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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hello!

Hi everyone!

So i'm going to break down my tank, and then go over some quick questions.


Tank: Fluval Spec V (5 Gallon -Black-)

Lighting: Current Satellite LED Plus 18"

Equipment: Grreat Brand 7.5 Watt Aquarium Heater (Located in the Pump Chamber of the Fluval Spec, just above the water pump.)

API Master Freshwater Test Kit

Digital Thermometer (probed into main tank behind and under flow pipe near substrate)

Mopani Driftwood (boiled numerous times before entry and scrubbed down before every boil)

Substrate: Petco Brand Black Sand substrate

Fertilization: Flourish (Once a week) Flourish Excel (Every other day, 1 ml)

Plants: Anacharis (Egeria densa) Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae) Marimo Ball (Aegagropila linnaei) Amazon Sword (Echinodorus bleheri)

Inhabitants: 3 Zebra Danios

Pictures:






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Questions:
1. Does the Current Satellite LED Plus provide enough low-medium light for this size aquarium?

2. I'm starting to get little bit of white-fungus/hair on the driftwood. I'm assuming this is normal and I know a few people have had issues with the Mopani doing this. Any comments would be great.

3. My Amazon Sword is starting to decay or change colors on the leaves. I'm thinking its probably a macro-nutrient problem. Could it perhaps be a light problem? I pulled it up and it seems to be making new roots, and they are really white and healthy.. bit confused

4. I have a custom light setting on the Current LED that is Max-Whiteness and Max-Redness. I head that Red is a good color for photosynthesis. Is this a good idea, I tried looking for answers from Current but they seemed to be aesthetic answers.

5. My water is high in pH. Its very Alkaline about 7.6 for pH and around 7.4 for High pH. Would doing water changes with RO water help this? I live in San Antonio and our water is really hard. I need some suggestions.

6. I replaced my normal charcoal filter in my Fluval Sponge Brick for a Seachem Purigen filter. I figure this owuld be a good way to soak up those reamining tannins. Comments?

7. My tank runs around 74-76 F. Its because of the LED Light right above it. I have a heater that runs during the night as it gets colder. Should these temperature be okay for my plants? I hear the Anacharis like cooler water..

8. Speaking of Anacharis, I got mine from Petco which i know can be kinda dubious, but they looked healthy, now they are slowly becoming transparent on the leaves. Is this a water-light-nutrient problem? I read somewhere that these plants can shed most of their body and basically have to adapt to your new aquarium.. Is this true?

9. Will Java Moss do good in this habitat tied around the driftwood?



Thanks in advance, look forward to meet y'all
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:24 AM
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I'm still learning here and feel like I get more help than what I am able to give out here, but I can answer your no 3: your sword needs root fertilizers (osmocote tabs).
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Matthew RJ View Post
I'm still learning here and feel like I get more help than what I am able to give out here, but I can answer your no 3: your sword needs root fertilizers (osmocote tabs).
Thank you Matthew!
Are these specific fertilizer tabs? Can they be used in my black sand substrate?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:40 AM
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I don't see why the substrate would make a difference with root tabs, but you may want to get a second opinion from someone more knowledgeable.

The osmocote tablets can be a DIY project. I ordered some from a member here. There are brand name root tablets, but you will pay more
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:55 AM
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Idk if he would really need the root tabs because that soil should be pretty rich with nutrients for a little while, and since you are doing low light to much nutrients can cause algae problems I believe.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 03:57 AM
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1. Prob medium/high light
2. Completely normal, algae eaters love it, will go away or can scrub but will return until done
3.root tabs are definately needed for the sword
4.red is good for photosynthesis. If you can you may way to dial back the light with no co2, your plants are also all low light plants
5.ro would help but that ph is fine, gh and kh are more important to know
6.purigen is great, read up on recharging it
7.those temps are fine for the plants and your fish
8.read up on fertilizer and estimated index. Plants need fertilizers not supplied by tap water and fish food. Petco sand contains no nutrients. Your current dosing may not be cutting it. Understand what ferts are needed and compare to what's in flourish.
9.java moss grows good anywhere there is water

If in doubt, add more plants!

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 04:00 AM
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy View Post
1. Prob medium/high light
2. Completely normal, algae eaters love it, will go away or can scrub but will return until done
3.root tabs are definately needed for the sword
4.red is good for photosynthesis. If you can you may way to dial back the light with no co2, your plants are also all low light plants
5.ro would help but that ph is fine, gh and kh are more important to know
6.purigen is great, read up on recharging it
7.those temps are fine for the plants and your fish
8.read up on fertilizer and estimated index. Plants need fertilizers not supplied by tap water and fish food. Petco sand contains no nutrients. Your current dosing may not be cutting it. Understand what ferts are needed and compare to what's in flourish.
9.java moss grows good anywhere there is water

Thanks!

How much light should i use? Like should i do 10 hours... or something? Also how badly does my aquarium cover affect the lighting, theres a nice size rectangle that can let a lot of light through, but if you're saying i am getting too much light should i put this back on and allow the plants like 8-10 hours of light?

Too much light = more nutrient absorption. The problem i have is i don't use CO2. So like will buying macro plant supplements and Flourish Excel help this?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 12:00 PM
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5-8 hours is a normal photo period to avoid algae.
Measure the distance from your substrate to your light and the manufacture should list a PAR value. Low light is below 30ish. High light is above 50ish. Which i would imagine I'd where u are at that height. Your cover if clean should not affect light values that much.
Current lists light values at 12" of 36 par which isn't too high, and 28 par at 18", which is in my opinion the height you should aim for to avoid a headache with algae. I would guess you are at 10" with a par value of around 40ish, just guessing. if you cannot dim the light I would raise it with brackets or hang it.

Yes, more light equals more nutrient absorption up until a single nutrient becomes deficient, which without co2 being added usually leads to bad algae problems. Light sets the speed at which plants grow. Too fast a speed and co2 runs low and algae takes hold. This is also true of any other nutrient becomes limiting. This is why estimated index dosing is popular. There are several primers you should read in both the nutrient and lighting section of this forum.
The more you read, the less trouble you will have.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184368
In the next thread dark blade wrote a good primer which is essential to beginners.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=107303
If in doubt, add more plants.

If in doubt, add more plants!

My not-enough-plants-but-not-enough-space-to-put-anymore-so-will-start-going-up-box-of-water.

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Last edited by jeepguy; 02-08-2015 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Edit
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