CRS requirements? - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 07:00 AM
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Check what your parameters are first before you decide on anything to see what shrimp you can already keep with your water and what you would need to do to your water to keep other types. Shrimp can adapt outside of the preferred parameters that we see for them online, but for a first forray into shrimping I would play it as safe as possible.


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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 07:15 AM
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Check what your parameters are first before you decide on anything to see what shrimp you can already keep with your water and what you would need to do to your water to keep other types. Shrimp can adapt outside of the preferred parameters that we see for them online, but for a first forray into shrimping I would play it as safe as possible.


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You'll also want to find out what the breeder/seller's parameters are. It's possible to find CRS bred in (and thus acclimated to) KHs over the "usual" range of 0-1 and higher pH and GH levels as well. Getting shrimp bred in parameters close to your own makes it easier to acclimate them to your water and for a higher chance of survival.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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You'll also want to find out what the breeder/seller's parameters are. It's possible to find CRS bred in (and thus acclimated to) KHs over the "usual" range of 0-1 and higher pH and GH levels as well. Getting shrimp bred in parameters close to your own makes it easier to acclimate them to your water and for a higher chance of survival.
Oh okay. Well I think just do to their KH and GH needs in out of the running for CRS because I live in Florida and our water has super high KH. is about 8 pH. I've gotten the pH down naturally to 6ish for my blackwater tank, but it was still relatively hard water. And I currently don't have any GH testing but I'm assuming that would be high too.
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Last edited by EmeraldAlkaline; 06-04-2017 at 03:44 PM. Reason: typo
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 03:38 PM
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I don't think I've ever seen a watermelon fish tank before. Do take pics!

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think I've ever seen a watermelon fish tank before. Do take pics!

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LOL meant to say just water, haha. though if there's such thing as a watermelon fish it sounds very interesting!
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Current Fish tanks:
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4 gallon cube: Male Halfmoon Plakat Betta
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-21-2020, 04:16 PM
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i have a quick questions. I kept my crs in fluval stratum with ro water and bee shrimp mineral. Lately i removed the fluval stratum because it got old and i exchanged it with regular substrate that doesnt buffer. I did this because i got tired of changing the vacuuming and cleaning it was a mess. With fluval my ph was at 6.2. Obv my ph is going to be much lower sinze ro water water and bee shrimp mineral doesnt have any kh. Here comes my question, To keep my ph stable around 6.2 without buffering substrate, can i use salty shrimp gh kh and bee shrimp gh together to add about .5 kh to keep my ph stable? What do you guys think? Ive dont the math and 25ppm of gh+kh and 100ppm of Gh+ would give me .5 kh , gh 6, and tds 125. If i dont use the kh , my ph drops to under 5 and i prone to ph swing since there is no buffering substrate, do you guys think buffering substrate is all that necessary for crs to live and thrive?
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2020, 03:02 AM
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I'd say buffering substrate is necessary for most people keeping Crystals and Bees. Otherwise, there's no stability without resorting to adding kH to the water.

As far as substrate goes, you should never have to disturb substrate in a shrimp tank. Especially if it's clay or soil-based. Just gently clear the surface without messing anything up.

What's the volume of your tank? How old is the setup? How many shrimp do you have?

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i have a quick questions. I kept my crs in fluval stratum with ro water and bee shrimp mineral. Lately i removed the fluval stratum because it got old and i exchanged it with regular substrate that doesnt buffer. I did this because i got tired of changing the vacuuming and cleaning it was a mess. With fluval my ph was at 6.2. Obv my ph is going to be much lower sinze ro water water and bee shrimp mineral doesnt have any kh. Here comes my question, To keep my ph stable around 6.2 without buffering substrate, can i use salty shrimp gh kh and bee shrimp gh together to add about .5 kh to keep my ph stable? What do you guys think? Ive dont the math and 25ppm of gh+kh and 100ppm of Gh+ would give me .5 kh , gh 6, and tds 125. If i dont use the kh , my ph drops to under 5 and i prone to ph swing since there is no buffering substrate, do you guys think buffering substrate is all that necessary for crs to live and thrive?


