GDA, the battle begins - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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GDA, the battle begins

Well I got green dust algae in my big tank. I'm going to try the method of leaving it alone for 20 days and see if it works. If not Ill try the second suggestion from Tom Barr, 4 day black out, over dosing excel and 80% daily water changes.

Pictures after 1 week.


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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 07:03 AM
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I left mine be for roughly a month, after which I hit it with everything I had after scraping: water change, diatom filter, UV sterilizer. I won the battle. It was horrible to have a green box for a month though.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 04:14 PM
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Maybe put a school or ottos or some olive nerite snails in there? That might help.

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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by indiboi View Post
I left mine be for roughly a month, after which I hit it with everything I had after scraping: water change, diatom filter, UV sterilizer. I won the battle. It was horrible to have a green box for a month though.
did you keep dosing ferts? what about water chages?
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 05:48 PM
 
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um how much light is it in thoose ramps?
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ganjero View Post
did you keep dosing ferts? what about water chages?
Yes, I kept everything the same, other than the glass scraping of course.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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um how much light is it in those ramps?
Well is 150w MH each pendant, but I'm pretty sure it's not the light.
I have one of these pendants over my 20g long and I don't have any problems there. Plus I was getting the GDA at the same rate before and I was using 210w with fluorescent bulbs.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 07:59 PM
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That GDA is from the lights my friend, they are really way to close to the tank, you will never be rid of the problem with those hanging like that.

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 09:16 PM
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I recently redid a tank that had GDA and beat it.
I had slightly poor CO2 and simply needed to run and clean the tank better.

So I added better circulation, micron filtration, UV, good wipings, followed by back to back cleaning.

So pure brute force cleaning and mechanical methods did work after I let the bugger go for 3 weeks(slough stage).

Has not even remotely come back since.
I dialed the CO2 in better.
Did the water changes routinely thereafter.

This is about the 4th such tank I've been able to get rid of GDA and it works well.

I do not think lights (high or low) really are factor, I've seen it in PC lighting from 2-6 w/gal, and with MH's.

Regards,
Tom Barr




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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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I recently redid a tank that had GDA and beat it.
I had slightly poor CO2 and simply needed to run and clean the tank better.

So I added better circulation, micron filtration, UV, good wipings, followed by back to back cleaning.

So pure brute force cleaning and mechanical methods did work after I let the bugger go for 3 weeks(slough stage).

Has not even remotely come back since.
I dialed the CO2 in better.
Did the water changes routinely thereafter.

This is about the 4th such tank I've been able to get rid of GDA and it works well.

I do not think lights (high or low) really are factor, I've seen it in PC lighting from 2-6 w/gal, and with MH's.

Regards,
Tom Barr
Thanks for the inputs, Ill try all that.
I dont think is the lights either. Like I said I had fluorescent lights and it was the same, I forgot to mentioned that I've also played with moving the lights higher and I still got the same results and my carpet plants were growing vertically. I have the same light in my 20g at a comparable distance and I dont get GDA but I will take wolfenxxx's advice anyways and place the pendants a little higher after the 3 week period and see what results I get this time.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post

I do not think lights (high or low) really are factor, I've seen it in PC lighting from 2-6 w/gal, and with MH's.

Regards,
Tom Barr
Tom,
He has three 150w MH basically sitting on that tank, and after one week the glass is solid green and you don't think the light has anything to do with it?
Get realistic.
Telling him that is not going to help, being slothful is never the correct answer either, I have never had to look at any of my tanks with fugly green walls for weeks or more because I didn't understand that the light was causing the problem. There are other factors involved yes but without the light the glass will not be a solid green in a single week.
Of coarse it is each persons choice to burn that much light that it creates a mess but the simple fact is plants do not need that much.
The problem and unsightly tank can be fixed and almost pleasant to look at again within one day not weeks or more.

Craig

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tom,
He has three 150w MH basically sitting on that tank, and after one week the glass is solid green and you don't think the light has anything to do with it?
Get realistic.
Telling him that is not going to help, being slothful is never the correct answer either, I have never had to look at any of my tanks with fugly green walls for weeks or more because I didn't understand that the light was causing the problem. There are other factors involved yes but without the light the glass will not be a solid green in a single week.
Of coarse it is each persons choice to burn that much light that it creates a mess but the simple fact is plants do not need that much.
The problem and unsightly tank can be fixed and almost pleasant to look at again within one day not weeks or more.
Like I said before I had the same results with NO fluorescent bulbs at the same distance. The glass was getting green like that in 1 week with the NO fluorescents, no difference.

All the big ADA tanks I've seen use 3 150w MH with no problems.
There are different ways to get what you want in this hobby. I like my plants to grow fast, and the carpet plants to stay horizontal. Lets wait until I go through the waiting period an clean the tank, I'm pretty sure I will be able to pull it off.
I agree the light makes it grow, without light no algae (or any plant) will grow, but the GDA will grow in this tank with any type of light.


This is my 20g using 1 150w MH https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ph...g-planted.html
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 06:49 AM
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My apologies, I assumed you were looking for a cause and solution to the green sheets on the glass.
I will get some popcorn and watch you in this thread as you struggle to maintain balance in that tank. I am pulling for you

I also have an estimated 18g tank, an ADA 60P with a ADA 150w MH pendant hanging 12 to 16 inches over it filled with slow growing plants which leaves even less margin for error than filled with fast stems. I am familiar with cause and effect.

