PH - 7.6
Am - <0.25ppm
NO2 - < 5.0ppm
NO3 - )<0.25ppm
Here is after water change today with the master kit
PH - PH - 7.6
AM - <25ppm
NO2 - <5.0ppm
NO3 - <0.25ppm
I'm with everyone else, you just provide too much writing without specifics. I will however note that in these two examples you have your values incorrrect. It is very unlikely that your NITRITE (NO2) is ~5ppm, I think you have your symbols reversed. NITRATE is NO3.
Anyway, the parameter that tends to shift is NITRATES and pH. Nitrates will fluctuate based upon how much food and fish load you have versus how much nitrate is being consumed by the plants. If the tank is heavily planted, you will need to add nitrates so the levels do not bottom out. If the plants cannot consume the amount of nitrates produced, then they will steadily climb until you do water changes (assuming your water has low levels of nitrates).
PH can fluctuate based upon the time of day due to varying levels of CO2 in the water. The more CO2, the lower the pH. Inversely, the less CO2, the higher the pH.
Your levels of ammonia and NITRITE should always read zero. That's what it means to have a cycled tank. Your beneficial bacteria should be able to handle all the ammonia and NITRITE.
Do yourself a favor and throw out your old API tests, return the dip sticks if you can (or else, sorry to say, you wasted your money and you should throw them out). Buy a new test kit for ammonia and NITRITE. I don't know why people sweat testing NITRATE so much. If you want to test, then you need to calibrate your test kit or else assume its only giving you a ball park range. pH is nice to know roughly as it provides an understanding for what species of fish to keep, but I would argue you don't need to worry about your exact pH so much. Again, get a ball park range of your water and then call it good.
Overall, start enjoying the hobby and stop stressing so much. I fear you may over complicate things for yourself.