Ich? Help:( - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 235
Ich? Help:(

As if I haven't already had a hard enough time trying to get my tank running, I noticed today that both my rams have a couple white spots on them. What meds are safe to use in a planted tank?

I don't have a quarantine tank yet (I know, shame on me) ironically, I was planning to get one in a few days when petco does their $1 per gallon sale.

Can I treat for the ich in my big tank (since I want to make sure my other fish don't get it) or will it kill my plants?
Sarraa is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 11:03 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
goodbytes's Avatar
 
PTrader: (3/100%)
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fort Myers, Florida
Posts: 1,107
One way to treat ich without quarantining or dumping a bunch of meds into your tank is to turn up the heat gradually to 86F. Supposedly the Ich parasites cannot reproduce at 85F and above. However, the amount of oxygen that can exist in solution is inversely proportional to water temperature so you'll need to up the surface agitation considerably. Throw a bunch of airstones in there if you have them and lower the water level to increase the amount of agitation from your existing filters. This is risky but supposedly effective.
goodbytes is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 235
Thank you!

My poor fish he has it the worst. The other ram just has 1 spot that I can see.

I'm buying a bigger heater tonight at work, the one I have will only do 78 on a good day. So Im gonna buy one tonight and start the process of trying to get rid of it through heat. My water level is down about an inch and a half already (because of evaporation) so if I add an air stone I should be okay? Should I keep CO2 off as well then?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image_1435189109070.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	490513  

Sarraa is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 11:44 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: the desert
Posts: 541
Turning the heat up and increasing the oxygen is pretty effective and adding some salt also helps although plants are not such big fans of either of those things. A quarantine tank is a good thing to have since it is far cheaper to treat a small tank than a large one, and it helps to put new livestock in there for observation before adding to your big tank.

Local fish stores used to routinely quarantine their new stock and you would see many tanks that were dark or had "hold" written on them but sadly that seems to be a thing of the past and often I see fish being sold that were just unpacked from the shipper hours or even minutes earlier.

Having a hospital tank can certainly make life less stressful and does not take a lot of extra effort. Just keep a fish or 2 in there to keep the bacteria established.
keymastr is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 12:05 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
Q-tank does not actually have to keep a big population of bacteria going, since usually you will be keeping a very light stocking level. Floating plants, and a bit of media from a cycled tank when you set up the Q-tank is all you really need for ammonia control.
Diana is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 03:04 AM
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 40
Kordon Ich Attack and Ruby Reef Kick Ich are both safe for planted aquariums and wont stain silcone.
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 03:29 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
lksdrinker's Avatar
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: NY; LETS GO METS
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by keymastr View Post
Turning the heat up and increasing the oxygen is pretty effective and adding some salt also helps although plants are not such big fans of either of those things. A quarantine tank is a good thing to have since it is far cheaper to treat a small tank than a large one, and it helps to put new livestock in there for observation before adding to your big tank.

Local fish stores used to routinely quarantine their new stock and you would see many tanks that were dark or had "hold" written on them but sadly that seems to be a thing of the past and often I see fish being sold that were just unpacked from the shipper hours or even minutes earlier.

Having a hospital tank can certainly make life less stressful and does not take a lot of extra effort. Just keep a fish or 2 in there to keep the bacteria established.
Having a hospital or quarantine tank is always a great idea. But once you see ich on a fish in a tank then that whole tank essentially has ich. This is why you should be very careful when buying fish from any store that uses a centralized filter system. One filter system feeding various tanks means that if you see ich on only one fish in one tank there is a strong possibility that any and ever fish within that system can carry ich back into your tank at home.

I picked up a few more rummy nose from the LFS the other day and since the guys were all active and swimming I didnt notice they had ich until they were in my tank for about 2 days. I'm ramping my heat up to the 88-90 degree mark in an effort to combat that now. I've honestly never tried the heat treatment before and have had luck with products intended to treat/kill ich but decided to try this approach first this time.

Rich's Fishes
Curator of an ever growing fishroom that currently houses 30 different tanks. Most full of at least water....some even have fish!
lksdrinker is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 235
Thank you for all your replies! I really appreciate it!

I've got the heat up to about 84 right now, gonna bump it a couple more degrees throughout the day. I also went ahead and got a bottle of kordons ich attack today. I wasn't planning on putting meds in there and just trying the heat method, but I woke up to a neon dead (who I've had for a month with no issues, and didn't have a spec of ich on it last night) not sure why she died, but I decided I want to kick this ich in the butt before I lose anyone else. I am also keeping my CO2 off for now (not sure if this is actually necessary) and I have a big bubbler on it pumping in oxygen. We'll see how this goes!

