Hair Algae Troubles - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 9
Hair Algae Troubles

I took down my 55g saltwater reef tank out of exhaustion from dealing with hair algae. Figured I would go freshwater planted tank instead. 5 mos later after starting slow then adding some plants and fish, a pressurized CO2 set up my tank looked awesome. now my old enemy is upon me again but this time freshwater hair algae which is clinging to all of the higher plant strands of my corkscrew Val, Red Ludwigia, and moneywort. there are also tufts of a hair like algae clinging to my java ferns. how does one clean up the hair algae. some stats...ph 6.6, temp77, CO2 = 2.5 bubbles per second, lights compact flour. 4 65w (2/50-50, 2/6700) on timer set to light up tank from 11am-10pm. 1/3 volume water changes ea. 3 weeks. wet dry filter through felt, bio ball, then carbon pillow returning to display tank. Fish: 2 Rainbow, 6 rasbora Het, 2 Bala shark, 1 Clown Loach, 1 med pleco, 3 ottos, 1 cory cat. Help me beat the hair algae...any ideas?
cmchap is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 04:17 PM
Planted Tank Obsessed
 
Nbot's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 347
I don't have any definitive answers for you but....

How heavy is your tank planted? Like a thick jungle/dutch tank or just like 6-7 plants? Got a pic? You might want to throw in a bunch of fast growing stem plants to outcompete the algae, then later swap out the stems w/ something else you like

Are you dosing fertilizers? Dry "macro" ferts? I'm assuming you are probably doing "micro" ferts (trace minerals etc) from Kent or etc?

You have a ton of lighting, 4.72wpg! I think there are a lot of poeple that go with such high-lighting setups (most do not), but you have to realize if you are going such high-light, then the margin for error is very small. Planted tanks are about a "balance" between fish load=plant load=co2=fertilizers=light. Lower light gives you more wiggle room to have an inbalance somewhere...higher light will pummel you if you don't have it just right. I don't think many folks go w/ 4.7wpg, and for 11 hours a day, unless you have a TON of plants to eat up the light. I could be wrong here, but I think you need to at a minimum scale back your lighting hours, not have such high watts on 11 hours, maybe only a few hours w/ the full 4.7wpg? You'll have to see what others say.

The basic theory with algae, is that you want the plants to "out compete" the algae. To do this, you have to have the nutients they need (co2, light, fertilizers) so as not to "limit" growth. You aren't doing macro ferts it doesn't look like, so this could be part of your problem...

Go to the "algae" sub-section of this forum, you'll find other links that explain how to deal w/ specific algae's. Also do a "search" for "hair algae", I just did a quick search for "hair algae" (if that is what you have, might also be "clad" or etc), and most folks recommend a) manually removing it 2-3x week, b) getting amano shrimp and maybe SAE's to eat it, c) spot treating with excel (get a plastic syringe, turn off your filter, apply the proper excel dose (5ml) just specifically on the affected area (not onto moss will ruin moss), turn pump back on 15 minutes later. You'll have to search around and make sure that's good advice, but seems about right...

Most algae's do not thrive in the "same" parameters that most plants do (yes, algae's are plants I know...). Many algae's thrive in lower Co2 (BBA) etc...and many algaes seem to thrive when the water parameters are not "consistent." ie, fluctuations in co2: it takes plants time to adjust to different Co2/nutrient conditions, producing enzymes (something like that?) etc to adjust..but the algae being so simple can adjust and thrive very quickly.

So, long story short, you need to provide a consistent and ideal environment for your plants. You should look into "EI" estimative index it is what most folks do here. Do a search for "what is estimative index". That is how most people handle dosing macro ferts in a manner not to build up excessive amounts of ferts, without relying on cheap test kits to tell you where the No3 levels etc are at. You can get dry ferts from www.rexgrigg.com pretty cheap combo pack.

NOTE: To do a *SEARCH* and get the answer you want, its often best to go to "Advanced Search" and search in the title only.
Nbot is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 04:25 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Green Leaf Aquariums's Avatar
 
PTrader: (86/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SWAMP
Posts: 4,701
Excell, time, Excell....
Green Leaf Aquariums is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 04:32 PM
Planted Tank Obsessed
 
Nbot's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 347
oh..and those clown loaches, they shouldn't be kept all by their lonesome! They like buddies, at least a pair, they are VERY social fish and have really interesting behavior. Their black stripes "grey" up when they are 'talking' to each other and they play lots of games wrestling around etc.

