Water change question - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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125 gallon tank
Python
50% water change: tap
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When I do a water change with the coldest setting on the faucet and add 50% more of the water back into the tank my fish get stressed. Should I use warm water? I've noticed that the hot water is cloudy where I live, but I don't know if that is going to make a difference. What do you do?

Also when I fill the tank up with cold water and turn on my filter my tank fills up with all these little white particles that look like worms. The temperature goes from 78 down to like 62


Last edited by Darkblade48; 11-10-2014 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:10 AM
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You want he water going into the tank to be the same temperature as the water coming out or as close to it as possible. If your tank is dropping from 78 to 62, yes your fish will get stressed. In fact depending on your fish that change would kill many of them.

If for what ever reason the minerals in your hot water makes it unusable I would heat up the cold water on the stove.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:48 AM
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I agree with dayolder, that's a large temperature change. I always equate that kind of temperature to going from a hot tub to a cold pool, you get that cold shock, that's probably what the fish feel except they can't get out and go back to the hot tub. My warm faucet water makes the tank cloudy as well but only for a few hours.


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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:50 AM
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The proper way to do it is to use a container with a heater for the water that will eventually go back into the tank. Treat and heat the container of water to match the tank's water and pump back into the tank.

I don't do this myself.....well not entirely. My hot water got slightly cloudy as well and I didn't use it anymore when I was refilling with my python because I couldn't tell what temp. I was sending to my tank. I make R/O water so I already have a container of water in the making with a small return pump. I also mix about 25% tap water with prime. I don't bother with a heater still. Most of the time, I make my water and don't really get around to using it until 2-5 days later. By this time, the water is room temperature. But for the time I do use the R/O water fairly quickly, I still don't use a heater. My temps go down to 60-65. I typically replace about 80% of my water every 2-3 weeks. Only time my fish show worry is when they only have 20% of water to swim in. They act refreshed when the new water starts going in the tank. Typically the cooler the water the more saturated with oxygen it is.

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Last edited by flight50; 11-10-2014 at 03:45 AM. Reason: -
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:56 AM
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I've forgotten what makes the hot look cloudy but it is not a problem while the cold bath is certain to lead to trouble. have you tried using the faucet to mix hot and cold and adding even with the cloudy look? I'm guessing the cloudy clears in a short time.

On another thought, is it possible the water heater needs to be drained to clear a deposit of minerals in the bottom? If you hear a lot of bubbles and gurgles while the water is heating that can tell you that the bottom has lots of mineral buildup. If it is not stuck into a hard lump, draining may save you a lot of trouble and money.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:07 AM
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I won't pile on about the temp. drop but it may be time to flush your HW heater.

I have a standard faucet hookup in my fish room, and my HW comes out cloudy. It's air entrainment and clears in a minute. I'm guessing you're using the coldest water out of the tap out of concern for the cloudy HW? If that's the case, I wouldn't be overly concerned. As you can see from responses here it's rather common.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:27 AM
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In the winter the cold water out of my tap has too much dissolved gases, and I have lost fish that way. I fill a garbage can, blending hot and cold from the tap, and circulate it to out gas before I can use it.

To do this I use a Rubbermaid Brute garbage can, with the rolling caddy (sold separately) and a fountain pump to circulate the water, then fill the tank.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I figured this is aquarium 101 stuff but I've never had such a big tank. So I wanted feedback from others.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 03:06 AM
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The real secret, other than it's more water, is that big tanks are easier. Take more work to change water but then all the other stuff is much more stable and that is what the fish really need. Something they can get used to and not be trying to adjust to need stuff. Kind of like us running in and out during the winter, it really kills you if you are like fish and don't have a coat. When you do your water change, the PH and all those other things is not changed as much as in a small tank.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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What are your guys thoughts on the picture above? Particles worms parasite? Normal?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 07:52 AM
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I use a digital meat thermometer to determine what temp the water is coming out of the faucet. You can check the tank too beforehand but if your heater is adequate you should only have to do so once. Just open the tap on hot and let it reach maximum temp then use the digital thermometer to feed in the cold water until the temperature matches the tank. You can get one for about ten dollars but I'd advise you spend the extra for a twenty dollar one because the readings are more instantaneous and the water resistance generally better.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:13 PM
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I have no idea what the bits of white are. I have seen them in some of my tanks, and thought they were just the last bits of disintegrating leaves or similar. They settle down, and do not move on their own.

The back of most people's fingers, right above the nail is sensitive enough to temperature that is all the comparison I bother with, though occasionally I will stick an aquarium thermometer in the water to be sure. A couple of degrees is not an issue for most fish, and most people can tell that much by touch.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Good tip!

When I used buckets for my smaller tank it was much easier to get the coldest tap water to room temperature. Now, I'll just have to start using warmer water straight out of the faucet because r/or is out if the question for me.
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I have no idea what the bits of white are. I have seen them in some of my tanks, and thought they were just the last bits of disintegrating leaves or similar. They settle down, and do not move on their own.

The back of most people's fingers, right above the nail is sensitive enough to temperature that is all the comparison I bother with, though occasionally I will stick an aquarium thermometer in the water to be sure. A couple of degrees is not an issue for most fish, and most people can tell that much by touch.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylergvolk View Post
Good tip!

When I used buckets for my smaller tank it was much easier to get the coldest tap water to room temperature. Now, I'll just have to start using warmer water straight out of the faucet because r/or is out if the question for me.
I think that would be advisable. Like I said, I have a standard laundry faucet in the fish room and the air entrainment in the hot water line makes it look cloudy out of the tap.
I've gotten really good at judging water temp. right out of he faucet, down to a couple of degrees. The only reason I send water to a separate tank before sending it to the tanks in the fish room is to mix in dechlorinator. It's a long-standing debate, but I use Seachem's Safe and just prefer to give the water about 15 minutes or so to mix with the Safe before adding to the tanks. Water to the tanks is crystal clear.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm picky like that too. If I had the choice I would do that as well.


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I think that would be advisable. Like I said, I have a standard laundry faucet in the fish room and the air entrainment in the hot water line makes it look cloudy out of the tap.
I've gotten really good at judging water temp. right out of he faucet, down to a couple of degrees. The only reason I send water to a separate tank before sending it to the tanks in the fish room is to mix in dechlorinator. It's a long-standing debate, but I use Seachem's Safe and just prefer to give the water about 15 minutes or so to mix with the Safe before adding to the tanks. Water to the tanks is crystal clear.
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