Quarantine tanks and other tanks - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quarantine tanks and other tanks

I have a 40 breeder up and running with some cory cats. Now I'm trying to decide what else I want to put in the tank and how to get them in. Would a 10 gallon quarantine tank be enough for juvenile pearl gourami if they had enough hiding places? How big of an aquarium can I fit on my dresser? It's solid wood, but it's not the world's greatest dresser. Also I have some plants coming in the mail, but I don't know if I want to use the 5 gallon that I was going to put some of them in.

In my fantasy world I would eventually have a planted 20H on my dresser, a 10 gallon qt/hospital tank that could be set up and torn down, and my 5.5 on a shelf that doesn't exist yet. I have my own room at my parents' house and when I eventually move out I'll probably have either a studio or a very small 1 bedroom apartment.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:53 PM
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Quarantine:
That should be fine. You don't need much in your quarantine tank. It's best to not use a substrate and minimal decor. You can use some pic pipes cut small for hiding spots if you feel they are necessary.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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I'm mostly suffering from the 'I can't make up my mind' problem that has been plaguing me since I started back up.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 02:46 AM
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Quarantine for Pearl Gouramis should include some floating plants. They do not do caves, and usually do not swim very low in the tank.

5 gallon or 10 gallon is probably OK on old furniture- some of it was very well made.
I would question a 20 gallon on something not made for aquariums. The support is probably in the wrong place and whatever surface is on the top of the dresser could start to collapse.

Very rough ballpark: 10 lbs per gallon.
so 5-10 gallon: Could a child stand on the dresser? Probably.
20 gallon: could an adult stand on the dresser?

I did this with a long, low dresser, and the legs were wide apart (outer corners, nothing in the middle) and it sagged. I put more tanks on a desk that has 8 legs (some in the middle) and the desk is fine.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 03:28 AM Thread Starter
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I attempted to refinish the dresser myself (I got one of the more brightly colored finishes and it ended up being a horrible streaky dye that I had to paint over). It's solid wood with a very thin veneer. I think you're right that a 10 gallon is the maximum safe size. I guess I was hoping that someone would goad me into getting a larger tank. If pearl gourami are fine in a 10 gallon for quarantine, then I don't have a reason to get a larger tank and I don't have a place to put it anyway.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 03:50 AM
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I would like to make a some comments regarding your QT idea; I may get some slack for it but oh well.. its an open forum

My opinion is that the way you are talking about setting up a QT would most likely do more harm then good. You may be wondering why I say these crazy things, so let me explain.

We all know as a tank develops it becomes more and more stable and the ecosystem evolves into much more than just tap water with fish in it and a bit of dechlor. With that said, a QT tank that gets setup and taken down regularly will not come close to the quality of the main tank in this regard.

Second point, to truly quarantine a fish to ensure its healthy the common 2-4 weeks is a joke. If you look at any major public aquariums and ask how long they QT their new stock before it goes into their system you will be shocked at the amount of time. so in order to replicate this you would need to QT for multiple months, in which case you tank should be fully cycled and meet all the size requirements for the fish you are quarantining.

Another thing to consider is that your QT tank and your main tank will have different water parameters and all tanks hold pathogens in them. which means while the fish in QT may seem healthy and stress free once you have to catch him to move him he is now in some stress. then you move him to a completely new home with different water parameters; he is now more stressed trying to adjust to a change in environment. Lets say you have other stock in the main tank already and they have territories established. You new fish is now feeling lost and resorts to hiding in the back untill he/she feels comfortable enough to begin exploring. All of this is stressful, and while the stress will not kill the fish it will cause its immune system to note function at its full potential. this allows for diseases to take hold. your now once healthy fish shows signs of illness a week into its new home.

i have provided some links to show you that I am not the only one who thinks this way and that the idea of a QT is great but it must be done right . These are also great reads and will give you more insight to proper qt and how to avoid making common mistakes.

http://briansaquariumcare.com/quarantine.html
http://www.angelsplus.com/ArticleQuarantine.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume...Quarantine.htm

Can quarantine tanks be a good thing? HELL YES. BUT they must be done right. and a 5g / 10g for pearls is never going to be considered right. most people would not keep fish in either of these tanks long term, therefore they are not suited for a qt tank.

Hospital tanks are different story and a 5-10g is fine. tanks can be torn down and should be torn down right after treatment. but thats a different topic.


I hope I have shed a bit of light into the topic.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipraposo1982 View Post
I would like to make a some comments regarding your QT idea; I may get some slack for it but oh well.. its an open forum

My opinion is that the way you are talking about setting up a QT would most likely do more harm then good. You may be wondering why I say these crazy things, so let me explain.

