How to "root" root tabs? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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How to "root" root tabs?

Is there a specific method/location to place them in?(underneath the plants, next to plants, depth inside substrate..etc), or do I just bury them evenly spread out?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 10:25 PM
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They won't spread out. I usually push them as deep as possible directly under the plant. If its a group of plants I'll stick them in between the plants.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 10:38 PM
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most would say do a grid type of lay out you. any heavy root feeders and i would put one right under that plant
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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most would say do a grid type of lay out you. any heavy root feeders and i would put one right under that plant
Would a carpet of dwarf hairgrass apply?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:42 PM
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Would a carpet of dwarf hairgrass apply?
Grid layout


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:42 PM
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Heres my tank. I did a grid on it. Every few inches i would stuff a tab down, 3 to 4 inches apart
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=880681

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Heres my tank. I did a grid on it. Every few inches i would stuff a tab down, 3 to 4 inches apart
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=880681

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Thanks, I see you are using co2. Is the amount of root tabs the same whether it's no co2 or with co2?(I'd assume it takes longer for root tabs to break down in a low tech tank)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmv4792 View Post
Thanks, I see you are using co2. Is the amount of root tabs the same whether it's no co2 or with co2?(I'd assume it takes longer for root tabs to break down in a low tech tank)
I assume it would make no difference. To me the co2 is just added goodness for the plants. But plants take in "food" through there roots and leaves so gotta have something good in the substrate first off.
Thats the only ferts i use. I dont do any water dosing. Not yet atleast.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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I assume it would make no difference. To me the co2 is just added goodness for the plants. But plants take in "food" through there roots and leaves so gotta have something good in the substrate first off.
Thats the only ferts i use. I dont do any water dosing. Not yet atleast.
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Got it. How would one go about burying root tabs once the floor is covered and established with carpet plants? Is there a way to insert them in that carpeting without causing damage? I'm assuming once all the root systems have taken hold in the substrate, there would be little room to insert tabs.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 12:34 AM
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Got it. How would one go about burying root tabs once the floor is covered and established with carpet plants? Is there a way to insert them in that carpeting without causing damage? I'm assuming once all the root systems have taken hold in the substrate, there would be little room to insert tabs.
Should still be able to shove them in if the roots are that dense under the substrate

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 12:52 AM
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If you use something small like Osmocote you can push them in, but your grid may not be perfect. That is OK, though. By the time the planting is so dense that it makes the placement tricky, the roots are all over the place.

The life span of plant tablets is variable.
Slow release tablets dissolve slowly. (duh) but only if the substrate is fairly dense, with just a little water movement.
If the tablet is in a gravel substrate then the water movement will wash away the fertilizer as it dissolves, so more of it dissolves faster. You can check this by testing the water. Whatever nutrients are in the tablet will show up, for example, NO3 test would rise, if there is NO3 in the tablet.
If the tablet is in a substrate with a high cationic exchange capacity then the nearby substrate will get saturated with the minerals, and act like a reserve, even after the tablet itself is gone. Plants can take the minerals away from the substrate, so at some point the minerals do get used up, but hopefully you have added more ferts before it becomes a deficiency problem.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 01:03 AM
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I use a syringe with the end cut completely off, I then load my osmocote capsule in the syringe and inject it deep into the substrate with minimal disturbance.

Last edited by The Big Buddha; 07-24-2015 at 01:05 AM. Reason: Grammar
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Diana
If the tablet is in a substrate with a high cationic exchange capacity then the nearby substrate will get saturated with the minerals, and act like a reserve, even after the tablet itself is gone. Plants can take the minerals away from the substrate, so at some point the minerals do get used up, but hopefully you have added more ferts before it becomes a deficiency problem.
I'm reading that the eco-complete I'm using counts as a high cationic substrate, so that's good.

Is there a way to test when the root tabs have all been used up without digging around the bottom?

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I use a syringe with the end cut completely off, I then load my osmocote capsule in the syringe and inject it deep into the substrate with minimal disturbance.
I'll be looking into osmocote capsules since everyone is talking about them, but for now I need to finish up these seacheam tablets.
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