CO2 regulator broken parts help. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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CO2 regulator broken parts help.

A few years ago I ordered a regulator from yikesjason. Doesn't seem like he's active anymore, so I can't ask him what I need.

Anyway the regulator works fine until I tipped the tank over and the connector that connects the clippard solenoid to the fabco nv-55 broke. I need to replace those parts, but I don't know the sizes that I need. I think the fabco takes the smaller 10/32 connector (don't know what it's called). I'm not sure about the reducer on the solenoid. Also the broken piece is in the reducer, so I need to replace that as well.

Here is the kicker though. I live in Japan and the only parts that I can find are in metric. Besides anyone giving me the sizes, does anyone have or know any place online I can order them on without charging $30 for shipping. That's how much things I've seen on ebay run for shipping.

This is the only picture of he regulator I have at the moment. I'm in the process of moving and don't have it with me right now, but if anyone needs a better picture, I can take more, it will just take a day or so.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 11:18 AM
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You can try searching eBay for a 10-32 hose barb. You should be able to find some with barbs for 6mm tubing. That will be easier to find than the 10-32 fitting alone. I have a couple of the parts you if you cant find anything else. PM me if all else fails.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
You can try searching eBay for a 10-32 hose barb. You should be able to find some with barbs for 6mm tubing. That will be easier to find than the 10-32 fitting alone. I have a couple of the parts you if you cant find anything else. PM me if all else fails.

Actually the only thing I can find on ebay is an 10/32 male to 1/8 barb. That would be fine, but first not sure what size the solenoid takes, and I can't find either a 1/4 or 1/2 to 1/8 barb fitting. I think 1/4 and 1/2 are the two thread sizes that clippard uses.

Also a lot of the things on ebay I have been looking at have $30+ shipping charges foe one small tiny piece. I paid that much to ship the whole regulator. The guy selling the 10/32 male to 1/8 barb has his shipping at about 8 bucks I think.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 11:46 AM
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The part that's in the solenoid isn't probably broken. It's a 1/8 npt x 10-32 reducer. You should have a good 10-32 hole there. That's why I mention the barbs.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
The part that's in the solenoid isn't probably broken. It's a 1/8 npt x 10-32 reducer. You should have a good 10-32 hole there. That's why I mention the barbs.
The 10/32 connector is what broke off into the reducer, so I probably have to replace it since it looks like it would be impossible to extract. Plus brass is so soft.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 11:52 AM
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Stick a knife into it. It will just under un screw assuming no threadlock was used.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Stick a knife into it. It will just under un screw assuming no threadlock was used.
Well hot dang!! That worked easily. Always been scared of brass ever since I stripped some jets in a carburetor.

Shouldn't there have been threadlock anyway? The valve side was a little harder to remove. Should I add some when putting back together? That is if I can find some here and I've looked....I've found and also have loctite that is disassemble-able. Would that work?
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 04:02 PM
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Well hot dang!! That worked easily. Always been scared of brass ever since I stripped some jets in a carburetor.

Shouldn't there have been threadlock anyway? The valve side was a little harder to remove. Should I add some when putting back together? That is if I can find some here and I've looked....I've found and also have loctite that is disassemble-able. Would that work?
Loctite on the brass won't work as far as being able to disassemble it in the future. It's supposed to use little gaskets.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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Loctite on the brass won't work as far as being able to disassemble it in the future. It's supposed to use little gaskets.
Guess I have to use plumbers tape. The tape here is really thick though.

Anyway I may hit you up on your offer as soon as a finish moving if that's ok?
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 11:23 AM
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You could probably also use the low strength loctite. It's not as common as the regular red stuff is.

Ya sure, it's will probably take me while. I hate actually having to go in to post office and filling out the customs paperwork.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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You could probably also use the low strength loctite. It's not as common as the regular red stuff is.

Ya sure, it's will probably take me while. I hate actually having to go in to post office and filling out the customs paperwork.
I don't know the color differences of loctites, but the one I have is blue. I use it for threads on my bikes.


Hey thanks for all the help. I'll try my hardest to find something online, but I might need some help.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 01:50 PM
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Blue Loctite generally allows parts to be removed quite easily.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 02:38 PM
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Since this is a point that makes it easy to break, have you considered doing away with that weak point and running it on tubing which will flex if bumped?
I use stands which give me places to hang parts real easy so I like the advantages of tubing rather than solid pipe.
If that would work for your use, all you would need is the 1/NPT to a barb to fit whatever tubing you like for threading into the solenoid. Then at the other end use a 10-32 to barb fitting to go into the Fabco.
I find this works very nice for my setup as it lets me change out tanks without risk of breaking things.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2014, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Blue Loctite generally allows parts to be removed quite easily.

But would it be recommended in this application?

I've been to 4 to 5 home centers (DIY places like home depot) and have found only thick plumbers tape.

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Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
Since this is a point that makes it easy to break, have you considered doing away with that weak point and running it on tubing which will flex if bumped?
I use stands which give me places to hang parts real easy so I like the advantages of tubing rather than solid pipe.
If that would work for your use, all you would need is the 1/NPT to a barb to fit whatever tubing you like for threading into the solenoid. Then at the other end use a 10-32 to barb fitting to go into the Fabco.
I find this works very nice for my setup as it lets me change out tanks without risk of breaking things.

That's what I'm planning this time around

Problem is finding a place where I can order parts that wont charge me $30+ to ship to Japan since most things in Japan are metric. Found one place on ebay that has 10/32 to 1/8 barb, but was wondering if 1/8 is too small. The shipping from this place is also reasonable.

If I went with the 10/32 to 1/8 barb, all I would need is 2 of those right?
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by phangtonpower View Post
But would it be recommended in this application?

I've been to 4 to 5 home centers (DIY places like home depot) and have found only thick plumbers tape.
Personally, I would use either PTFE (teflon) tape or pipe compound. Blue Loctite is usually meant to prevent threaded parts (e.g. screws) from coming loose, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phangtonpower View Post
Problem is finding a place where I can order parts that wont charge me $30+ to ship to Japan since most things in Japan are metric. Found one place on ebay that has 10/32 to 1/8 barb, but was wondering if 1/8 is too small. The shipping from this place is also reasonable.

If I went with the 10/32 to 1/8 barb, all I would need is 2 of those right?
#10/32 to 1/8" is fine, and what most people use (though I've avoided them because #10/32 is simply too fragile, as you have found out).

Anthony


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