Reminder to check/replace those check valves! - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Reminder to check/replace those check valves!

I spent several hours last night troubleshooting my pressurized co2 setup. For some reason I found that no co2 was being delivered to the inline atomizer. Turns out I had not one but two check valve failures at the same time.

One was the Ista check valve between the atomizer and the JBJ style bubble counter. The JBJ bubble counter's built in check valve was also stuck. Neither would open even with 30+psi pushing against it from the regulator.

Ended up replacing the Ista with a generic one. The JBJ's check valve was a rubber piston that you can poke out using a bit of wire. Replaced that with a brass NTP check valve.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 03:42 PM
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These are the best ones I have ever used:

They cost $20, but they actually WORK! I believe that they are the same guts as the expensive Dennerle ones (also a good CV).

http://www.aquariumplants.com/THE_BE..._p/cs-3482.htm


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 01:46 AM
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I find the 79 cent ones work well but you've got to put them in the right place so that water doesn't run into them to corrode the spring. Putting it right below the bubble counter is about the worst place for anybody to put a check valve since liquids run downhill most of the time. I'm finding that it works much longer if the check valve is located so the liquid has to run uphill to reach the check valve.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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The point of the check valve is to stop the liquid from rolling back. If your still getting roll back with the check valves in place then your check valve isn't doing its job.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmas_one View Post
These are the best ones I have ever used:

They cost $20, but they actually WORK! I believe that they are the same guts as the expensive Dennerle ones (also a good CV).

http://www.aquariumplants.com/THE_BE..._p/cs-3482.htm
That's a nice one, but I find it just as good to use the cheapest ones you can find. I always run 3 at a time. 1 between the bubble counter and reactor/atomizer, and 2 back to back between the bubble counter and CO2 unit. The second one is the fail safe as it shouldn't be in touch of water unless the 1st one fails.


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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devilduck View Post
The point of the check valve is to stop the liquid from rolling back. If your still getting roll back with the check valves in place then your check valve isn't doing its job.

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I'll agree with this all the way. But then, if we place the check valve so that water has to run uphill , it won't when the space above is sealed like when the solenoid closes. Since we can assume the solenoid is closed as there is gas pressure on the other side, it works much like a glass turned upside down in water. The water won't run uphill due to gravity and it won't siphon uphill because the space inside the tubing is already full of gas. I'm open to ideas of why water would go up and get into the solenoid or reg.

Check valves were needed when we used airpumps setting below tank water level as the water could siphon out and run back through the pump diaphram onto the floor. If we don't put the bubble counter above the solenoid where water or fluid will run down, would we even need a check valve or are we just doing it because we've been trained to do it?
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