Too much light, how to counteract? Algea Problems - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Too much light, how to counteract? Algea Problems

I recently upgraded from a 2.6 wpg lighting setup, which was not nearly powerful enough for me (My tank is quite tall) to a 5.0 wpg setup. This is ALOT of light, and I'm noticing alot more growth and pearling, but my algea is also growing and pearling. How can I counteract this increase of light while still promoting good healthy plants? I've upped my dosages and bought two more pots of glosso, I'm also going to buy another couple batches of red cabomba to suck up more of that light. Will more plants suck up more nutrients, which will in turn will limit the algea growth. I've had a problem with GSA, but now my substrate has been looking gooky with brown stuff, and my white sand is getting green. The algea growing on rocks near the surface of the water is pearling, quite a bit actually. I've got quite a big red cabomba/regular cabomba forest already (so thick you can't see an half an inch into it) but I think I could do with more plants. Any recommendations for plants that suck up ALOT of nutrients?

Thanks.
Charlie

P.s. The lights are a mixture between MH and 6700k PC lights (I think it's 6700k, that sounds right)
Should I alternate my doses at all? I'm dosing one teaspoon and a half of phosphates, every other day, one and a half teasponns of iron every other day, and (i dont know the grams measurement, but I just know how many teaspoons I have of it) 3/4th of a teaspoon of potassium nitrates. I've got good c02 injection, and since I got the lights my pH has gone from 6.1 to 6.4 or 6.5 in a couple days, so I'm definatly seeing an increase of consumption.

Last edited by territhemayor; 10-24-2007 at 04:37 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 02:39 AM
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did you adjust the CO2 injection up? If make take a few adjustments and tests to get the balance right. I recently increased my lighting and experienced algae on the plants- darn...
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 01:19 PM
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Have you considered adjusting the photoperiod?

Maybe putting the lights on different timers.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 01:23 PM
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more light = more everything else.
Light drives the tank. so if you jack that up you need to up your ferts and CO2 accordingly.


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 01:46 PM
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Where did you develop your dosing regimen?

It seems a bit odd to me.

1.5 teaspoons phosphates EOD
1.5 teaspoons FE EOD (I hope not on the same day as the phosphates)
3/4 teaspoon Nitrates EOD

Not knowing what size tank you have it's hard to get into specifics but normally the phosphate dose is much smaller than the nitrate dose. And your iron dose is just nuts. Absolute nuts.

And without knowing what exact products you are using it makes it even harder.

Why not start over and give us complete details on the setup and dosing.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 01:57 PM
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Raise the light higher. Something like a square root of the light gets through for a corresponding raise in light.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 08:23 PM
 
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I agree w/ Rex on this one. We need to know tank size, and the nutrient doses sound way out of whack. And from your own observation your not providing enough CO2. Going from 6.1 to 6.5 means your co2 levels have droped by nearly 50%. You need more co2 for sure.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 10:59 PM
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Thats a whole lot of phosphates!!! Im curious of the tank size.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 11:57 PM
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Agreed more specs needed. Algae loves phosphates.


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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I was under the impression that I should have more phosphates to counteract my GSA (Green Spot algea).
I've got a 105 gallon tank, with 500 watts of light about.
I got this dosing regiment from a friend (He helped me set up this tank, and he has a buisness of doing that so I trusted him) IT was originally 1 tsp iron (I'm using the seachem liquid ferts), 1 tsp of phosphates (also excel) and 4.1 grams of potassium nitrate (His special recipe, dry fert tho). Each one is done three times a week. After I got this boost of lights, I increased each one by half so 1.5 tsp of phosphates (I had low levels the last time I tested my water, which was the day before I bought the new lights)
I'm seeing algae growth on my sand now. I bought some dwarf hairgrass, some blyx japonica, and some more red cabomba plus 2 pots of glosso and another pot of baby tears to try to get some more plants into the tank. I'd like to get some more shrimp and otocincles to help eat this algae. I dont know how I should deal with my c02, I've never had any problems. Basically 6.2-6.5 is fine for me, and I had a drop checker and it was always green, maybe I didn't do it right (I did a whole 4dkh solution with 1 drop of reagent, maybe I'll switch to a 5 dkh with like 3 drops of reagent in it, It's time for me to replace the fluid anyways)
I'll post some pics of the algea and the tank soon, I've got school and stuff so I am REALLY busy.
What dosing regiments would you guys suggest? I want to get dry ferts but I dont know what to do once I get to the storefront for the dry ferts websites.
The ferts are exactly:
Potassium NItrate (KN03), Monopotassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) and Plantex CSM + B Iron with trace.
I've got between 100 and 160 ppm gh, but I have no idea about my kh, it may be high.

