Planned 70 Gallon Tall Rimless Setup - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Planned 70 Gallon Tall Rimless Setup

I am planning a new 70 gallon tall (36" x 18" x 25" tall) setup, and was wondering if people had thoughts or recommendations.

Tank would be from glasscages, low-iron glass. Other possible sources of good rimless tanks are much appreciated.

I plan to filter it with an Eheim 2028 pro ii canister, using straight biological, and run through a UV sterilizer.

Substrate will be either eco complete or black fluorite (which I have not yet seen any reviews on).

CO2 injection via 5 lb canister and Eheim diffuser.

Lighting via ADA 150W pendent.

Heating via simple visitherm stealth heater.

It will be placed on top of a wetbar, with the cords/cables running through a portal cut in the wetbar top for this purpose. That way water changes should be a snap, using the wetbar sink.

What do people think? The fish will probably be tetras, though I am toying with the idea of a couple discus.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 10:58 AM
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I am planning a new 70 gallon tall (36" x 18" x 25" tall) setup ...
... What do people think?
I think that a re-think is in order.

1. The difference in color/clarity of Starfire (low-iron) glass aquariums, in thicknesses less that 1/2", do not justify the added expense of the special glass. When filled with water and greenery, there is virtually no perceptible difference.

2. Any tank, 25" tall and 18" wide, placed atop a wetbar (which I assume will be higher than just counter height) will require a stepladder to work in the tank.

Of course, in both of these issues, this is just my opinion, but ... you asked.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 12:41 PM
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I might also suggest a more shallow tank. Its difficult to light tanks that deep, especially if you want to grow light demanding foregrounds.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 01:56 PM
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If you don't have the tank yet, I'd suggest something shorter.

*Kristin*
Planted tanks:40g breeder, 20g long, 29g
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnInFlorida View Post
I think that a re-think is in order.

1. The difference in color/clarity of Starfire (low-iron) glass aquariums, in thicknesses less that 1/2", do not justify the added expense of the special glass. When filled with water and greenery, there is virtually no perceptible difference.

2. Any tank, 25" tall and 18" wide, placed atop a wetbar (which I assume will be higher than just counter height) will require a stepladder to work in the tank.

Of course, in both of these issues, this is just my opinion, but ... you asked.

Keep Smilin'
John
I agree...great advice John


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 03:25 PM
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I agree...great advice John
If you plan to add fish..........they don't swim up and down.....but left to right.....
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 04:30 PM
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If you like that shape tank the 36 inch tank, I would suggest going with the 60 gallon tank. It is about 5 inches shorter and that will bring alot of the lighting issue under control. 60 gallons with a 150 watt light will be pretty good. that gives you about 2.5 watts per gallon. If you want a high light tank, I would bump the halide up to a 250 watt fixture.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the good and helpful advice. The reason I was thinking 70 tall is that I can only fit in a 36" long tank (can't do 48"), and I wanted as big of a tank as I could fit in that space. The wetbar is actually pretty low, it's more of a counter-wetbar type thing. Plus I am pretty tall and have long arms. However I still agree that I'd probably need a stepladder (or probably just one of those library step things) to fully work on the bottom of the tank.

It sounds like low-iron glass probably isn't worth it. Maybe front panel only though?

Do you really think more light is necessary than 150W? Is that much light really lost through the extra 7" or so as compared to an 18" high tank? I used to run 300 watts over my 75 regular tank, and found that (with CO2) it was unnecessary and 160 watts of fluorescents was more than adequate. I'm not planning on growing Glosso or other super-low carpet type plants.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 06:22 PM
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Substrate will be either eco complete or black fluorite (which I have not yet seen any reviews on).
I have used the new Flourite Dark, and was very happy with it. It required much less rinsing than regular Flourite, and was aesthetically pleasing.

Quote:
Thanks for the good and helpful advice. The reason I was thinking 70 tall is that I can only fit in a 36" long tank (can't do 48"), and I wanted as big of a tank as I could fit in that space. The wetbar is actually pretty low, it's more of a counter-wetbar type thing. Plus I am pretty tall and have long arms. However I still agree that I'd probably need a stepladder (or probably just one of those library step things) to fully work on the bottom of the tank.
For what it's worth, my in-wall aquarium stand is 42" high and the aquarium is 23" high. I have to use a sturdy two step ladder, but it's really not that cumbersome. If it were me, I would probably reduce the height slightly, but I think you could make 25" work.

Quote:
Do you really think more light is necessary than 150W? Is that much light really lost through the extra 7" or so as compared to an 18" high tank? I used to run 300 watts over my 75 regular tank, and found that (with CO2) it was unnecessary and 160 watts of fluorescents was more than adequate. I'm not planning on growing Glosso or other super-low carpet type plants.
I suspect that a 150W would be fine. My opinion is metal halide lighting provides more punch when using the tired old WPG formula. In addition, your substrate depth will reduce the actual working depth. I actually would be more concerned about the width, rather than the depth, as you might have dark edges at 36" wide. Also, the height of the lighting above the aquarium plays a significant role. Your mileage may vary.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 06:54 PM
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I like the sound of it a lot, but I have a few thoughts/suggestions:

1. Go for the Eheim 2128 with the built-in heater. I love mine, and with a tank that visible, the less stuff in the tank, the better.

2. 150W MH is plenty.

3. I'd go with a school of tetras over discus. It'd probably be cheaper, unless you went with really exotic tetras or cheap discus. Plus a 70 would be a bit small for full grown discus (they can reach 8 inches plus).

4. Can't wait to see some photos!

Best of luck!
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, y'all have convinced me on the height. Now I'm thinking of going ADA 90p for the tank, otherwise the same setup, with some cal aqua in/out pipes to the Eheim. That would give me a tank that's effectively 36" by 18" by 18".

Plus, one of the charms of an open-top tank is to look down from above, and to have growth coming out, no? So a shorter tank would be better for that.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 11:41 PM
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If you are going with ADA 90P, then you should use Aqua Soil instead of Flourite Black or Eco-Complete.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting, why?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 05:04 AM
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To make everything ADA! People who have ADA aquarium always have Aqua Soil.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 12:06 PM
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If you are going with ADA 90P, then you should use Aqua Soil instead of Flourite Black or Eco-Complete.
At the risk of going against the grain.....
If you aren't familiar with planted tanks, and water chemistry, I'm going to recommend against AquaSoil. It is a great product that grows plans well, but it plays havoc with your water chemistry. For a noob (sorry Zankou, no offense intended, I don't know how experienced you are with planted tanks) it can cause a lot of frustration, and algae outbreaks. IMO it's an "advanced" substrate.

Just my .02

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