cloudy tank need help - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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cloudy tank need help

Hey everyone I am having a problem with my tank being cloudy for some reason. It's weird cause its clear from the front and only cloudy from the sides. I have done a 50% water change. That didn't work so I got some clarify from my lfs good stuff that says it's clears all cloudy tanks no matter why it's cloudy and guess what they didn't work either. So now I am seeking out some help to find out what would cause this issue. Any ideas or suggestions would be great appreciated. I will post some pictures of it below.
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Last edited by cichliddude; 01-10-2015 at 07:11 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:15 PM
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Need more info. How long has said tank been running? Filtration? Water parameters? Livestock, feeding?
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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The tank has been running for about a week now. It's a freshwater tank with a little bit of salt in it. I have three live plants in my tank right now with 4 cichlids and 3 goldfish I only feed twice a day and only what they will eat in a 2 to 3 minute time frame. I did test strip and everything is in the safe zone for what the bottle says and ammonia test is good too. I took my water to my lfs they said everything was right on as well. This isn't a brand new tank it was a tank that was running for a long time then took down for awhile and now it's back up again using all the old equipment. I have a marineland 200 the bio filter is the one used before but I have brand new media filters in there as of when I started the tank back up.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 08:37 PM
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The tank is starting to cycle. Most often cloudy water in a freshly set up tank is a bacterial bloom. That is the least of the upcoming issues your going to have. As the tank goes through the cycle, you will have several spikes. Ammonia, then Nitrite, and finally Nitrate. The first two will kill fish.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 08:47 PM
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Foster's right. You should ditch the test strips as they have proven to be inaccurate. I hope you weren't dipping them into your tank. Get you a liquid test kit such as the API freshwater master kit. You'll need to watch your ammonia and nitrite levels closely and change enough water(adding dechlorinator) to keep them below 1ppm. No level of ammonia of nitrite is good for fish. Just be vigilant.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Should I do water changed pretty often right now if it is going thru the cycle? I've been using stability and it's suppose to prevent new tank syndrome.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I will get a liquid test kit and no I wasn't dipping them into the tank.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 09:44 PM
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Both Foster and Clayman offer good advice!
Never dip strips in tank as you are dipping the chemicals(some don't even want down their drain in your tank!Use a cup of tank water to dip in then dispose of water in cup "strip people".)
You are cycling so accurate test are very important.Get liquid(glass vial test).
Next get used to changing water during your fish in cycle(no more then 1ppm like Clayman said for either nutrient.).
Now FEED LESS!
Once a day at most!All food needs to be eaten in 2 minutes or less.
Many ideas are still in effect ,but IMO 99% of cloudy water is from overfeeding.
You certainly have a bacterial imbalance but many(myself for 30+ years) can/have /do cycle without ever having cloudy water.
Your fish if healthy will have no problem going 3-5 days inbetween feeding while you cycle,and this lower your water changes.
1 feeding in the next 3 days,Don't use the clarifier if you have not yet.It will do you no good.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks coral. I'll start doing my test a few times a day and track the readings. I'll also cut back on the feeding. When doing water changes I be doing a deep clean in the gravel or just a lite clearing but main just sucking down water to change out?
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 10:20 PM
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Only vacumm a part of the gravel if you don't see waste.
You could end up changing water everyday or close so you don't want to end up with nothing in your gravel.
Just taking out water and replacing with new will lower the nutrients.
The % of water changed is how much the nutrient will go down.
Example- 50 % water change will lower whatever by 1/2.

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I'll keep that in mind. If there anything I should add to the water if I have to do a lot of water changes to keep the nutrients up?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 10:53 PM
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Only use dechlorinator in your water(like prime or aqua nova..)
In my example "nutrients" are ammonia ,nitrite and nitrates ,NOT we add for the plants.
So I wouldn't add anything till you get through cycle(could be a month or more with fish in!).

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Oh ok I understand now. I just took two plants out cause they seemed to be dying. But I won't add anything else till after its done cycling. How will I know for sure it's done cycling? Will the nutrients levels stay flat for so long?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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I've been using aqua safe is that ok?
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 11:08 PM
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With fish in the tank you are looking for 0 ammonia,0 nitrite,and a reasonable level of nitrate(most here are good around 20ppm).
Then ONCE cycled you will still need to change water every so often to control the nitrates .
The plants may have been fine as they can take weeks to acclimate to new tanks.
Look at/for new growth on plant NOT if older leaves are doing well.
When you run out of aquasafe Prime is probably cheaper if you can dose it properly.

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