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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Scorched Tank

Hello everyone. I have a 75 gallon tank that I have been battling BBA for over a year now. I have tried just about everything and now am at my wits end. It gets better then comes back bigger like it jaws mama. I am taking my fish and going to move them to another tank that I am establishing. After all life is removed I plan on adding 4 gallons of bleach and let it stand in the dark for 48 hours. That should be just a little over the 1 to 20 parts suggested for dips. My question is this going to kill this or do I do what my wife wants and convert it to a reptile tank? I would prefer keeping fishes after the bleach has cleared so to speak. Please give me your opinions on if I need to increase the amount of bleach or the length of time left in the tank. Also would you try to salvage the substrate or just ditch it? I know that this seems drastic, but after so long fighting it I just can't take it anymore. Thanks to all in advance.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 07:20 PM
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Wow.....I feel the frustration. I count my blessings I only deal with diatoms.

That being said, 4 gallons in a 75G sounds like overkill to my BBA-untrained mind. It sounds like you're planning on leaving the substrate in? Whatever you choose to do, just take care in choice of bleach as almost all have emulsifiers added nowadays to make it thicker and less prone to splashing. The cheaper, the better.

Have you considered Peroxide?

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 08:26 PM
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I would use no more than a cup of bleach, let sit overnight with filter running and then fill and drain several times followed by a double dose of Prime. Let sit overnight then drain and fill using Prime again.

Bleach goes a long way and the strength used for dipping assumes the plant will only be in contact with the bleach for a moment.

When I was a commercial fisherman we would add 1/2 cup of bleach to 2500 gallon seawater tanks to prevent bacteria forming on the fish. After a week and several thousand pounds of fish were added the water still reeked of bleach.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 09:30 PM
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I hear yah, I battle bba before it was a nightmare... i use algaefix, I overdosed it a little bit, the most affected plant that I have is my giant Anubias, in was engulfed by bba, so I took it out of the tank place in plastic container and overdosed it with algaefix for 4days, I managed to kill the bba but my Anubias suffered a little bit, it lost all leaves all was left was the rhizome, now it's okay, in my main tank bba was not complete gone but manageable.i bought 6 Siamese algae eater and they finish the job that I started. Now my tank is bba free!! :-)

I think the secret to making your SAE eat algae is don't feed them until the algae is gone.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 04:40 AM
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I am going threw the same problem I have 3 SAE should I get more to make them eat the BBA?

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 04:40 AM
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In a 29 gallon

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 06:03 AM
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Sounds like an old saying from Reef Central:

PBITAWA: pour bleach in tank and walk away.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jboone82590 View Post
I am going threw the same problem I have 3 SAE should I get more to make them eat the BBA?

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I never had much luck with my SAEs eating BBA. They will get pretty big so 3 will be plenty for that size tank.

Hydrogen peroxide in a syringe squirted on the BBA worked for me.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 07:08 AM
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It's always said on here that BBA is caused by more light than the available CO2 is adequate for. Algae starts from spores that you can't see so do whatever and the next time you get anything that comes in water be it plant or fish from a shop where they have the BBA in a tank and you will have it again if you haven't removed the cause of it.
Trying to grow high light plants in a tank without injected CO2 but having the light level jacked up is a good way to have this imbalance between light and CO2 that causes BBA.
Using a few random floating plants can help this. Anacharis/Hortworth for example.
But in a tank/w no injected CO2 the only true fix for BBA is to lower the light level.
After you get rid of it this will keep it from coming back.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 08:25 AM
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I am on board with Raymond, and would also suggest that lack of regular filter maint contributes as well.
After all,, the organic particulates and solid's that are drawn into the filter, remain there until you/I remove the material and clean it.
Too many folks I think believe that filter's only need serviced twice a year.
A blackout,plus reduced lighting intensity, along with stepped up maint,water changes,would go long way IMHO.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the input! As I said I have tried just about everything. I regularly check the filter. I keep it pretty clean mainly because my thought is the less debris in the filter the less strain on the motor and the longer the filter will last. Might be wrong, but that's why I do it. Again thanks to everyone who gave some input.

Jesse
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 03:32 PM
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Start over. dump, clean, rinse,
I have never thought bleach was a good idea. h202 has been my choice for quite a while.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 03:47 PM
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I also keep battling bba for a long time now. I decided to shut down my co2 and lower my fert dosing for now. I could never find the balance of the right amount of co2/light/fertz in the tank where bba wouldn't come back with vengeance.

Right now my tank is mostly clear of bba.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 10:58 PM
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Wow, 4 gallons of bleach? I use 7 or 8 gallons to shock my 15,000 gallon pool. I think you might be going a little high. I would think 4 ounces might be more like it.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 11:05 PM
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How will you keep the spores from returning? Somewhere I read that all of the types of algae we worry about are present is nearly all aquariums, whether or not they have an "algae problem". IF that's true (big if, b/c I have no source), then wouldn't the problem return once you setup the tank again?

Not to say I wouldn't be boiling/irradiating/bleaching/pulverizing the contents of the tank myself
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