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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2004, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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What now?

First a little background.
New tank set up about a month ago.
55gallon
2-3 inches eco complete substrate
220 watts pc lighting
pressurized c02 injection w/PH controller
tank was heavily planted on 8-13-04
(Cabomba, Glossostigma, Rotala Magenta, Diandra, Micro Sword,Ludwigia,Baby Tears)
Added fish on 8-26-04
(5 ottos, 2 clown loaches, 1 pleco,2 neons,1 rainbow shark, 1 pictus cat)
The loaches, cat, pleco, and shark came from another smaller temporary tank.

Current tank parameters using aquarium pharmceuticals test kit (red sea kit for p04)
n03-5/ n02-0/ ph 7.0/ kh 17 / gh 15/
amonia 0/ p04 .1 I know my c02 levels are high I will be decreasing the bubble rate today although my fish show no signs of stress.

Tap water parameters
n03-0/ n02-0/ ph 7.6/ kh 16/gh 18/
amonia 0/p04 .1

I do a 35% to 40% water change every 4 days.

Now my question:
My plants all appear to be growing well especially the cabomba and diandra but I have green water.
Not the pea soup green but just a tint of green. It does not appear to be getting worse but not better either. Oh, and my lights are on for 10 hours a day and I have not added anything to the water in the way of ferts yet. Should I? I have some Flourish. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Sorry for the long post.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2004, 05:59 PM
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dwsindy:

I'm by no means an expert as my tank is only just beginning to break in. It has been up and running for about 5 months. I believe the best tips I picked up from this site was to hold off on the ferts for a while and to pack the tank full of fast growing plants. I'm going to start adding fertilizers this weekend. I did not have any green soup but I did go through a period of hair algae and a few other types. I waited for all the algae to clear up before considering ferts.

Shay
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2004, 06:11 PM
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If you're reasonably sure that your plants have settled in, then it's about time to begin adding fertilizers. Begin by adding small amounts, of course, and then you may gradually increase. If you're not sure (if your plants haven't shown crazy growth with the CO2 and lights only), then it's probably not time to add the ferts; wait a few more weeks. At least, it seems this is the easiest method for me to judge when to begin fertilizing. There may be a more "scientific" approach....
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 05:01 AM
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You have any phosphate measurements?

Eric


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 01:15 PM
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a quick fix is to get a diatom filter. Usually some parameter is out of wack though like to much light or nutrients. Many tanks will get rid of this automatically with a few partial water changes.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-05-2004, 03:09 PM
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The worst mistake we can make with a new tank is slam it with a lot of watts...
That was the first thing that struck me in your post is the amount of lighting you have, thats a handful of watts to start a new tank on. Too many watts too early are a major contributor to green water onsets, actually any kind of algae.
Im not sure how you are wired up on the lights but it would help to back off to one set of those pc's for a bit, in this stage of your tank lighting can be an enemy.
Also, CO2 addition in high watts can actually starve a plant without the rest of the nutrients in proper levels. It will do more harm then good without the addition of macro's.

To solve GW problems we have 2 solutions... we need to remove it mechanically with a diatomaceous filter, or cut the light and the excess nutrient and let it cycle its way through.
Right now you are feeding it 4wpg.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Buck: I have 4 55 watt pc lights I could back off two of them for partial days I suppose. I just completed another 30% water change yesterday and added a micron cartridge to my hot filter and the tank is much clearer today. I have some diatom powder coming and will be adding it to the micron filter when it arrives.
I think I will just let everything ride for a couple more weeks and see how it turns out.
I do have an interesting side story however. Yesterday after testing my water I wanted to have my test results checked so I sent wife with a tank sample and a tap water sample to the lfs to be tested. The results were very strange to say the least. The PH for the tank and tap was identical 7.8. I suppose this could be true due to outgassing of the co2 but they read my nitrate level at 40 in the tank and 0 out of the tap. I immediately retested my water with my existing test kit and got the same results as earlier 0 and 0. Thinking that I could possible have a bad test kit I decided to go to another lfs and purchase another nitrate test kit and came up with the same results as my previous tests. I guess I won't have that store double check me again!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 01:07 AM
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Believe it or not I rely more on my LFS's kits then mine, they use theirs so often that they are fresher solutions. My kits are gettin old, I rarely test my tanks anymore because I have my dosing down to a science, I only test if plants are looking "tired".

As far as your PH goes I did notice that your gh/kh are on the higher side and not all that user friendly, it takes a lot more dissolved CO2 to get the desired levels then it does in softer water.
What ya using for a reactor ?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 04:55 AM
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Yup, fish store goes through theirs quite often since they do so many in a given week. The solutions don't sit around long enough to become "bad". I went through quite a few each week when I worked in one (sometimes 2+ in a given day).

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2004, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Buck,
Not sure what brand reactor I have. Output of HOT Magnum goes into top of chamber. C02 tube injects beside it with sponge block on bottom.
Oh and a side note about water testing. I found out the LFS uses the multi test strips where one dip tests all.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-07-2004, 05:24 PM
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I wouldn't rely too much on those test results that you're getting from your LFS if they're using those test strips (not the most reliable). I'd stick with results that you got from more reliable ones, such as red sea, la motte, etc.

Eric


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