Thanks again for all your input guys!
Sarraa is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:25 AM
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Central MA
Posts: 241
API Super Ich Cure is cheap and works super fast. The few times my fish contracted a case in my planted tank I used Super Ich Cure and it was wiped out within a day or two. Your investment of plants and fish is probably worth the $7 the Super Ich Cure costs. When you transplant fish from another tank you really have to take the time to make sure the water temperature is the same before you let the fish go or Ich will almost always result.

75 gallon planted low tech
10 gallon quarantine planted low tech
5 gallon planted (sons) low tech
Plant heavily, fertilize well, stock lightly, change water weekly, and most importantly do not use too much light.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Jcstank is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 235
Thank you JC! I thought about using that one before I purchased the ich attack, but wasn't sure if it was safe for plants. I knew the kordons brand was so just opted for that one.

This course of treatment seems to be working rather quickly! Last night before lights out my ram looked so much worse, with 3X as many white spots. I thought for sure I was gonna lose him this morning. But he was acting fine, which was weird. Never lost his spunk or appetite the whole time. I just turned the lights on and am relieved to say about 95% of the spots are gone. And I'm not seeing any spots on anyone else! So happy about that!
Sarraa is offline  
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 08:35 PM
Ram Breeder
 
matt13's Avatar
 
PTrader: (94/100%)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Palatine, IL
Posts: 76
Sarraa- It can be lethal if not held in check. It is harder to kill with other tropical fish that cannot withstand the higher water temps. The normal way (in cooler temps) to treat it is with a copper based medication. The life-cycle of the Ich parasite can be as long as 10 days or so. I'm not sure how much you know about the disease, so please forgive me if I'm telling you stuff you already know.

The spots you see are actually the cycst (adult) form of the disease. These spots are actually under the skin of the fish, and there's nothing you can do to "kill" the spots. This is the adult stage of the parasite, and once you see the spots, you know the fish are infected. Once the cysts reach full size, they fall off the fish to the bottom of the tank where they rupture, and spend several hours to days reproducing (by cell division). The smaller parasites (invisible to the eye) will develop tails and begin to actively swim about the tank looking for a new host. It is only when they are in this stage of the life cycle that they can be killed. Once they find a host (your fish) they attach themselves and begin feeding off the fish where they develop into the white spots you see, and they whole cycle begins again.

As I mentioned, water temps play a huge role in the life cycle of the parasites. With water temps in the 60s or 70s, the life cycle can take a couple of weeks. With temps around 85, in can be just a matter of a couple of days. There is a bunch of info out there that states that the free-swimmers cannot live with temps above 85 degrees. Like I said, the best course of action is to raise the temps up to just above 85, and leave it there for a week to 10 days. That should take care of the Ich throughout your entire tank.
matt13 is offline  
post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 235
Thank you for the info Matt!
I knew some of that but didn't know all of it, so I appreciate you taking the time to explain it so clearly

So I'm assuming that if I'm not "seeing" any spots on my fish I should be in the clear of my other fish getting it if my water temp is raised? It's about 85 right now, everyone actually seems to be enjoying the warmer water. I know that the parasite will still be living in the substrate and/or water column, but if my temp is higher the parasites should die before finding a new host, right?

If I'm wrong I apologize, I'm still new to all of this and am definitely learning the hard way why it's so important to have a QT haha
Sarraa is offline  
post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 10:35 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
TurtleShark's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 560
I have some siamese algae eaters in a quarantine right now. I know where I buy from has ick in each of their tanks so the very minute I bring them home I start treatment. Usually I will do 86 degree water for a week, lower it and see how everything goes for the next two weeks. If (and it hasn't happened yet) the ick were still there it should show itself by those two weeks. These fish, though, are being put through a medicated treamtent because my adjustable heater is currently in use for fry.

Whenever I miss the ick or decide to take my chances and not treat right away and the ick gets bad before I notice it a salt dip helps. It's basically 1 to 3 teaspoons of aquarium salt mixed into one gallon of tank water. I move the worst fish to the bucket for 3 minutes then put them back into the tank. I'm not sure if it does anything but I think it helps. Then I'll raise the water temperature.

My main problem with the heat method is, once you let the ick get far enough along, it doesn't kill the ick. It just speeds them up. So any eggs in the tank, and free swimming ick in the water will attach to the fish that much faster. That's why I always catch it early. I've lost a few fish by not treating right from the start...
TurtleShark is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome