Start of 80gal bow. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Start of 80gal bow.

Now that I've finished perusing some books and spent another 20 minutes looking through an empty tank, I've decided to share my ideas on how I plan to set up the empty 80 gallon tank decorating the living room. Hopefully you will oblige with your own critique on some of my decisions.

The equipment:
-wet-dry trickle filter
-eheim 2217 canister
-jager heater
-norgren regulator and solenoid
-10 lb CO2 tank
-heating coil for beneath substrate

The substrate: Laterite layer with Eco-complete

Lighting: Not sure on either PC or T5 but 3watts per gallon

Oh and a few questions -
How much water motion are most of you running through your tanks in ratio to your tank volume? Is laterite fully necessary with Eco-complete substrate?

Thanks-
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 04:49 PM
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You do not need laterite with eco-complete. Eco-complete is sufficient on its own. I also don't think you'd wanna do the heating coil under the substrate as plant roots will get entangled in it and will make it difficult to pull up the plants to remove or rearrange.

If you're doing pressurized CO2, which it sounds like you are doing, then i would recommend against the trickle filter, as trickle filters promote a lot of gas exchange and will essentially outgas any CO2 you put in.

I personally do a little more than double gph in ratio to my tank volume. Some do even more than that. But really, there is no such thing as over-filtration
The only thing you'd have to worry about is current and the fish you intend to keep.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishninja View Post
The equipment:
-wet-dry trickle filter
-eheim 2217 canister
Use one or the other. I have both types, canister and overflow/sumps, on multiple tanks. Overflow/sumps are fine and they will use 2x-3x more gas than without. The trick to the wet/dry is to seal it completely as well the overflow. Wet/Dry's do keep the surface 100% clear and that IMO is worth the extra gas (cheap!) Plus you can hide other equipment


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-heating coil for beneath substrate

Not needed IMO


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Laterite layer

Not needed IME

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-Lighting: Not sure on either PC or T5 but 3watts per gallon

Either is fine

Chris
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 08:32 PM
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As per the trickle filter setup a sump and keep everything submerged as it will help with saving CO2. I went from a 75 with a sump running 5 bps to keep my CO2 where I wanted it to a 20H with a canister running ~1-1.5 BPS and have more than enough CO2. I do like the sumps as they do keep the top sparkling. Now if one of the vendors made a glass skimmer that would be GREAT!. I prefer T5HO over pc but am using 70 watts of Metal Halide over my 20 as I got a steal on it and it is just as nice as T5. If you have the money to spend get a TEK fixture as they are some of the best. If I change my 20 to T5 that is what I would get just couldn't get the $ for it and found the MH cheap.

Craig
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 12:03 AM
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Welcome to TPT, Fishninja!

x2 (or 3 or whatever) on all the advice given so far!

I've just started using T5HO and really really like them- my own research suggests that they offer great light penetration especially good for deep tanks like bowfronts tend to be- so IMO I'd go with a T5. They end up cheaper in the long run as well- since you only need to replace the bulbs every 18-24 months instead of every 6-9 months with PC fixtures!

If your tank is 48" wide, this is the fixture I'd recommend- just got it for my own 90gal and I'm VERY happy with it: http://cgi.ebay.com/48-SOLAR-T5-AQUA...QQcmdZViewItem
You'd need to replace the actinic bulbs, but I think this would get you right where you'd like to be- plus it has all the latest bells and whistles as far as features go!

IMO it's just behind Tek fixtures in quality, but for 1/2 the price and with 2x the extra features...





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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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I sincerely appreciate the advice in the posts thus far Thanks guys!

What led me to decide on incorporating the trickle-filter into the setup was that I figured the pros outweighed the cons. From my own experience and what Ive read I figured a trickle-filter/overflow setup would:

1. provide good mechanical filtration via the prefilter sock and the filter pad over the drip tray.
2. remove the surface scum that would inhibit light penetration.
3. provide excellent water circulation.
4. maintain high oxygen levels at night when the plants are not photosynthesizing and supply the bacteria in the biological media with sufficient oxygen.
5.provide a convenient place for a CO2 reactor and other unsightly equipment
6. not remove much CO2 when properly set up (see experiment below)

Here is an experiment done by Aquatic Concepts that I found regarding CO2 loss from a trickle-filter sump: http://aquaticconcepts.thekrib.com/Co2/index.htm#loss

Id love to hear some more feedback from those of you who are already using or have used a trickle-filter/overflow setup regarding some of the pros/cons youve noticed. And no heating coil? I was under the impression the heating coil was suppose to help create convection currents through the substrate benefiting both the plants and bacteria.
~Thane
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 08:35 PM
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I've never used a heating coil- considered one, but read plenty of threads with input from knowledgeable ppl who considered them not a worthwhile investment, and they pretty much eliminate your ability to move around plants w/out pulling the cable up once the plants have rooted. I opted not to use one, personally.





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