Wow. After hours of reading and trying to come up with the right calculations I decided I will continue with PPS Pro and add additional KNO3 for a few weeks. If I am not happy I will switch to EI and try that. Can anyone run these numbers for me to see if they are all correct. My main concern and the one I am not sure of is the CSM+B. If I do decide to switch I want to be prepared with correct numbers for a 31 to 32 gallon tank.
SATURDAY----- 50% WATER CHANGE THEN ADD 1.4 GRAMS KNO3 AND .3 GRAMS KH2PO4
SUNDAY-------- ADD .3 GRAMS CSM+B
MONDAY-------ADD 1.4 GRAMS KNO3 AND .3 GRAMS KH2PO4
TUESDAY-------ADD .3 GRAMS CSM+B
WEDNESDAY--ADD 1.4 GRAMS KNO3 AND .3 GRAMS KH2PO4
THURSDAY-----ADD .3 GRAMS CSM+B
500 ML DISTILLED WATER SOLUTION 10 ML DOSE
71 GRAMS KNO3
11 GRAMS KH2PO4
500 ML DISTILLED WATER SOLUTION 5 ML DOSE
30 GRAMS CSM+B
They are not THAT much different.
Lots of hollering otherwise........but they do both add the SAME ferts, just at different amounts.
One adds a lower much more conservative amount and assumes build up of these ferts is somehow "Bad". There's no evidence that they are over a truly massive range.
Another targets the upper range, the only method that does in fact.
Now if you start low, and slowly add progressively MORE....then you eventually phase into the other method. Likewise, if you start with non limiting ferts, and slowly REDUCE them, now you are at the same point, you add a little LESS/ or MORE depending on the starting point, till you see a negative plant growth response.
Now you have tweaked each method to suit your specific tank.
But.........CO2 and light are larger factors. Much larger. And they both drive uptake in plants for these ferts.
This is one of the best articles all around I've seen.
Read that and see if you can understand each figure. You do that, it will help more than all the blah blah about Ferts you will read in 5 years.
Generally, if you where to see what amount of food would best sustain you without gaining weight, would you start with just a few rice crackers and then slowly add more and more till you stopped losing weight?
Or would you eat well, then slowly cut things out little by little till you no longer gained weight?
Which method is healthier?
You can answer that on your own.
EI and PPS can both be modified and generally with some experience and CO2/light, should be. Most any method should be.
But you need to start somewhere and carefully watching the tank is a good idea. Ei rules out any deficiencies, this makes the ferts independent of other factors, so you can focus on things like CO2, which you will see over time account for the 95% of most algae and plant issues you will see on line and in person.
You master light and CO2, then ferts and algae and plant issues are very very easy.
So you can simply add more of the solution to get higher concentrations, but I would suggest adding more of the KH2PO4 to the mix, then you can add more/less as you wish.
You have enough light it seems, so Excel could work well. Ditch that drop checker(DC) or at the very least, do not put much faith in it's readings, they are very poor methods to measure CO2, huge error, slow response etc, much better to use a pH meter, measure the KH etc, you can use relative pH drop which works fairly well overall for most. DC's cause more issues than they are worth.
CO2, good cleaning, keep the filter cleaned etc. Bristle nose plecos will clean the glass very well also, shrimp, they will get eaten by the Roselines most likely, if not now, then later.