @mgeorges This tank is really big and I just put water in directly from the sink. I cant be filling tons of buckets and adding the equilibrium and soda. Would I be able to to add half the dose before adding wate and the other half after? I usually change 50% of the water and that fills up pretty quickly. A little off topic, should I do water changes during the cycling process?
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 09:45 PM
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I do water changes during cycling when nitrates get above 20 ppm. I've been told that when you start getting to 40 ppm and above, your cycle will drastically slow down. How accurate that is, I have no idea, but I've always just gone with it. I'd do a large water change and then re-dose ammonia to get back to 2-3 ppm.

Yeah, filling 5 gallon buckets individually for a 120 gallon might be kind of a pain...but a great workout!! haha. I've never had to deal with that scenario...I imagine if you do it in thirds you may be fine. So guesstimate when you've added 20 gallons back in, then add the dose of Equilibrium and NaHCO3, and do this twice more at 40 and 60. This might be TOTAL overkill, but you really don't want big parameter swings with shrimp. You could do the math to figure out how badly your GH and KH would swing with a 50% water change when you've added 25% back. Maybe it won't be too great to just do it twice?
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