EI Indexing.... Am I doing it right? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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EI Indexing.... Am I doing it right?

I am on week three of using Greg Watson dry ferts. I am not dry dosing, I am using a premix (two weeks worth mixed at a time). Here is what I am doing using 500ml of bottled water for both mixes:

KNO3 - 3 tablespoons
KH2PO4 - 1 tablespoon
K2SO4 - 1 tablespoon

On Sun, Tues, Thurs I am adding 80ml of liquid to my tank

CSM+B - 1 Tablespoon
Magnesium Sulfate - 1 Tablespoon

On Mon, Wed, Fri I am adding 80ml of liquid to my tank.

Both mixes are kept in glass bottles in the fridge **Marked with skull and crossbones and kept in brown bags on the door!!

Plants are doing ok, but green algae on sides of glass and fighting BBA with Excel. I just wanted to ensure that my mixes were okay. I got the either off Greg's site (CSM mix) and

Estimative Index Dosing Guide - Aquatic Plant Central- aquascaping...a living art

(also on week 3 of CO2 with a recent addition of a DiabloCanine Reactor at 3bps as well as a Tetra UV1)

My water is not as clear as I would like. Possibly due to not running charcoal in my filters? (was told not a good thing when dosing ferts)

Any comments or corrections to my method, please let me know.

Thanks,

Ted
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 04:04 PM
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Ted, without knowing the size of your tank it isn't possible to judge your dosing.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ooops.. Sorry.

120 gallon. I will update my sig.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 06:47 PM
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Hey Ted, looks good to me, calculating in my head.
The BBA was a prob before you had things running right, so keep treating that with excel and pruning.
The water will clear up, give it time. Don't use charcoal just wait it out.
The same is true for the GDA ...the green dust algae on your glass. That has to run its course. You literally have to leave it alone and let it get gross for 2 weeks or so, no matter how bad it gets, don't disturb the spores. Once it makes it through its lifecycle they will die off so then after 2 weeks or so undisturbed, you can scrape it off and it should be gone then.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fresh_newby View Post
The same is true for the GDA ...the green dust algae on your glass. That has to run its course. You literally have to leave it alone and let it get gross for 2 weeks or so, no matter how bad it gets, don't disturb the spores. Once it makes it through its lifecycle they will die off so then after 2 weeks or so undisturbed, you can scrape it off and it should be gone then.
Hmm, I have what looks like green spot algae on my glass, was I supposed to leave it alone?? I have been cleaning it off when I water change....DOH!
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 02:29 PM
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The more you disturb the spores, the more they break off and initiate a new life cycle to perpetuate the madness. Just leave it. It will be a true test of patience Sometimes it gets so bad you can't even see through the glass. You can do water chanes, just don't disturb the GDA on the glass. Do a search on GDA and read up on it at www.barrreport.com I believe they all agree with this line of thinking.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 03:10 PM
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I just scrape it off the glass every 5-7 days. It usually doesn't get too bad. I find it hard to believe that leaving it alone will cause it to just go away. I've had the same thing for longer than I can remember. Even in a tank without any, it can just pop up and start growing at will. Similar to water changes, I've just learned to accept scraping algae off the sides of the tank as one of the chores with having a planted tank.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 03:44 PM
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nope....Tom Barr has reproduced the same results using this method. You accept it as being the way things are, but that itself is unacceptable. The only way to move forward is to learn, test, reproduce....
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 05:11 PM
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GSA and BBA, sounds like an issues with CO2...........there lies the issue, not the dosing of the ferts(other than CO2).

Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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CO2 is in progress (reactor + increasing slowly).

Sigh.... Every time I post something it turns into a Science vs Religion dispute.

You go girl!

I'll give it a shot (no touching) and see what happens. Something is off in my tank as the haze will not go away.

Thanks again.

Ted


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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 06:19 PM
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CO2 is off....that is the issue.
When algae has all nutrients and the plants lack CO2 the algae gets a chance to take hold. You need to get that CO2 going....how many bps are you now? IS your reactor installed?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I did not explain that very well.

I am using CO2, just recently transitioned from Rena Micro Bubbler under spray bar to DiabloCanine Reactor. There have been no outages of CO2 since installed.

Currently I have it set at 3.5bps (was at 3 with very little pearling). PH is around 6.4-6.6 (previous reading, most likely closer to 6.4 now). I shut off at night and run an air stone on timer(s).

Thanks,

Ted


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 06:29 PM
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what is your KH?
Also have your CO2 turn back on an hour before your lights do otherwise it takes hours to get enough in the column.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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KH Approximately 1.5 (well, something greater than 1 and less than 2).

I guess I could get another timer...

Ted


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-24-2006, 07:59 PM
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A larger tank like this would do better and you'd have more fun likely switching to a couple of beetle like diffusers in each corner.

The ebay Rhinox 1000's would be fine, but if you want the larger 5000's they are good too. Run about 10-20$ ea, nice looking, good as ADA's, get 2 needle valves for each and run them into the return current downward.

That KH suggest you need a pH of closer to 6.0-6.1 if you ask me.
The diffusers suggested above will make things grow better and be a bit easier most likely.

I've never found any need for aeration at night even with large fish loading, some decent surface movement takes care of any of that, we can always add a bit more CO2(you cannot reanimate dead fish though), and if done directly into the tank itself, the degassing issue is less of a problem.

I place a inflow from the return, canister filters(2 would be nice in this tank) etc in each corner and have a hole or two so that the surface moves good and then most of the flow travels downwards at about 30-45degree angle and hits the mist coming up from the diffuser plate so that the mist is well blasted throughout the tank from each side.

This will blast the CO2 in both the dissolved form and the mist form into the plants and slowly rise up hitting the lower sides of the leaves where the stomata are present/where the gas is taken in by the plant leaves.
Works extremely well.

Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
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