Please Explain what each does.Not Mechanically inclined at all! - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Please Explain what each does.Not Mechanically inclined at all!

All these are on Rex Grigg's Site, Please no Flaming i am NOT a Mister Fix it kinda guy and have NO CLUE what these things do. So Please Explain What each Does and Why its needed, i feel that i should have a base knowledge and Working understanding before i try to Set one of these up on my tank and kill everything with CO2 Poisoning!

Controlled Regulator

Needle Valve

Low Pressure Regulator

Manifold

Solenoid

MK I Perma-seal
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 12:04 AM
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Try this link, explanations of each component with pictures. This will also explain to you which pieces are absolutely necessary and which are optional.

http://www.njagc.net/articles/co2.htm
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 12:11 AM
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Just get Rex's 'Best' Regulator or better yet, Orlando's 'Choice' Regulator which includes a bubble counter, better needle valve, and 1x check valve below the bubble counter (better deal IMHO, link: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/choice-co2-regulator.html). Add 1x Brass Check valve (for after the bubble counter) and a Permaseal, and a diffuser, if you prefer using a diffuser to a reactor. Pimpin' setup for under $200. Get a 10# tank locally for $60 or so.

You won't need a manifold unless you use multiple tanks or Low Pressure Regulator unless you use the crappy Clippard needle valves and have to worry about 'end of tank dump' (where the last bit of co2 gets past the regulator and gasses all your fish).
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by captain_bu View Post
Try this link, explanations of each component with pictures. This will also explain to you which pieces are absolutely necessary and which are optional.

http://www.njagc.net/articles/co2.htm
WOW sweet link! thank you so much!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by macclellan View Post
Just get Rex's 'Best' Regulator or better yet, Orlando's 'Choice' Regulator which includes a bubble counter, better needle valve, and 1x check valve below the bubble counter (better deal IMHO, link: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/choice-co2-regulator.html). Add 1x Brass Check valve (for after the bubble counter) and a Permaseal, and a diffuser, if you prefer using a diffuser to a reactor. Pimpin' setup for under $200. Get a 10# tank locally for $60 or so.

You won't need a manifold unless you use multiple tanks or Low Pressure Regulator unless you use the crappy Clippard needle valves and have to worry about 'end of tank dump' (where the last bit of co2 gets past the regulator and gasses all your fish).
Your link doesn't work

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 01:20 AM
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Try this link for Orlando's regulator. If that doesn't work, just go to his site GreenleafAquariums.com and look around. He has lots of "toys" for us to play with.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by macclellan View Post
Just get Rex's 'Best' Regulator or better yet, Orlando's 'Choice' Regulator which includes a bubble counter, better needle valve, and 1x check valve below the bubble counter (better deal IMHO, link: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/choice-co2-regulator.html). Add 1x Brass Check valve (for after the bubble counter) and a Permaseal, and a diffuser, if you prefer using a diffuser to a reactor. Pimpin' setup for under $200. Get a 10# tank locally for $60 or so.

You won't need a manifold unless you use multiple tanks or Low Pressure Regulator unless you use the crappy Clippard needle valves and have to worry about 'end of tank dump' (where the last bit of co2 gets past the regulator and gasses all your fish).
Is a Solenoid required? Or is that only needed if your putting it on a timer?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mattd390 View Post
Your link doesn't work
remove the %29 - not sure where that came from.

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co...regulator.html


A solenoid isn't necessary but is highly recommended. Without it, you are using co2 24/7, with it, you are using co2 only when the timer is on (say, 6-12 hours a day). Also, I find it is better for fish to have co2 on only when plants are making oxygen, unless you run an airstone at night.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 10:54 AM
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Sorry to steal your thread bro vance71975.
Is a solenid with timer required if you are using a ph controller.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 11:22 AM
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Sorry to steal your thread bro vance71975.
Is a solenid with timer required if you are using a ph controller.
NO. The controller is the "timer", but you are not doing it by time, you are regulating CO2 injection based on a preset pH value.


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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry to steal your thread bro vance71975.
Is a solenid with timer required if you are using a ph controller.
No worries that was a good question! i only consider it thread stealing if you ask something totally unrelated. Like if you said Hey where can i get ferts in a co2 thread that would be thread stealing. But simple fact is i need to learn as much about this subject as i can and that was another good question!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 06:01 PM
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Get a Sumo Regulator

http://sumoregulator.com/


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 08:23 PM
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NO. The controller is the "timer", but you are not doing it by time, you are regulating CO2 injection based on a preset pH value.
Thanks guys..saved some money on the timer.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks guys..saved some money on the timer.
OK. This is going to confuse you even more, but it is the truth.

Some people do use both. They want their CO2 controller to function only during the lighting cycle. As an example, it comes on 1 hour before the lights are on and it goes off one hour before the lights go off. It stays off the rest of the time.

There are several ways to accomplish this.
- Only have the solenoid controller by the timer. This way you can still read the pH 24/7, but the solenoid is cut of when the timer cuts it off.
- Another way is to plug the CO2 controller to the timer. When the timer is off, the controller if off.
- Programmable computer control.

Why do some people use both? This is one way to allow for a lower CO2 level when the lights are off and a higher CO2 level when the lights are on.

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