ADA style stand and frameless tank - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-10-2007, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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ADA style stand and frameless tank

Well I decided to get rid of my smaller tank (actually not get rid of, but rather convert it to a turtle tank for my daughter as her turtle is growing fast and will need more room soon).

I went to the local shops about getting a stand and tank I wanted, but the cost was too high and the stick on wood coating just didn't appeal to me. So I made my own.

The pictures of the stand in progress are attached. And I will completely update when I can.




Missing is the door and the paint of course. I will be painting it with the base coat tomorrow and hanging the door after that. The stand is 61cm X 41cm by 84cm high. The tank will be the 61 X 41 x 45cm high.

Have the soil read and waiting (ADA) the filter Eheim 2215 from big tank being moved over and a new Eheim 2217 added to large tank. Co2 5 lbs ready and wood / stones being bought. I will put date pictures when I can. Just doing wood working in a small apartment in Taiwan with a 2 feet wide balcony takes a lot of time and makes a lot of mess.

For this size tank, how much light do you recommend. 4 tubes of 18 watt should be enough or up it to 6 tubes of 18?

Thomas

PS wood is 3/4" (18mm) MDF boards.

I have tested it with my wight 76KG but not sure how much weight I should test it with. 10mm glass 61cm by 41 cm by 45cm high, with stand height of substrate, drift wood, water and plants.
I am still planning on adding a back support brace the width and lengh of the stand and two side braces at the bottom, all of which aren't usually on the stands my by my LFS, and the wood is no where near as thick.

Last edited by tcampbell; 06-10-2007 at 05:11 PM. Reason: adding photos
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post #2 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-10-2007, 05:10 PM
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It's about 30 gallons...~300+ pounds when full.

4 tubes of 18 watts will give you moderate light levels. 6 tubes will bump you up to high light.
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post #3 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-11-2007, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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300 pounds. well I can easily test for that and I know it will hold that even with out extra braces but I will add them to be safe. Thanks

Well the first coat (of two) of a grey colored oil based paint is down. Once that is dried it will be lightly sanded and then repainted. The sanded again and then a coat of spray paint to finish it off.

Haven't fully decided on the final color yet though. Been looking at the grey as I was painting it and like that, then again, I say a blue grey color of spray paint, similiar to a few ADA stands I have seen and I like that as well. Of course there is the standard black that will go with any room and disapear into the background once the tank is set up.



Last edited by tcampbell; 06-11-2007 at 10:46 AM.
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post #4 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 08:22 PM
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I'm not digging the grey... I think you would be better off painting it black, just my 2 cents. BTW, awesome work!

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post #5 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:43 PM
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ADA stands are grey.

And this is an ADA-style stand. Hehe.
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post #6 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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The grey

Actually the grey is just the base coats / Primer coats / sealing coat. I will be painting over it with my chosen color.

I have been debating over this myself.

I believe that in the room I will be having it; the black will make the stand stand-out too much. AS ADA states the stand should be simple and clean lines which will not take the focus off the tank, but rather disappear into the back ground. I am afraid that the Black stand might stand out too much.

I have looked at a "Blue grey color" which is very similar to the grey used in many ADA stands, but I am not sure either. I was thinking if the background of the tank is a deeper blue then this might not be a great idea.

ADA stands are many colors, just needs to be a color which goes well with your home and your style.
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post #7 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfish View Post
ADA stands are grey.

And this is an ADA-style stand. Hehe.
Nah, ADA stands come in diff colors like tcampbell mentioned above. Wood grain/metallic/black/etc.

Instead of black, what about a darker shade of grey?

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post #8 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Yoshi -That is what I am considering, a dark grey color or a blue grey color, similiar to some stands I have seen.
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post #9 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Almost done!

The stand atleast!

Doors hung, stand finished now just need a final color.


Not sure if I will drill holes in the sides for tubes or not. I left a part opened in the middle back so the tubes and co2 can fit up that way even when it is against a wall. will save extra holes.


Can always add them later if necessary.


Tank should be 29 gallons or 110 litres, and 110 litres = 110 KG of water, plus substrate, rocks, drift wood and the weight of the tank itself. I have tested it with my wife and I sitting on the stand = 130KG approx with no problems at all. So the little more when considering substrate, plants and rocks and wood I will test for later)

There is a cross brace along the back top inside of the stand and a down brace along the back straight town to the base of the tank on the inside forming a sort of T for added security. But you can't see that in any of the pictures due to the angle.

How much would a 10mm glass tank 61 by 40 by 45 cm weigh? Always curious. what if it was 8mm glass?

(My tank maker said that they will do it in 8mm if they use glass rods at the corners for support. If not then they will need to do it in 10mm glass. Does that make sense?)
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post #10 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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I would like to have it in 8mm as the glass is less green colored and the weight would be less. But since it is a ADA style stand and the width and lenght of the stand is the exact width and lenght of the tank, it might be better to be be 10mm, that way just incase earthquakes in Taiwan the higher weight might hold it in place better. hahaha

I was told "thicker glass means higher contortion when you look at your tank from an angle. For 12mm, even a 10 deg offset will have a bad bad contortion." True?

They saying that they will guarenttee it will not leak in a few years if 8mm if no braces and no rods and the responsibility is all on me if something goes wrong (which is usually the case here anyway), but if 10mm no

What do most people do to test the stand supporting the with pile 300 plus pounds of bricks on it?
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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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The supports

I am not really worried about the stand and the weight as I think it was built well, as I will explain below, but rather worried about the tank itself before it is built.

8mm glass usually has less distortion and not as green of a color, but one shop says it is ok, the other shop says it isn't.
One says it will need glass rods to support the corners the other says it won't.
One says that it will probably leak in a few years if I use 8mm glass, and the other say 10mm glass will make the tank too heavy and is pointless and 8mm is structurally strong enough to support all the outward force put on it by the water. As the weight of the tank is being supported by the stand and not by the tank itself (Unless it is only being braced at the corners and not on a flat surface - someting not being done!)

These are pictures of the back support which are under the top inside back of the stand.

There is a inner support which goes from top to bottom of the stand to further brace the weight from the top (middle board from above picture)

The front of the stand is supported by two layers of 18mm MDF, so 1 1/2 inches wide screwed together joining the sides, top, and front with 2 inch screws

The back braces, screwed to the sides will hold the sides together so now worries about the stand bending to one side or the other. And since the back braces are at the top and the bottom, each more than 1/3 of the total height of the stand it is well braced. (The opening is to allow heat to escape from the stand, make it a little lighter and give a place to grab when moving the stand) Plus I can use it to route the cords, filter pipes and CO2 if I don't wnat to drill holes in the sides.


Do you think this is not enough?

I have looked at the stands in the shops, and they have no inside back braces, the back is usually just 3 mm thick cheap plywood where mine is a solid back. They usually have an inner back support 1" by the lenght of the inside of the stand to support the whole weight. There is no braces at the bottom of the stand and the wood they use is a lot thinner.

The only place I think might ever have a problem would be the bottom of the stand where the sides join to it, but that would only be a problem if someone was standing on the inside of the stand and trying to lift up the top of the stand while still standing on it. (Unrealistic but it might happen) I will put two 2" by 2" boards to support that joint on each side.
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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 11:16 AM
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its enuff i built my 28 gallon stand like that and it held up really nicely and mine didnt have the extra support
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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for your response. I feel better now.
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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 08:10 PM
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i think you did an excellent job!


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post #15 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-15-2007, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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There are many things I have realized I would have done different if I knew now, so I guess my next stand will be better.
It is a learning process. Like everything esle.

Need to decide clear silicon or black silicon on a 10mm tank now.
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