Help with setup - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Help with setup

I hope to set up a 12 gallon long aquarium in my office this winter. I would like to make the planted tank something akin to a cross between a traditional dutch and iwagumi tank.

So far I have planned:

background: Ammannia gracilis and Crinum calamistratum
midground: Blyxa japonica
carpet: Hemianthus callitrichoides

Amano Shrimp (start with 5) and Celestial Pearl Danio (no less than 5 nor more than 7) and 1 male betta (white rose tail dumbo)

These are the current inhabitants of my 23 gallon bow front. They are looking forward to the move! Kids are loud, and these fish seem a little skittish when it is noisy.

Hardsape will be seiryu stone.

To this goal, my main interest is lighting. I really like and trust Fluval for almost everything. To date (knock on wood) nothing under their brand has ever failed me. Some have been less than convenient (Fluval 88 CO2 as an example), but none have been useless.

This is my shopping list:

12 gallon long Mr. Aqua Low Iron aquarium: Mr. Aqua Rectangular Frameless Low Iron Glass Aquarium Tank

Substrate: Fluval Statum (4.4 lbs)

Fluval Stratum - 4.4 lb

Filtration: Fluval 106 canister
Heater: Eheim Jager 50W

CO2: Fluval 88 for the immediate future (I have a spare laying in my basement)

Seachem Flourish Excel
Lighting: Here is where I struggle. I like Fluvial. I have always had good luck with Aquaclear filters, Fluval canisters, and anything with Hagen stamped on it. That said, on lighting I am torn. I want either the Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0:

Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Full Spectrum Performance LED 24-34 Inch

or the Finnex Planted + 24/7:
Please let me know:
1) What did I forget to get?
2) Fluval v. Finnex on light.
3) The Mr. Aqua aquarium is an odd duck in terms of size, just 35.4 inches in length. Will either the Finex or the Fluval 36 inch model attach to this aquarium with the standard legs?
4) Will the PAR of these lights just cook my plants? The depth is 9.4 inches. After 1 1/2 inches of substrate and 1/2 to 1 inch of air space between water and the rim, that puts my plants at most 8 inches below the light.
4) basement leftover CO2 system, or just use Excel for now.
5) What is a decent 12 oz (paintball canister sized) CO2 regulator with solenoid?

Edit: I should have mentioned that a large mat of Javamoss will be the shrimp transporter when the move happens, so I will inevitably have some java moss.

Edit II:
The PAR for the 24 (36) inch Fluval is 252 (267) at 6" and 107 (112) at 12", I would hazard a guess to low 200s range at the 8" mark that matters for my projected tank.

Fluval only comes in 24-34, and 36-48 inch models, the tank is 35.4, so neither technically fits. I have e-mailed Fluval for clarification. I will update this in case anyone else out there has similar considerations.

I cannot find PAR scores from the Finnex. The Finnex has a 30" model, but I also can't find the lens angle for the Finnex to determine whether at 2.5 inches above the water, there will be "dead zones".

Last edited by Akinra; 10-12-2015 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Oops! Forgot PAR. . .
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 12:42 AM
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The background plants are too large for your tank. A well grown Ammania stem can be 1/2" thick and the rosette 8" or larger across. Crinium are huge plants as well. Try Rotalas or red Ludwigia instead. Even regular hairgrass could grow to the surface of your planned tank!

Love this tank shape, have you read through the club thread? Should be lots of info on what plants and lights work well there.

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 02:23 AM
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The par is going to create an algae farm without pressurized co2,and a lot of it. I would use a finnex fugeray, they have par data somewhere on this forum, just Google fugeray par data.
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