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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2020, 03:16 AM
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hey , it is a year old 10 gallon tank with about 250 crystal reds in there. changing the substrate was a nightmare, a lot of baby shrimps died so i decided not to put activate substrate back in and went with the clay based inert substrate. I did the math with salty shrimp gh kh and add .5 kh worth of powder and the rest gh powder to get a total tds of 120. My tanks ph is stable at 6.4 so far with just the .5kh. Im testing it regularly and the ph hardly moves and im certain kh doesnt affect the shrimp. It seems like this is holding stable so i should be good right? No point to waste time and money going back to fluval if my parameters are good and stable? I dought someone comes and dumps fluval stratum in the creeks these shrimp live at, its all about the parameters... I hope im right...please give me some good news.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2020, 06:38 PM
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From what I've heard, which could easily be wrong, KH doesn't really help to stabilize pH until you are at at least 2-3 KH...


And no, people don't go dumping active substrate into creeks and rivers.... instead, they are naturally acidic due to tannins, humic acids, CO2, and other factors. A lot of decaying leaf and plant matter helps to lower the pH. These areas may also not haver a lot of minerals so the water is just naturally soft - especially if the areas are fed by heavy rains or an underground aquafer that doesn't really come into contact with a lot of minerals.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2020, 10:16 PM
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hey , it is a year old 10 gallon tank with about 250 crystal reds in there. changing the substrate was a nightmare, a lot of baby shrimps died so i decided not to put activate substrate back in and went with the clay based inert substrate. I did the math with salty shrimp gh kh and add .5 kh worth of powder and the rest gh powder to get a total tds of 120. My tanks ph is stable at 6.4 so far with just the .5kh. Im testing it regularly and the ph hardly moves and im certain kh doesnt affect the shrimp. It seems like this is holding stable so i should be good right? No point to waste time and money going back to fluval if my parameters are good and stable? I dought someone comes and dumps fluval stratum in the creeks these shrimp live at, its all about the parameters... I hope im right...please give me some good news.

In my experience if using ro water your reconstituted water with .5 kh will result in a ph of about 7.1/7.2. You would have to add other things to effect the ph which would likely be difficult to keep stable.


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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2020, 08:02 AM
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its been over a week now and ive been testing my ph twice a day and it stays right at 6.2 so far. I have about .5k in there with drift wood and some almond leaves. If this keeps up and stays stable then do you think i should stick with this vs redo my tank to introduce active substrate? I think i have found the perfect kh mixture for my specific tank mixture to stabilize the ph exactly where i want it. I just have to make sure to mix the same amount of salty shrimp gh and gh kh every time to keep my kh at .5 and also keep the same amount of almond leaves and not remove my drift wood. Am i missing something here or am i good ?
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-26-2020, 09:52 PM
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Iím struggling with the concept of different shrimp requiring such different parameters. People seem to be breeding in all sorts of parameters. Does anyone know what is different about their physiology on a cellular level that makes them respond so differently?
post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2020, 02:12 AM
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It can be anything from where they originate to how they are raised.

Some shrimp can do fine in acidic or alkaline water. Some simply do best in one and not the other.


Opae ula shrimp are a brackish species that likely would not survive in full saltwater nor freshwater... yet they probably live in the harshest environment possible as the salinity of their environment changes quite possibly every hour, depending on the weather for the day. Maybe it doesn't.

Amano and bamboo shrimp likely live in either brackish to soft freshwater. Their offspring get washed out to sea, being born as larvae or zoes. As the zoes morph back into adults, they must make the journey back to the home they were born in - which may include climbing up the side of water falls. This is likely why many people end up finding amanos out of their tanks - the amanos are looking for better or higher ground? Some sort of instinctual thing...

Where-as many Neos and "fancy" Caridinas live in streams that are made up of mostly rain water with some minerals, leaf litter and who knows what all organics.

Then we have the Sulawesi shrimp... many coming from ponds or lakes where the mineral content is higher. A few people mix Sulawesi and Neos together... one person even using Neo minerals to keep Sulawesi in. They are a Caridina species that do best in "Neo" or harder parameters.
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