temperature and water change from tap - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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temperature and water change from tap

I have been reading alot today about people doing water changes from their tap, using the python etc. I understand you are putting the dechlor directly in the tank, got that.

What i would be concerned about is the temperature differential. How are you managing that?

Chris
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 04:51 AM
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Get it close within 5 degrees I shoot for.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 05:02 AM
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What i would be concerned about is the temperature differential. How are you managing that?
If not in a rush, add water slowly so the heater is able to keep up.


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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 05:42 AM
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Since I've had only small tanks until a week ago, I worked hard to match the temperature. I would read the temp on the tank's thermometer, and then take that same thermometer to the sink. I use a small plastic cup (like a betta cup they use in the stores). I run the water until through the sink (not through the python hose yet) until it feels close to the right temp (I can pretty well tell by touch now).

Once it feels right, I then let the water go through the python into the cup. I put the thermometer in the cup and keep running the water until the thermometer's temps are stable. If it's off, I adjust the water temp, syphon the water back out, and then push the new water back through to check the new water temp. Once it's a dead ringer, I do not touch the knobs. I go straight to the tank and start filling.

But understand that when you're doing a water change for a 5 gallon tank, 5 degrees off is a lot simply because the water changes are pretty high (usually around 50%). The 2.5g needs to be right on target. The 20Long is more forgiving since the water changes are usually more like 33%.

I'm sure with my new 75g, I won't worry anywhere near as much because the percentage of the overall water being changed won't be as high. However, if I did do a large water change, I would repeat the same process, trying to get the temperature as close as possible. I'm sure while doing a large water change for a 75g, the temp will drop as the small amount of hot water being used starts to peter out.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 06:03 AM
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What do you do if you have a shrimp tank? Is it ok to use warm water? I have been, but I kind of just assumed there would be a risk of excess copper.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 06:07 AM
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Your hand should be able to tell a degree or two difference. I change my water by feel and have never had a problem.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 06:33 AM
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With my indoor garden hose attached to kitchen faucet, I used to use a thermometer first on the tap before hooking it up.

Now I just use my hands to compare the temperatures, I find no big difference as long as they're close enough. I compare this crudely to outdoor rain in the wild, where the rainwater is cooler than lake/river/pond.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 07:14 AM
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On my discus tank which is at 84*F I do a 30-40% water change everyweek with straight tap. Keep in mind this is a 75 gal and after I'm done the water is 72-74*F. Takes about 2 days to get back up to 84 but I have been doing this for years and no ill affects on any fish.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 07:25 AM
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I just use the hand test as well, and usually lean towards a tad warmer than the tank water.

My tank temps usually ends up the same or 1-2 degrees warmer when I'm done.

It's cheaper to let water cool down than it is to warm it up IMO.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 07:28 AM
 
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I just use the hand test as well, and usually lean towards a tad warmer than the tank water.

My tank temps usually ends up the same or 1-2 degrees warmer when I'm done.

It's cheaper to let water cool down than it is to warm it up IMO.

I'm the same way. After 10 years of WC, you get the feel of the correct temp. Even if tank water gets cooler, it's usually only about 1 degree cooler. I know when you simulate a rainy season for breeding purposes, it's usually a +-1 degree anyways.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jinx© View Post
I just use the hand test as well, and usually lean towards a tad warmer than the tank water.

My tank temps usually ends up the same or 1-2 degrees warmer when I'm done.

It's cheaper to let water cool down than it is to warm it up IMO.
I'm not saying your wrong Jinx. I do the exact opposite as you though. I always tend to go a little cooler. I have dealt with live baitfish for years, and they can be sensitive to temperature changes in an artificial environment. They tend to tolerate cooler water better as opposed to warmer water (I beleive because of oxygen concentration). I am not necessarily saying that this applies in the same way to tropical fish.

I too use my hand to get the temps as close as possible. I do use the back of my hand though for feeling the temps as the palm of my hand is not as sensitive.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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ValorG,

This is interesting, where my tank is located I am closer to an outside water outlet (no hot water there), so I will not be able to mix. also my kitchen sink and others have these fancy faucets (designer stuff to meet my wifes needs), so I really cannot connect there.

I will have to either fill slowly, or maybe make smaller changes.

now the question, I am amazed at the frequency and volume of the water changes here. Understand I am new to the Planted Aquarium, have been handling reef systems for many years, and freshwater.

is this frequency and high volume (50%) necessary, and why?

Chris
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 12:11 PM
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I tend toward cooler also. I do use an instant read kitchen thermometer to set the water temperature as close to the true temperature of the aquarium waster before switching the valve to send the water into the aquarium. If I'm having trouble getting exact, I'll just set a bit cooler, but less than a degree difference.

My water hose connects into my filter's outflow tubing, so all new water will be passing through my inline heater before entering the aquarium.

The use of 50% water changes is primarily due to the method of fertilization used. EI dosing recommends providing ample nutrients (some would say too many) and then "resetting" (which is really just diluting, of course) each week with a big water change. In the event your "estimate" on the dosing is wrong, then you won't continually have a build up. In a dosing program such as PPS, water changes are deemphasized because the amount of fertilizers added is so very small comparatively.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Indiboi....where can I review the different dosing methods? What do you use and why?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 02:28 PM
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PPS-Pro Newbie Guide, EI "light", and EI "daily liquid".

I use EI "light" or I suppose it's more like "standard" ....on my 75 gallon, since the bathroom is next door I have very easy access to water for the 50% weekly change. I use PPS-Pro (sort of half heartedly though) on my low-light 10 gallon, which is down the stairs and not near a water source.

I can't compare growth or the merits of either since my tanks are completely different. There's a low-light version of EI somewhere too.
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