I only run the MH for 4 hours or less, then low to lower light for the rest of photo period, some days I do not run the MH at all, just low/er light.
It certainly makes things easier for me.

Craig

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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My apologies, I assumed you were looking for a cause and solution to the green sheets on the glass.
I will get some popcorn and watch you in this thread as you struggle to maintain balance in that tank. I am pulling for you

I also have an estimated 18g tank, an ADA 60P with a ADA 150w MH pendant hanging 12 to 16 inches over it filled with slow growing plants which leaves even less margin for error than filled with fast stems. I am familiar with cause and effect.

I only run the MH for 4 hours or less, then low to lower light for the rest of photo period, some days I do not run the MH at all, just low/er light.
It certainly makes things easier for me.
I'm open minded and always appreciate when people want to help me, so..
What would you suggest I should do?
Let me give you more info so you can help me better.




I dose dry ferts MON WED FRI (Phosphates, nitrates, magnesium) and TUE THR (Plantex). I do 40-50% water changes on SUN.
The lights are on for 8hrs a day.
I inject co2 through a 30" long DIY PVC reactor that has its own closed loop.
I run a FX5 and XP3 canister filters, so between the closed loop and the filters there is plenty of current to move things around.
If you want more info let me know.
Thanks
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 04:17 PM
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Tom,
He has three 150w MH basically sitting on that tank, and after one week the glass is solid green and you don't think the light has anything to do with it?
Get realistic.
Well. this poster has it in the normal FL's as well.
You explained one, but what about the other lower light tank?

It will grow faster, but it's presence absence is not defined in/by high light.
But that is true for most algae also.

So that is realistic.
It's based on my and his observation/s.

Quote:
Telling him that is not going to help, being slothful is never the correct answer either, I have never had to look at any of my tanks with fugly green walls for weeks or more because I didn't understand that the light was causing the problem.
You assume that it is, but observations suggest that cannot be the only factor, it does occur, as much as you might not want to admit it, in low and high light tanks.

Rate of growth is not the question here and that's about all the light is really doing here. GW is similar, it'll grow much better/faster, produce more biomass in high vs low light.

And in most cases, you can get rid of all algae in lower light easier.
I think that might be your point?
I agree with that.

Quote:
There are other factors involved yes but without the light the glass will not be a solid green in a single week.
So what might other factors will be influenced once you reduce the light? CO2? Nutrients? Growth rate?

You can stop algae with blackouts, but this one really does not work too well, but you can do it and say it reduces the growth rates(it does, and for plants as well).

Quote:
Of coarse it is each persons choice to burn that much light that it creates a mess but the simple fact is plants do not need that much.
Oh very very true, no disagreement here, we are certainly thinking the same.
It does does afford far far more wiggle room. Been telling folks this for decades, but no one listens to that part

Quote:
The problem and unsightly tank can be fixed and almost pleasant to look at again within one day not weeks or more.
I suggested that method as well, as well as the lower labor method of patience. I've been able to beat every alga inside a week or less.
Cleaning it off, daily, or even 2-3x a day, large water changes, Excel after, micron filtration and UV mix, high filter flow rates to get it all, making sure the other parameters are in check(lowering light will give more wiggle room, but if you use high light, you should try and tweak the high light you have, I've not had issues with that, the rates of growth for plants and algae are higher, so response times are faster and if you failed in the eradication method, you'll have a relapse much faster and easier)

Add strong pruning, fluffing plant's leaves, add some herbivores for cleaning the plants etc, you and most folks should be able to do it.

Now while I can do this 12x out 12X, other folks will not be able to even if I tell them everything, the likely hood they will get the parameters alone correct suggest 90-100% success is not likely. Too many variables.
Some cases you do get lucky with amethod that works well and has higher success rates, blackout with BGA works 100% if you follow directions.
It does kill it.

Same deal here, you can remove and wipe it off, then run micron and UV, water changes harass it enough selectively, but that also drives plant growth a lot as well.

However, if we look at the observations about light with folks that do have it, light is a not large factor, e.g., folks only with high light do not get it.
you'll need to explain that and how high light is really the driving factor here.

Your own hypothesis: high light only = Green Dust Algae, is falsified, not only by others, but within this same hobbyists tanks.

If you changed the hypothesis, to say high light = faster growth rates of GDA, then you have something more reasonable and workable. I've measured this many times in the field.

I do agree most species of algae can be beaten simply by using less light and are easier to beat.

I also agree folks, this one included do have too much light for the levels of care many put into the tanks they have, they'd be better suited using less light.

But the control of this alga does not appear well correlated with light.
I have a tank with MH's, PC's and a heck of lot of light and it's been subjected to GDS at least 20 times now with GDS inoculum.

I have never been able to get it to grow in that tank, ever.
I have a smaller tanks with a pair of T5's, I had it going really good.

It had 4x less light, one had 450 micromols, the other 110 micromols of light.
Based on that, I have trouble saying light in a large part of the variation in observations.

Does this explain why I said what I said better?

Adding less light might help, but it should not define why they got it or have it. I'm not certain why this alga blooms when it does and how.

I've never been able to induce it consistently enough to have any confidence. But I do know I have tanks with lots of light and no GDS, at least as much as this tank in question.

But more to your point, suggesting less light by raising them up is wise as well. Agreed.

Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
Tom Barr
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