Setting up a new tank, so many questions. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Setting up a new tank, so many questions.

I'm not new at this but these are some nagging questions I've had. I figured I would see if I could get them answered BEFORE I set up another tank.

The Plan:

A 20 long with an ehiem 2213. Coralife 30" T5 NO. I've painted the back a lovely shade of dark blue and I plan on using play sand for a substrate, or Safe T Sorb, haven't decided yet. Or maybe both.

1) Does the ehiem need to be below the tank in order to work? I may end up having the filter behind the tank in which case the pump head would actually be higher than the tank. I guess priming might be a pain but that's all I've come up with so far.

I saw this thread https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=700177 and I want to do something similar. I think I'll use neons though, and not 300. Hope Mr. Barr doesn't mind some copyi...erm... flattery.

2) Will S. repens do well in this tank? Everything I've read so far seems to indicate that this plant is very adaptable to alot of conditions. So with the light I have, dosing, and CO2 hopefully it takes off. Seems like nothing goes wrong with this plant.

I have driftwood, purchased off of kijiji, so I have no idea what it is.

3) If driftwood is soft BEFORE it goes in water, should you still use it?

4) Spray bar or Lily pipe? I have the bar, don't have a lily pipe but always wanted to try one. What will give better circulation in a long tank like this?

5) Heater inline or in tank? I have both but I'm wondering what some of the pitfalls to watch out for might be if the filter is at tank level.

I think that's it... for now... maybe.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 05:37 PM
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I am almost positive the Eheim are OK at the same level as the water, but not above. I have always run mine under the tank, though.

Tom has top of the line lights, CO2, high water flow and originated the EI concept. As long as you are doing similar, I would think the plants would grow for you, too.

Soft wood: If it is mushy and falling apart, no. If it is just barely spongy I would risk it.

I tend not to use lily pipes. I prefer stronger blasts of water movement from spray bars, or the Koralia style of power head.

In line heater: If the filter is not OK at that level, then there sure would be problems! But if someone can clarify the acceptable level of the Eheim with respect to the water level in the tank then that not be a problem. Anything that interrupts the water flow can be a problem, and if the filter is not working at 100% efficiency, that is not good.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 07:45 PM
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1) Does the ehiem need to be below the tank in order to work? I may end up having the filter behind the tank in which case the pump head would actually be higher than the tank. I guess priming might be a pain but that's all I've come up with so far. No problem with that, it's instructions ask that it not be placed higher than the tank, in fact the closer it is to water level the less internal water pressure vis a vis its ability to seal and not leak

2) Will S. repens do well in this tank? Everything I've read so far seems to indicate that this plant is very adaptable to alot of conditions. So with the light I have, dosing, and CO2 hopefully it takes off. Seems like nothing goes wrong with this plant. No reason for it not to do well

3) If driftwood is soft BEFORE it goes in water, should you still use it? If you mean the wood has gone punky then it will rot and disintegrate quickly, probably not what you want in your tank

4) Spray bar or Lily pipe? I have the bar, don't have a lily pipe but always wanted to try one. What will give better circulation in a long tank like this? Theoretically they're both pushing the same amount of water so the flow will be the same but the lily pipe will concentrate that flow in one area more than the spray bar, lily pipes look cooler but especially the 16mm cheap ones break easily with handling, if set up properly with a strong flow the lily pipe will create a vortex down from the surface that helps eliminate surface scum with little surface agitation

5) Heater inline or in tank? I have both but I'm wondering what some of the pitfalls to watch out for might be if the filter is at tank level.a good quality heater will work well in either configuration, if the in-tank heater is submersible then it should never be out of the water in whole or in part, if it's not submersible then the top should never be in the water, an inline filter is aesthetically more pleasing since it is not seen but it needs a constant water flow through it to work regardless of where it is positioned and anything above the water line risks it being filled with air
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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I tried out the filter today... and it was too much of a pain just to get it primed. After sucking on a hose for 10 seconds I'm re-thinking the plan lol.

I'm going to soak the wood. It's attached to slate but I'll see what happens when it's waterlogged.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 04:32 PM
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The easiest way to get a canister primed is to have water in your intake line then just open your valves and gravity will take over. If your canister is at your water level then it may be easier to insert air line tubing into the outtake to the high point of the bend over the side of the tank and carefully suck enough air out of it until the water begins siphoning into the canister. You may have to do it more than once since it works best on the intake hose but I can't get airline into it so I have to use the outlet and that leaves an air pocket in the intake hose that will often stop the pumping action until it becomes small enough to pass through the pump completely. Each time you suck more air out then turn the pump on and off again (if it dosen't then start running) and do it again the remaining air pocket gets smaller.
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