The algae isn't a bloom like I've seen some people have, but it does pearl (well with these new lights, everything pearls like never before) and has been growing quite fast. At the top of the substrate, where it touches the glass, I can see this gunk and it's really bothering me. It's green with gsa and brown with god knows what. I want to get this under control
I've upped my Excel doses from 1 capful to 2 to try to counteract this algea, however I highly doubt this was the right thing to do.

Thanks alot


P.S. I've got flourite red substrate and a c02 reactor, not diffuser.


P.P.S I am NOT dosing phosphates and iron on the same day (I'm a noob, but I'm not stupid. Well, I'm not THAT stupid, but I am stupid)
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 02:25 AM
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So you are using Seachem products. That means your 1.5 teaspoons of liquid is actually dosing 0.03 ppm of phosphates in your tank. You should be adding more like 30 times that. Or about 84 ml each dose.

For the nitrates you should be dosing at a minimum of 12 grams per dose.

The Seachem Iron should be dosed at about 2 teaspoons.

So your dosing is off. You have no idea what your CO2 levels are and you have extremely high light. Sounds like a plan for algae to me.

Study up on Estimative Index dosing. At least if you are willing to do the weekly water change.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Ouch, lol. I'm already doing weekly water changes. I know what EI dosing is, I thought I was sort of doing it, although with the wrong doses.

Can you suggest a specific dosing regiment for me to follow? There is a sticky on the forums here with dosing regimes, is that safe for me to follow?
As for my c02, when you mean "You dont know what you're c02 is" does that mean ppm? I am going to resetup my drop checker tommarow, but I should have 30 ppm, which is the norm. OR at least around there, right? But thats what you mean by having c02 under control?

Thanks

EDIT: I see your guide, that will be very helpful. I'm definitely going to check that out asap.

Thanks,
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 03:41 AM
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I'm surprised you didn't have mad algae problems b4 with the husbandry practices you've described, that size tank and 2.65 wpg. You know you don't need to buy more Camboba. You can propagate it yourself. Just cut the stems you have in half and re-plant the tops. BAM, twice the Camboba! And BTW, since your dosing is insufficient, adding to the plant mass will just exacerbate that situation which is more likely to cause Algae then a surplus of nutrients. And you know that if you change to a 5 dKH DC solution, you'll be green at 19 ppm instead of 30 no matter how many drops of regent you add. Do you buy your DC solution? I'm assuming so since you don't know what your tank KH is. You may want to do some more research.

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Last edited by Tdon1md; 08-22-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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I know, I've been doing that with my cabomba already. I'm going to try to fix this dosing problem very quickly, before this weekend, hopefully. I've made AND bought my DC solution. I made it to 4 dkh, and I bought a bottle of 5 dkh solution. It was cheap and it saves me time, however I was under the impression that the higher the dkh in the DC, the more c02 it would take to get to the color green. 4 dkh was 30 ppm, 5 dkh was greater than 30 ppm. I've got to go to bed now, but for tommarow and the next day (in the case of phosphates) I am going to raise my nitrate dose to 12grams, have my seachem iron dose at 2 teaspoons and about my phosphates, I honestly dont know what to do. I'll add the same 1.5 teaspoons for now, and have a short photo period for today. Then when I get back, I'll fix the dosing for the phosphates. Then I'll start getting dry ferts and hopefully fix this problem.

Last edited by territhemayor; 10-24-2007 at 04:40 PM.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 04:02 AM
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If you don't know what your tank dKH is, how did you make the 4 dKH solution? Did you use DI/RO water or tap water? If you didn't use DI/RO water, it's useless. And you were totally right about the 5 dKH solution, I got that backwards, my mistake, sorry! Visit Rex's website link in his signature. He sells dry ferts and has lots and lots of great info about dosing regimens, CO2, etc. He's where I get my ferts and have been VERY satisfied so far. SOOOOOO much cheaper then buying liquid SeaChem ferts. And always such a cheery disposition!

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Last edited by Tdon1md; 08-22-2011 at 01:17 PM.
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