distilled or R/O? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2004, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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if I am going to have ammonia and nitrite spikes because of the amount of chloramines in the water, would I be better off using either distiled or R/O water?
Which one is better? do I have to add anything back in to either one?
my primary concern is the fish, Can't think I'm going to have plants left after putting salt in the tank to help the fish thru this nitrite spike.
Am scared to do another water change so close after yesterdays. Fish distressed.
Mouse
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2004, 11:40 PM
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You can use either RO or DI but you can't use it straight. You need to reconstitute it. I am probably one of the few people who use RO/DI and then and use Seachem Equilibrium and Akaline Buffer. I will say that it is a bit of a pain in the neck but it works ( if you need to do it). My tank looks beautiful.

Can't you use something like Amquel or Novaqua to eliminate chlorine and chloromine though?

Ken
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2004, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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I used ammo lock which is supposed to control chloramine chlorine, and ammonia. Now am showing ammonia and nitrites for the first time since the tank cycled. my levels were Scant ammonia before the water change, then it skyrocketted after. Fish are gasping at the top of the tank. am very upset
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 12:25 AM
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Please describe your setup. Why do you have ammonia in the first place? You said your tank was cycled.

Ken
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 12:34 AM
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If I'm not mistaken you have to be very careful which ammonia test kits you use after you use Ammo-Lock or you will get false positive test results.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 12:55 AM
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Rex is right. If you use something like Amquel there is one type of ammonia test kit you can use. The other type gives you false readings. Just tell the LFS etc what you are using and they will tell you which kit to buy.

Ken
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 01:56 AM
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Mousey,
Why not try Seachem's Prime before you start to investigate RO. The prime should take care of the chloramine.

Mike

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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I wish I knew why the ammonia went up! I have not changed any thing i do with the tank except one day a week I give bloodworms. Feeding is the same and all food is consumed within 2-3 min.
The only thing different I used this time to condition the water was Ammolock 2.
It is a 20 gal tank. before water change(30%) the ammonia was less than registered on the AP ammonia test kit. My nitrites were 0. Ph 8.2, slight phosphates. i have 7 neons, 2 glowlight tetras, 4 small blackskirts and 2 SAE"S, 1 baby betta. no new additions- all have been there over 6 weeks.
one otto died suddenly after appearing to bleed internally- got better and then died.
i took a water sample to fish store and got a trace reading of ammonia, whereupon their advice i bought Ammolock and added to tank. everything seemed under control until I did the 30% water change.
Maybe the region added extra chloramines to the tap water. ??
how does one bind up all those ammonias that are freed up by the water conditioners?
Surely they all change into nitrites?Then where are we at?
My tank cycled back in Nov. so something is amiss.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 12:35 PM
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mousey,

Are you reading the replies at all? We have explained how you can get false/positive test results for ammonia a couple of times. A good water conditioner like Seachem Prime will bind up the ammonia into a non-toxic form, then the plants suck it up like no tomorrow.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have read all of the posts. And I understand that amquel etc will give false pos for ammonia as the packet says also. ( have rerad about nessler and salicylate tests. However I have a very hi nitrite spike so it seems that something is amiss in the tank. Something may have happened to the bio filter, I would guess. As i understand the cycle procedure, The bio filter should be able to manage the detoxified ammonia( ammonium)or ammonIA once the initial cycling was done. Therefore i should not be seeing any nitite spikes after a water change.
I have changed the position of the Fluval outlet so it is closer to the water surface and opened the valves up wide. I had them partially shut and also had the outlet valve about 3 inches under the surface of the water, as I read that plants do better this way.Perhaps not enough O2 for the bio filter
Also i am an enthusiastic vaccuumer and someone suggested that perhaps i had removed too much biofilter as I also scrubbed out the slime in my fluval and washed the bio beads a couple of weeks ago so perhaps that is part of the problem.
I am not fond of adding so many chemicals. I thought it was odd that the first time i used the ammo lock that I had stressed out fish and saw a nitrite spike. To this point i had never added anything to detoxify the ammonia released from the chloramine and did ok in the tank.
.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 07:46 PM
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What is your KH?

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