BBA/ Thread Aglea and Lack of Growth - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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BBA/ Thread Aglea and Lack of Growth

First off, here is a picture of my tank.



~40G Long

~EI dosing
1/2 tsp KN03 - M,W,F
1/8 tsp KH2P04 - M,W,F
1/8 tsp K2S04 - M,W,F
1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements - T,R,Sat
50% weekly water change - M

~KH 16 degrees
~PH 7.0 (tested at lights out when the CO2 kicks off too)
~CO2 48ppm

~Lighting
96W 6,700K - 9.5 Hrs
130W 10,000K - 2 Hrs

~Fish
7 Brilliant Rasboras
5-10 Otos

~Shrimp
5 Amanos
10+ Cherry Red

Most of the plants are growing pretty well. They are not growing out of the tank like they used to but all seem quite healthy with a slower growth rate.

The only ones that are not showing any signs of growth is the section of Wisteria on the far left side of the tank away from the CO2 and filter.

Might this have to do with having less water flow in that section of the tank leading to less CO2 over there?

I am also starting to get some BBA growing on some of the slower growers like the Java ferns, Anubias, and Crypts. Along with the BBA I am gettings some random growth of a long dark stringy algea that pops up here and there normaly around Java fern on the right side.

~Should I up my CO2 more to try and get rid of the BBA?
~Could my Ferts be off?
~Does water flow have a part in this?
~Would the lack of plant growth from the Wisteria mean less plant mass to light/ferts ratio?

Any ideas or thoughts are more than welcome. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 03:45 PM
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I've just recently switched to using a drop checker for CO2 levels due to the KH/pH relationship being inaccurate. Still trying to get the drop checker figured out myself , but it could determine more clearly what your CO2 levels are.

Also, what type of filtration are you using? Pressurized CO2 or DIY?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 04:43 PM
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I continue to wrestle with on and off BBA and my CO2 levels. From what you've stated, I'd personally start with increased CO2 and increased circulation. It seems my BBA typically thrives in (what I'm guessing are) low flow areas of my tank. As to CO2 levels, I still have 'add a CO2 Drop Checker' on my to to list.

Keep us posted!
Brian.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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I knew I forgot something!

The CO2 is pressurized so it should be staying pretty stable.

The filter is an Odyssea 4 Canister.

I guess the next two plans of action is to up the CO2 a bit more and start looking for a small power head to hide in the tank.

Thanks for your help StrikeEagle1 and BBS.

Any other thoughts are more than welcome too.

Also what is this drop checker thing? Anyone have a link?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:30 PM
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Hmmm, didn't realize that Hoppy put this DIY thread over on APC. Take a look here: DIY Drop Checker - Aquatic Plant Central- aquascaping...a living art
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:30 PM
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Doug, tank looks great as usual. I can answer that he does have pressurized co2, and uses the microbubble diffuser last time I checked. I sympathize with Brian about needing a drop-checker, and with KH levels that high I would definitely go that route.

Also, interesting point about wisteria growth/lackthereof. If the right side (close to the co2) grows considerably faster than the left side (opposite of co2) and they get the same amount of light, I'd say you've just narrowed it down to a combination of low co2/low flow.

EDIT: DOH! double ninja'd!!!!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 09:02 PM
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BTW, BBA loves current and light. Best way to defeat (not a cure) is the direct chemical warfare method. A few mls of straight Excel squirted directly on it with a dosing syringe, after the filter is off (to shut down current). After five or ten minutes you can turn the filter back on. In a day it turns red and is DEAD. Then it turns white and Shrimp and some fish will graze on it then. SAEs will eat it too, when its alive, but they have to be starved to eat it and they are pigs, so thats hard to do in a community tank.

Your tank looks nice, but it sounds like some pretty hard water.





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 12:08 AM
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Betowess, what type of driftwood is in your 90g picture from you signature link? Also, what types of plants (common name) are in there? I like and would like to switch out my driftwood to manzanita and add more plants
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeEagle1 View Post
Betowess, what type of driftwood is in your 90g picture from you signature link? Also, what types of plants (common name) are in there? I like and would like to switch out my driftwood to manzanita and add more plants
Sorry to hijack...Briefly,the wood is a root burl of Manzanita. I asked Rich, the owner of Manzanitaburlworks.com for a more substantial piece instead of the usual branch assortment. I'll pm you with a plant listing.





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......

Last edited by Betowess; 01-07-2007 at 05:22 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 03:25 PM
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Sorry for the hijack guys....Wingdlc I also have high kH so am battling some of your same issues. One thing I got the drop checker for is to really know if the CO2 was doing well. Right now I'm getting the drop checker working and also slowly upping the CO2 to see how the fish do. Hopefully I can use the drop checker to make sure I get in the 40ppm range before the fish start to get distressed. The tables haven't been that accurate for me.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeEagle1 View Post
...I also have high kH so am battling some of your same issues. One thing I got the drop checker for is to really know if the CO2 was doing well...
Interesting, and you hail from FL as well. Would love to hear back what you end up with in regards to KH/pH once the drop checker has you in a good range. I've got KH in the 8-9 range, and with my CO2 at 6.0 (per my recently recalibrated SMS122) it stills seems like my CO2 levels are a bit low.

Might need to start a new thread on this one!
Brian.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys and the link. No worries about the hijack!

We actually have the Red Sea drop checker where I work. I have never pay much attention to it because I thought the PH/KH charts worked fine.

As of the other day I turned up the CO2 a bit. Last night the PH was down to 6.6. The fish seem fine. That would put the CO2 at 76.1 ppm.

I am still in the market for a small powerhead. I really don't want to look at one in the tank though. I will have to find a way to hide it.

So far no change in BBA. I will probably try to remove and kill it with excel on monday when I do my water change.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-17-2008, 12:47 PM
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SAEs will eat it too, when its alive, but they have to be starved to eat it and they are pigs, so thats hard to do in a community tank.
I can tell you from experience that this was very true for me. They got fat and stopped eating the algae as much. They were eventually traded.
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