Can you pump a sump w/ a canister filter? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Can you pump a sump w/ a canister filter?

The better question would be, what are the issues with pumping a sump using a canister filter.

I just bought U tube overflow box to get rid of the junk at the top of my tank. I thought that insted of using its own pump that I may be able to get away with pumping it with the canister filter.

the canister filter output is in the tank, the overflow box brings the water to the sump, and the canister filter intake is in the sump, which goes back to the filter.

As of now it seems to be workng fine, but could there be any issues with this setup?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 12:54 AM
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Main issue IMO is that a canister filter isn't made to lift water several feet. In normal operation, there is zero head for a canister filter. The pump isn't strong enough to work in spec as a sump pump, but if the reduced output is sufficient, go for it. Possible that life of the pump will be somewhat affected.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 01:18 PM
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I'd get a real pump for the sump and use the canister on either the tank or the sump alone. As soon as the canister starts to get a little occluded you are going to run in to problems.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 06:30 PM
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Some have done this before, I might try and dig up the pics. He used a powerhead in the sump and plumbed it into the intake of the canister, basically running both of them in series. The problem I see is that the canister will have a hard time priming without being below the tank, I assume running it with another pump in the sump forces the prime as to get around that problem.

Edit> ok here it is, look at the pic in this post https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/eq...tml#post366311
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:38 PM
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If the canister shuts off is there a check valve to keep the aquarium full and the sump not overflowing?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCMurphy View Post
If the canister shuts off is there a check valve to keep the aquarium full and the sump not overflowing?
Wouldn't that not be a problem as long as the sump is big enough?

I also agree on using a pump... But I don't exactly understand what you mean... If the power shuts off the water isn't being brought back up, so it can't flow back down to the sump, Right?

-Andrew
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fish Newb View Post
Wouldn't that not be a problem as long as the sump is big enough?

I also agree on using a pump... But I don't exactly understand what you mean... If the power shuts off the water isn't being brought back up, so it can't flow back down to the sump, Right?

-Andrew
The post by SCMurphy points out two bad things that can happen. With the power off the canister will return syphon until A) the siphon is broken by the spray bar or B) the tank empties to the level of the highest intake/return.

This can lead 1) the canister burning out as it might not prime or 2) the results of #1 plus lots of water on the floor.

So use your equipment as intended. Either a canister and a sump or the canister on the sump.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCMurphy View Post
If the canister shuts off is there a check valve to keep the aquarium full and the sump not overflowing?
If you were referring to the diagram I linked to then yes there is a check valve shown. Not sure what the big deal is there though, its a cheap part not sure why anyone would really want to chance it without, unless you atleast have a siphon break hole near the surface. There like under $10 at your local hardware store or you can get the fancy clear aquarium ones for about double that online. Actually my local Lowes has 1 1/4" check valves for under a buck! Looks like there clearencing them out. The system really doesnt work any different than it would otherwise. But if it were me I'd just use an appropriate sized return pump and plumb in a non powered canister in the return like an ocean clear or lifegaurd.

Last edited by crazy loaches; 03-19-2007 at 10:47 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy loaches View Post
If you were referring to the diagram I linked to then yes there is a check valve shown.
[]
The system really doesnt work any different than it would otherwise. But if it were me I'd just use an appropriate sized return pump and plumb in a no powered canister in the return like an ocean clear or lifeguard.
The question is if the original post is using a check valve. This detail is not explicitly mentioned. The anti-siphon could be a problem if the filter runs dry.

I agree that plumbing a un-powered canister filter inline is a good alternative. I have a dead 404 waiting for just this purpose.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRam View Post
The post by SCMurphy points out two bad things that can happen. With the power off the canister will return syphon until A) the siphon is broken by the spray bar or B) the tank empties to the level of the highest intake/return.

This can lead 1) the canister burning out as it might not prime or 2) the results of #1 plus lots of water on the floor.

So use your equipment as intended. Either a canister and a sump or the canister on the sump.
Now I see what he was saying... I understand completely!

-Andrew
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the imput. My sump is on a shelf so my intake line is maybe only 1.5' under its org. position, the flow is nearly the same. I'll risk the wear and tear on the filter. I did consider reverse syphon, by positioning the spray bar right below the surface, but did not consider that the filter could burn out, so thank you, I will search for a check valve asap. Does floval make one for their equiptment that will fit on the lines?
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