We all know as a tank develops it becomes more and more stable and the ecosystem evolves into much more than just tap water with fish in it and a bit of dechlor. With that said, a QT tank that gets setup and taken down regularly will not come close to the quality of the main tank in this regard.

Second point, to truly quarantine a fish to ensure its healthy the common 2-4 weeks is a joke. If you look at any major public aquariums and ask how long they QT their new stock before it goes into their system you will be shocked at the amount of time. so in order to replicate this you would need to QT for multiple months, in which case you tank should be fully cycled and meet all the size requirements for the fish you are quarantining.

Another thing to consider is that your QT tank and your main tank will have different water parameters and all tanks hold pathogens in them. which means while the fish in QT may seem healthy and stress free once you have to catch him to move him he is now in some stress. then you move him to a completely new home with different water parameters; he is now more stressed trying to adjust to a change in environment. Lets say you have other stock in the main tank already and they have territories established. You new fish is now feeling lost and resorts to hiding in the back untill he/she feels comfortable enough to begin exploring. All of this is stressful, and while the stress will not kill the fish it will cause its immune system to note function at its full potential. this allows for diseases to take hold. your now once healthy fish shows signs of illness a week into its new home.

i have provided some links to show you that I am not the only one who thinks this way and that the idea of a QT is great but it must be done right . These are also great reads and will give you more insight to proper qt and how to avoid making common mistakes.

http://briansaquariumcare.com/quarantine.html
http://www.angelsplus.com/ArticleQuarantine.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume...Quarantine.htm

Can quarantine tanks be a good thing? HELL YES. BUT they must be done right. and a 5g / 10g for pearls is never going to be considered right. most people would not keep fish in either of these tanks long term, therefore they are not suited for a qt tank.

Hospital tanks are different story and a 5-10g is fine. tanks can be torn down and should be torn down right after treatment. but thats a different topic.


I hope I have shed a bit of light into the topic.

Thanks, that's actually part of why I was looking at getting a 20 for quarantine. I've had a spare sponge filter in my 40 gallon for more than a month, but now I'm worried about moving back down to one filter. My water parameters are fine (ammonia, nitrite at zero and nitrate at trace amounts at most), but I've got some mulm at the bottom of the tank and I'm worried that one sponge filter might not be enough. The 5.5 was originally going to for a betta, but I'm not sure what to do with it or where to put it now.

Adding brand new fish that I know nothing about is worrying, but I guess LFS do it all the time. Either way, I should find a good way to start drip acclimating. I'm not in a rush to add things, I just want a tank that looks pretty with healthy fish. The plants handle most of the pretty part.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 03:07 PM
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On the tank and stand ?
The way the stand is built is only part of the question. Most old furniture will have solid wood legs and be reasonably well built for the purpose. How you fit the tank on them for the new purpose is very much a factor. To hold the weight, wood from top to bottom near or under the ends of the tank is important. Six foot long dresser with the tank in the middle and it will sag. But if you put the tank and weight over near the end of the dresser the weight is supported more directly by the wooden legs and all is fine. Tanks are much easier to support than they first look but it takes some thought on placement.

For QT I use the temporary tank method. What is done needs to be changed for the situation but for me keeping the tank in the closet works better. I do not intend to keep a fish in QT until ALL health problems would show. Only long enough for him to recover fully from the trauma of shipping, etc. and enough time for me to look him over carefully and let him get used to the new water. If we waited for ALL things to show, we would never move anything out of QT!!!
QT is not a guarantee, it is a reasonable time to access the risk. The small stress of moving a fish from one tank to another is meaningless compared to the trauma of hatchery, shipping, and new conditions.
But while it is not a guarantee, a lot of the value depends on the person watching over the QT. Done wrong, you simply kill the fish while watching obvious problems but done right, it can keep you from killing your entire stock. We each have to be honest about our ability and do the best we can.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 01:48 PM
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I like to keep a few hardy fish in my q/t. Such as zebra danio. They keep my bio/filter going and I use two q/t tanks and can move them back and forth as I need tank space.

About your dresser holding the tank Diana makes good point if you and friend can stand are sit on the dresser it will hold your tank.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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As a person who always likes to take half measures, I think I'll wait for the 10 gallon QT to be cycled properly, add the pearls straight to the 40 and put the smaller fish in 10 gallon tanks and monitor them closely.

The dresser is about 36 inches long. The whole thing is solid wood with half chipped off veneer.
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