Tank stability - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Tank stability

Hey all,
I've had a 30 gal tank with flourite substrate, ultrasun and florasun T5 blubs (9 hours) running for over a year now. I only had anubias, amazon swords, and chain swords in there, but have recently added in cyperus and baby tears. I also started CO2 injected at around 2 bubbles per second.

I noticed that several of my plants have what looks like GSA on the leaves. I've heard that this can form sometimes after large changes to the tank, which I assume adding a bunch of plants, massive water change, and adding CO2 would qualify for.

I'm interested in the Fleet Enema dosing, but I'm not sure the dosage yet. I think it would be around 3ml for the 30 gal several times a week. If GSA goes away on its own once the tank settles a bit, I may also just wait it out. I have two ottos in there doing their thing, but I haven't seen much change yet.

Any advice? Try the enema? Wait it out?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 07:06 PM
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I don't think it will simply go away by itself, not without changing your water chemistry. From what I've read it is linked to low phosphate levels which you may have created by adding the additional plants to your tank. Here is someone's advice from the bcaquaria.com site;

Getting rid of Green spot algae
If your tank is experiencing green spot algae on plants, likely its due to low phosphates. If its on the glass but not on the plants, then just clean the glass, you are doing fine :P

Heres several ways to treat the problem.

Tank treatment, increase Phosphate dosing slightly in your EI fert regime.

Spot Treatment. Turn off filter, use a, b, or c. wait 5 minutes, turn on filter.

a) If you have your phosphate mixed into a solution, you can turn off your filter and dose your phosphates directly on the area thats affected.

b) If you have dry kh2p04, mix your EI dose with tank water just enough to make it dissolve. then pipette/syringe it onto affected area.

c) If you you do not have a phosphate solution, your alternative is Fleet Enema. use 0.3 ml of enema per 10 gallons. Do this daily until its gone since you have no fert regime. Water change every third day 50% to help keep the phosphates from getting out of control during this treatment.

For options a and b, if it keeps coming back on said area quickly, then you need to up the phosphates in your dosing regime. unless you are fine with spot treating the area every dose.
for option C, you run a risk of bottoming out on nitrates during the treatment sue to your lack of regular macro dosing. A high fish load counters this affect. If you have java ferns, this can cause them to blacken at the tips and melt a bit if the nitrates keep bottoming out. The plus side is the baffled look you get from the store clerk when you say, "no im not plugged up, its for my fish tank"
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-20-2014, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve002 View Post
I don't think it will simply go away by itself, not without changing your water chemistry. From what I've read it is linked to low phosphate levels which you may have created by adding the additional plants to your tank. Here is someone's advice from the bcaquaria.com site;

Getting rid of Green spot algae
If your tank is experiencing green spot algae on plants, likely its due to low phosphates. If its on the glass but not on the plants, then just clean the glass, you are doing fine :P

Heres several ways to treat the problem.

Tank treatment, increase Phosphate dosing slightly in your EI fert regime.

Spot Treatment. Turn off filter, use a, b, or c. wait 5 minutes, turn on filter.

a) If you have your phosphate mixed into a solution, you can turn off your filter and dose your phosphates directly on the area thats affected.

b) If you have dry kh2p04, mix your EI dose with tank water just enough to make it dissolve. then pipette/syringe it onto affected area.

c) If you you do not have a phosphate solution, your alternative is Fleet Enema. use 0.3 ml of enema per 10 gallons. Do this daily until its gone since you have no fert regime. Water change every third day 50% to help keep the phosphates from getting out of control during this treatment.

For options a and b, if it keeps coming back on said area quickly, then you need to up the phosphates in your dosing regime. unless you are fine with spot treating the area every dose.
for option C, you run a risk of bottoming out on nitrates during the treatment sue to your lack of regular macro dosing. A high fish load counters this affect. If you have java ferns, this can cause them to blacken at the tips and melt a bit if the nitrates keep bottoming out. The plus side is the baffled look you get from the store clerk when you say, "no im not plugged up, its for my fish tank"

Thanks. I got a bottle of Fleet Enema to try. I made sure to talk about the rational of why it helps the plants grow very loudly with my wife as we were checking out at the store.

I also cut back my photoperiod to around 8 hours. I think it was at 10 hours.

I haven't started using the Fleet yet, I've just been using Flourish every MWF along with some root tabs. So I hope it helps without bottoming out the nitrates.
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