First high tech tank setup - help/questions? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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First high tech tank setup - help/questions?

I have a 40B I am in the process of setting up -

So far I have a base of miracle gro organic potting mix, covered by black diamond. My rocks are in . So is the driftwood.

Light is a finnex fuge ray. I put some pellets of osmocote plus in the soil under the sand.

What is next? Do I put the plants in while dry, or fill it with water first?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 01:47 PM
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A dry start is said to improve the plant's ability to make roots and get established better.
I believe they would flood the gravel or have it well dampened. I think they usually cover the tank with saran wrap which may not be easy for that size tank.
I'm sure this afternoon someone who has done it will fill you in on it.
Finnex Planted+ would be a better choice.
CO2 ? It would be a good idea to get a liquid based Ammonia test kit and nitrate as well. The soil leaches Ammonia for the first few weeks and keeping it down/w water changes may be necessary if the bio-filter doesn't keep up.
What are you fert plans ? Some low tech set ups can get by without them but a high tech needs added ferts and complete ones at that. The soil CAN supply most of them but will last longer if you add. Also certain plants get no nutrients from the substrate.
Java Fern Java Moss Anubias Bolbitis are most of those and floaters too.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure - I guess dry ferts and flourish?

I already have the fuge ray. I can always get a second LED light at some point if I need to.

I do plan on running CO2, yes.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 06:05 PM
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With dry ferts (IE?) you don't need Flourish. Flourish is essentially dry ferts pre-mized in water and sold in convenient (if expensive) bottles.

Fuge Ray puts out quite a bit of light, IIRC, so that's likely fine.

With soil, you definitely need to keep a close eye for the first month or so, as lots of ammonia can leak out, and get a chopstick or something to "poke" the substrate, to release gas pockets that can build up during the first few weeks.

Definitely keep an eye on your levels (you have a test kit, right?) before you introduce any living fish. Wait for the ammonia levels from the substrate to stabilize. Test regularly, as well, so high ammonia doesn't burn your plants. Regular 50% water changes (possibly daily, but probably at least every 2-3 days; testing will confirm how often is needed) are key until things settle down, then you can shift down to the more normal weekly changes.

Dry start is usually only used with certain species of plants. Not all of them do well with it. Actual planting can be done wet or dry, whichever is easier (but some plants will be easier to plant wet than dry, and vice-versa). Many simply plants wet. Be careful about going too deep, however, as you will get quite a mud cloud if you go past the sand into the dirt.


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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I hadnt planned on adding fish until probably 60 plus days in. I have a 180 low tech anubis only, and a 75 with a couple anubias and ferns in it. Both are cichlid tanks. I have the test kits , etc.

This will be my first foray into a lush, Co2 injected aquascaped high tech tank.

Can someone suggest dry ferts? I have osmocote balls sprinkled into the soil under the sand cap.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 06:50 PM
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The EI kits over at GLA should have all you need. You can probably do cheaper buying from people here in the classifieds, but not by much, and it's not a huge amount of money to begin with. One purchase of the dry powders will give you enough to last years.

http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquari...rtilizers.html


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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I put the baby vals in last night and flooded it- have an AC 110 on it temorary until I set up the Co2 and Eheim pro II canisters
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