I know they get bigger too...so you might have to have a bigger tank in your future plans

Really some SAE (siamese algae eaters) are a great addition to any tank for algae concerns, just make sure you don't get the fake "chineseAE's" that are more gold colored and don't actually eat the algae. I had some minor hair algae a while back, the SAe's would just nibble on it. I would get at least 2 SAE's they are pretty social as well with each other, I have 3.

Amano (algae eating shrimp) are good to have in any tank as well, they are hard-workers...

But I'm not sure that just adding some algae eaters to your tank will fix the imbalance...but perhaps as part of the solution w/ lowering lighting, adding ferts, and EI (weekly water changes) it might...you can do some searches in the lighting area on how much is too much etc, get some other folks advice...

NOTE: To do a *SEARCH* and get the answer you want, its often best to go to "Advanced Search" and search in the title only.
Nbot is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 04:44 PM
Children Boogie
 
mistergreen's Avatar
 
PTrader: (13/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,743
remove what you can.
Less light
more CO2.
And be consistent with ferts


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mistergreen is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 04:50 PM
Planted Tank Obsessed
 
Nbot's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 347
EI: http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/

Also, the CO2 you should have 30 ppm (parts per million). Do you know what your CO2 level is at? There is a "CO2 Sticky" in the "Water Parameters" sub-forum here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/wa...co2-chart.html You may think you are adding in enough Co2, but perhaps not...or perhaps it isn't getting distributed well, and there are dead-spots...

But, you really should get a "drop-checker" from BLACKSUNSHINE, he sells them here on this board for like $10 (do a search), very reasonable. It uses a solution that reacts with the Co2 in your tank, and turns green if ~30ppm, blue if less, yellow if more. No charts, no guessing, and you can just eyeball your Co2 levels, very worth the $10.

NOTE: To do a *SEARCH* and get the answer you want, its often best to go to "Advanced Search" and search in the title only.
Nbot is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 9
I should have mentioned that I am in fact adding fert. a product called Plant Gro from Nutafin Its an Iron enriched 0.15-0-0 food additive containing chelated iron. adding 25 ml ea. 3 weeks. After posting my first post I took the canopy off the tank and dug in with my scissors I cut away some of the more infected plant stems, opened up the aquascape a bit. I don't have a checker for my CO2 levels and I don't have it on a solenoid either so the CO2 pumps in 24-7 I have checked my Ph and don't find tremendous drops overnight so rather than mess around with my all to finicky needle valve nightly I let it run. I forgot that I do have a Chinese Algae eater but suspect hes an imposter. (very gold in color , large, no barbels). LFS do not ever have shrimp except for ghost shrimp on occasion. Thanks for all your help keep it coming if you think of anything else i might try...
cmchap is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 06:33 PM
Planted Tank Obsessed
 
Nbot's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 347
Go to the SwapNShop area, you can get Amano shrimp pretty cheap there.

Your Plant gro is just a "micro" fert right (trace minerals=iron)? If not macros (no3, po4, K, etc), then you are only doing 1/2 the equation? Look up dry ferts here on the board. Look up EI.

NOTE: To do a *SEARCH* and get the answer you want, its often best to go to "Advanced Search" and search in the title only.
Nbot is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2007, 07:12 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
fishscale's Avatar
 
PTrader: (12/100%)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 3,895
What kind of plants do you have in there? If they are hardy, you may want to try peroxide. Do a search for H2O2 on the forum. But be warned: it can be harmful to your fish and your plants. It would probably be best to take the infected plants out of the tank to do this and do a dip.

Hair algae won't go away on its own after you fix the problem. It will stop spreading, but what is there is best removed manually. Algae eaters will get some of it, but you need to get the big clumps. I find using a toothbrush and twirling the strands around the bristles works well. But, the key here is still to find what is not in balance. Usually, it is a macro (NPK), or CO2. Otherwise, after you remove/kill it, it will come back.

Eheim Pimp #254, Eheim Wolverine #1


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Work in progress
10 Gallon Shrimp Tank
10 Gallon Planted QT
20 Gallon Shrimp Tank (Work in progress)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fishscale is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome