Two CO2 for Hagen Reactor - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hey all,

I just added an additional co2 line using a DIY co2 system to my Hagen nutrafin one. The bubbles are flowing through the reactor from both units. My question is: Will this limit the amount of CO2 being disolved in the tank because there are so many bubbles going up the reactor that they don't have enough time to dissolve? I could always just divert it through the intake. But I thought that this way would be quiter.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 09:46 PM
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When I was using that reactor I had it set so that it would go up one level somewhat fast and move up the next one very slowly. The bubbles were very small by the time they reached the top of the reactor. I would recommend trying to adjust the positioning of the reactor to see if it helps.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 02:38 AM
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If the bubbles are the same size to start with they ought to run up the ramp at the same rate, dissolving at the same rate.

For some reason, when I did that, the DIY bubbles were bigger to start with, then overtook the other units bubbles and made one bigger bubbble that went up so fast it didn't dissolve much.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 12:40 PM
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I didn't leave the "ladder" straight, I had it very slightly tilted so that one level went slower than the other.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 02:01 PM
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I keep my 'ladder' as straight as possible. When these units are new, the bubbles won't travel properly for the first couple of days, until a little bit of slimecoat builds up, then they'll travel correctly.
Putting it off kilter shouldn't really help dissolve that much extra CO2. I'm sure it went up one ramp twice as fast as normal, and then half as fast on the other side. Total time the bubble spends in contact with water is the same, so the CO2 diffusion should be about the same.

I put mine in the corner, so I could put the side against the wall of the tank, making it level to begin with. So far it has served me well.

You might want to make a gas separation chamber, which puts more pure CO2 into the tank.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 02:49 PM
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IME the second level went much slower and as more gas dispersed and the bubbles shrunk they went even slower. They were definitely much smaller when they reached the top of the ladder when tilted than when straight.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think that the fisrt couple of days when the bubbles are getting stuck are actually worsened by a tilted co2 ladder. The slime coat will eventually appear no matter what angle the ladder is. If you get concerned, why not put the ladder in a couple of days before you actually attach the co2 line? That should give it enough time to establish as lime coat.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 06:43 PM
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George,
all I know is that with my ladder being level, my CO2 eventually skyrocketed to 80ppm due to too little surface agitation. If you feel it worked better for you, then more power to ya. I just wanted to make the point that it really isn't necessary. putting in a gas separation chamber between the CO2 bottle and the diffuser will give you as close to pure CO2 as you can get without a pressurized tank. I use a 1gallon glass jug for my CO2 generator, and get 1 bubble every 1.5-2 seconds, and my CO2 levels are around 30ppm now.
thankfully no fish were lost when it was at 80ppm, though I did lose 3 green barbs in the last week...which may have been damaged by the CO2 levels and never fully recovered. *shrugs*
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 07:58 PM
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Thanks Malkore,

I wasn't saying it didn't work for you, only what worked for me. I was only using the little hagen thing on a 29 and that maximized the co2 absorption for me until I went pressurized and didn't have to worry about it anymore.

George


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-10-2003, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malkore
, and get 1 bubble every 1.5-2 seconds, and my CO2 levels are around 30ppm now.
thankfully no fish were lost when it was at 80ppm, though I did lose 3 green barbs in the last week...which may have been damaged by the CO2 levels and never fully recovered. *shrugs*
have you checked the KH lately?
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-10-2003, 04:22 PM
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Yep, and my Kh has always stayed at a steady 8degrees, same as the tap water. i do weekly 25% water changes. It should take Kh a fairly long time to actually drop due to things like the bacterial processes that are taking place.
My wife's tank dropped to 3 degrees which I think was due to her flourite substrate. Several weeks/water changes later and it's at 7.5 degrees, and no longer dropping, so I suspect after this weekend it will be sitting pretty at 8degrees.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 04:18 AM
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I've never heard of Flourite dropping kH. I have however heard of large populations of MTS causing drops in kH.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 12:52 PM
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Hey Rex, any idea how MTS would drop the KH? Is it because of the shells being made by so many snails?

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 02:32 PM
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George.

You hit the nail on the head. I had this happen in one of my tanks. I could not figure out what was happening. Finally one night I walked in the room and all the visible glass was covered in MTS. I knew I was not feeding them enough to cause that so I calmly asked the wife if she was feeding the fish also. Turns out she was. It was when I had only one tank and she liked seeing the fish come to the front of the tank and as she told me they always looked so hungry.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 03:35 PM
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LOL Rex....That's what I have to tell every member of my house. I have banned them all from ever feeding the fish unless I specifically say: "can you feed the fish for me tonight?" They also tell me that too: "But they look so hungry!"

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