Algae growing on the glass - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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Algae growing on the glass

I have a lot fo algae growing on my glass, does any one know what is it? not enough co2? too much light? too much nutrients?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 04:21 AM
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Pictures? Or a description? Is it hard to remove or soft? Water parameters and lighting would be helpful as well

Mike


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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 04:27 AM
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if these are little green dots on the glass,
that is primarily from too much light, or
too long a light period. some reduce the
dots by simply turning the lights off for
a few hours during the middle of the day.


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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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no, it's not the dots. It's the glass getting green and it gets easily scrapped.

I inject pressurized co2, dosing dry ferts 3 days a week. light is about 500w of metal halides over a 120g.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 05:03 AM
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lower your lights to 300w-400w.
way too much light. You're getting dust algae or fuzz algae. Just scrap it off.


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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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I dont believe it's too much light for this tank and for what I want. I also have a 20g long with a 150w MH and is doing perfectly fine.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 06:08 AM
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eh, up to you if you want algae or not..

the wattage to gallons thing is not an exact science. You adjust things to fit your tank. Metal halides are more intense in light output too.


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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 07:31 AM
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2 x 70 watts MH over 200 gallon is enough (a friend's tank).


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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 08:30 AM
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So my fuzz algae on my glass is simply from too much light / photo period and not an imbalance? 110 watts w/ crappy reflector on my 30G w/ 8-10 hour photo period. (Crappy reflector = single sheet of flat aluminum above all 4 of my lights with no bends). I get very very little pearling w/ injected CO2 and a Yellow Green DC w/ 4 dKH of DI baking soda mix.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 09:07 AM
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it's hard to maintain balance on high light tanks. reducing your lighting period helps.


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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 12:58 PM
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Well, I'll chime in here as I am having the same problem ... GDA on the glass. My question is the same as ganjero's. What is out of balance?

Here's the info:

180 gallon (6' x 2' x2')

lighting: CF retro kits by A.H.Supply ... 2x96w & 2x55 ... I'm running ~200w from 9am to 9pm with ~300w burst from 11am to 2pm.

CO2: pressurized ... ~30ppm (or so the drop checker says).

ferts: macros on M, W, F, micros on T, Th, Sa ... I'm changing ~120 gallons/week via constant drip auto waterchange.

more info https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/yo...do=view&id=447

Less light than ganjero but LOTS of GDA. For the tank to be just "presentable" I need to scrub every other day. If I let it go 4 or more days, the fish become invisible .

As you can see in the link, the tank is fairly well planted, and since that photo, the val has grown in significantly across the back.

I also am running a 55g and a 29g, each of them with 2x55w A.H.Supply Brite kits and I've no algae problems in either. A tiny bit of GSA in the 29 but a scrape when I do the weekly waterchange keeps that presentable.


So, is the consensus truly for a reduction in lighting period? I'm thinking the Blyxa will not be happy with that but it's certain that I'm not happy with the GDA and am willing to try just about anything.

Thanks in advance,

Keep Smilin'
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 01:40 PM
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12 hours is a long time but I understand the rationale w/ only 1is wpg for that long. you might try dropping it down to 10 hours and knocking 1 hour off your midday cycle and see if it slows it any. Then you'll know one way or the other. If you have to scrape it every other day, it won't take long for you to be able to make a comparison.

BTW, my blyxa is doing great on a 8 hour photo period per day so it should be fine ( I would think anyway, no expert on this plant as I just planted it a week or so ago.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 01:51 PM
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hello John

i'm no expert on the balance thing but i found that lowering wattage and keeping the period at 8-10 hours will keep algae in check. maybe it's just me but overstocking the fauna is always my bad habbit as i love fish. then it leads to algae off control.

try a 10 hours lighting period, see if it helps. i had this before but in a way smaller tank (10 gallon). it was planted fairly as yours and i kept the tank's lighting for more than 12 hours. i had no timer and the lighting period was neglected due to my workshifts. i bought a timer later and set the lighting only for 8 hours and it helps.

you can also read something about GDA here.
http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 02:50 PM
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ikuzo: Thanks for the link, I have previously seen one other mention of the solution proposed in the link (do nothing till it peels off and then vacuum it out) but didn't know the source of that advice. Seeing in the link where the advice comes from makes me more comfortable trying it and I can put up with "ugly" for another couple of weeks if it solves the problem. As you can see from the photo below, I've already got a 4-5 day start on the 2-3 weeks needed .



So, I'm going to revise the lighting, not scrape the GDA off, put up with the "uglies" for awhile and I'll let you all know what happens.

Revised lighting:
100w 9a - 9p with 300w burst from 11a - 2p. If need be, I'll reduce the overall period, but I'm at home all day, up before 9 and till well after 9 and every day I'm anxiously awaiting the lights coming on ... If I MUST shorten it, I will, but for me that's a "last resort".

Thanks again ikuzo ...

Keep Smilin'
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It's harder if you're stupid."
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-22-2007, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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I should also clarify that I have that much light but the pendants are hanging about 30" from the water surface, so the par hitting the water is reduced.
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