Ambulia and internode length - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Hi all I have a problem with ambulia in my tank, Under metal halides it still has really long internodes, much longer than when I bought them. I have read that temperature may contribute to this problem, Tank is currently running at 28 degrees C for my discus. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?

Paul
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 09:01 PM
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I just saw a refernece to htis and have adjusted the temp in my tanks to try to get cooler. The tank at the school has no heater and the ambulia I put in there from my tank is much bushier. that tank is also running with no added nitrate, only flourish and flourish iron, plus Co2 and different lights than my home tank.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 12:06 AM
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Very interesting question. I have ambulia and was told that the nodes are closer under stronger light. I believe this to be true because as my plants get closer to the surface the nodes get closer together.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 12:22 AM
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I have a tank that is kept around 72F, and Ambulia looks much different in it compared to the warmer tanks. It is somewhat bushier, but also the little leaf needles (I am sure there is a scientific name!) are much shorter and wider, while under higher temps they are very thin/fine.

Ambulia can be grown in cooler water, down to 68F easily.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah capt. I thought the same thing, but even with three 150 metal halides I still have this problem of internode length. Just wondering if the 5700 bulbs in the halides are the wrong kelvin for stem plants, definitely not a matter of light as the tank is so much brighter than when I had fluros.

So still wondering if anyone has a solution for me.

Paul
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 01:28 PM
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In my home tank the ambulia brances when it hits the surface. In the school tank, cooler temps, lower nitrates, it branches near the base. It also displays the reddish color all along the stem that I see in my home tank after the growth has hit the surface.

As for light temperature, the home tank has a pair of 9325K 55 watts on the back and 6500K 55 watts on the front. The school tank has 9325K NO flourescent tubes.

The school tank has been running for 4 weeks with no nitrate at all, but for root suppliments, and those were added only this week. The CO2 level in the school tank is much lower than the home tank, near 5ppm vs near 20ppm. Oh, maybe that is it, maybe it grows long internodes at higher CO2 levels? That is how the submerged conditions at school resemble surface conditions at home, creating submerged growth at the school that looks like surface growth at home where surface Co2 levels ought to be closer to 5ppm than 20 ppm lower in the tank.

Hmm, thinking back, it may be that the growth earlier, before I cranked up the CO2 a bit more, was slightly more compact.... I thought it was because I trimmed and left bases to grow instead of topping and replanting last time, but maybe that isn't the cause of the thinner, longer growth!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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There might be something in that about CO2 concentrations. I have only grown this plant under CO2 conditions, but am disappointed with this leggy internode length. What do others think, could it be CO2, I run about 25ppm most of the time?

Paul
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-26-2005, 12:24 PM
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my mothers tank has no CO2 supplementation, and her ambulia is very bushy (yet deep green instead of lighter green with red). i've noticed mine is getting much leggier under higher CO2 and higher light. to me, that means that perhaps its wanting something else (nitrate, phosphate, etc) to keep its growth bushy. as aquatic plants go, ambulia is a darn fast grower, even in a low light low CO2 environment, and maybe the spike in CO2 and light leaves it lacking where other plants do fine. i'd be interested in doing a plant only tank with ambulia under high light, high co2, and increasing ferts to 1.5-2x recommended levels for a high light tank, so we're talking 30-40ppm nitrate, 3-4ppm phosphate, ~40ppm K+, and doubled micro dosing. It will probably grow faster than ever, but I suspect it will green up a little and keep a bushier appearance. just a thought

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