6 tanks in disarray...overwhelmed!!!! - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
seastar0328's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to seastar0328 Send a message via MSN to seastar0328 Send a message via Yahoo to seastar0328
6 tanks in disarray...overwhelmed!!!!

6 of my 7 tanks are in total disarray, each with different problems. I want to know what the best way to remedy these tanks are without spreading each thing to each tank through use of python/water changing equipment. Buying 6 or 7 pythons is not financially possible. Here is the brief overview:

Tank 1: 35 gal hex, heavily planted, every algae known to humankind and then some. Still trying to find a balance in this tank, I know I need to figure this one out on my own. But it has NO ONE-CELLED ALGAE which leads to my concern of tank 2. Fluorite, 96 watts, 10,000K, 6.2pH, 80 F.

Tank 2: My boyfriend's 72 gal lake malawi cichlid tank. Previously not planted but he got jealous of mine so he has a few plants in there. Ever since then he's had horrible one-celled algae. I don't want this in any of my other tanks. onyx sand, 75 F, 8.5 pH

Tank 3: 2 1/2 gal plant Q-tank horrible white hydra/mold looking things I explained in a previous post. No fish in here but don't want this spread to other tanks. All plants will be thrown out in here will probably clean it out and start over.

Tank 4: 5.5 gal planted two apisto cacs set up to "do their thing". Noticing some of this white hydra/mold stuff in here but still able to be controlled. Play sand, 15 watts, 6.8 pH, 78 F.

Tank 5: 20 gal long for apisto cac babies. Evil male housed in here with some plants. HORRIBLE outbreak last week of white hydra/mold things all over glass and items in tank. Left alone with lights out and they seemed to mostly die, scraped clean and water changed again tonight. 36 watts, pH 6.8, eco complete and moon sand, 78F.

Tank 6: 5.5 gal malawi cichlid and newly hatched fry. Fish don't permanently stay here, it's a medium between holding and grow-out. This too is my boyfriend's. He sucks at water changes and let moldy food just sit in there. I checked on them today he's out of town, did a major overhaul of tank. Female msobo (sp?) has fungus on her, and tank sealant is covered in fungus as well as the substrate. I figure her eggs she's holding are probably infected as well.

Tank 7: 15 gal tall nothing wrong, want it to stay that way!

I am buying net clean tomorrow. I do not want to spread the one-celled algae or the fungus or hydra. I am thinking since we use the same python that even though I may empty all the water out that some plant matter etc. just stays in there and gets gross. I have developed a plan of action as to the order in which these tanks are cleaned but the next time I use it if I do the nastiest tanks last, this stuff is still in the tubing. Will bleaching it and rinsing well work or what kind of products do you recommend? As far as the mold/hydra things I don't want to treat the planted tanks if I don't have to because research proved that it would eliminate the nitrates/nitrites and send everything out of balance but if it is bad enough I want to find a solution. I will not be using any chemical to get rid of the algae, what he does with his tank is his business I guess I can only give so much of my opinion. The fungus in his holding tank needs to be eliminated since the female is infected and the fry in there and the eggs she's holding probably will be/are too. What in your experience is the most safe/gentlist product to use on fish in this condition that can treat the tank as well? I'm sorry this is so long but it's bugging the crap out of me and I just want to take everything and throw it out the window!!!! I love this hobby so I know my anger will pass but this is so frustrating, I'm overwhelmed! Thanks in advance.
seastar0328 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 02:40 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
jhoetzl's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Scotch Plains, NJ
Posts: 1,020
Send a message via MSN to jhoetzl
Are you injecting CO2 into any of these tanks?
Any fertilizers?
Lighting on timers? How long?
Tap water? Treated with _____ ?

I would think we'll need some further info to start debugging this one...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jhoetzl is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
seastar0328's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to seastar0328 Send a message via MSN to seastar0328 Send a message via Yahoo to seastar0328
I'm more concerned with the spreading of the hydra/mold-like substances from tank to tank. But here is more information if you would like it.

Tank 1: 96 Watts, 10,000K, 8 hour photoperiod. EI ferts, DIY CO2 1 gallon with hydor submersible powerhead - great fine bubble delivery with more than enough CO2 in this tank...any more would make my pH go below 6-placed in the bottom center of my tank. Water changes done with conditioned tapwater. Sometimes we use prime, sometimes we use aquasafe, sometimes we use Novaqua, sometimes we use Stress Coat. Whatever we can get in bulk on sale we purchase. This tank, however, also gets blackwater extract at the time of the first water change of the month. Water changes done weekly @ 50%. eheim classic.

Tank 2: (boyfriend's) Photoperiod? Regular T-8 flourescent 6700K light bought at hardware store. Water changes happen whenever he feels like it. He doesn't let it go more than 2 weeks but he has pushed it. No CO2, maybe some flourish every once in awhile. Conditioned tapwater conditioned with products mentioned above. Biowheel 350 or 400 filter?

Tank 3: 15 Watts, 8 hour photoperiod, no CO2, flourish dosed every other day. Not a tank of concern, just a Q-tank. Water changes 50% once a week with conditioned tapwater from products mentioned for tank 1. No filter.

Tank 4: 15 Watts, 8 hour photoperiod. DIY CO2 from small gatorade jug with ceramic airstone. Lightly planted. Lightly fertilized because I am more concerned with breeding in this tank and don't want to change the water conditions too much, the plants are more just cuttings from other tanks there to make them feel secure. 10% water changes every other day with RO water every other water change. The tapwater is conditioned with products mentioned for tank one on the days RO is not used. Blackwater extract added weekly. Aquaclear mini filter.

Tank 5: 36 Watts, 8 hour photoperiod, lightly planted. CO2 is diy with 1 gallon jug and ceramic airstone. EI ferts. Weekly 50% water changes with conditioned tapwater using products used in tank 1. Blackwater extract used weekly. Whisper 20 and whisper 10 pf.

Tank 6: (Boyfriend's) Lighting is reg flourescent lamp maybe 15 watts. Photoperiod varies? No plants, no ferts, no co2. Water changes were daily and they are again now since I'm watching them and he's gone. Conditioned tapwater with products used in tank 1. Aquaclear mini filter.

Tank 7: 30 watts, 8 hour photoperiod. DIY co2 with 1 gallon jug and ceramic airstone. EI ferts. 50% weekly water changes with conditioned tapwater using products mentioned in tank 1. penguin mini biowheel filter.

If needed, tanks 1, 4, and 5 will have acid buffer added to them to make their pH lower but tank 1 hasn't needed it since the new CO2 injection method. Tanks 4 and 5 will have the buffer though if their pH gets above a 7. I only add the recommended dose daily until target is reached. All tanks specs are monitored as best we can but at the very least, once a week. pH for me is monitored almost daily. I hope this helps.
seastar0328 is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-13-2006, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
seastar0328's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 284
Send a message via AIM to seastar0328 Send a message via MSN to seastar0328 Send a message via Yahoo to seastar0328
does anybody have ANY advice on the best way to prevent spreading things from tank to tank via water changing equipment like pythons? I'm really in hell here.
seastar0328 is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-13-2006, 11:58 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (60/100%)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: HI
Posts: 706
i just use 1/2 or 5/8" tubing to siphon water, its cheap and you can buy a bunch and cut one length of tubing for each tank if you choose. as for the bucket, buy a couple of cheapo orange bob the builder 5-gal buckets or what ever the heck home depot call those things (like 3 bucks each) use one for dumping only and one for adding new water, never mix the two. or you could use bleach to sanitize the tubing/bucket after each use.

good luck with the mold/hydra thing, i had it to on my new driftwood but once i added in some shrimp and got ferts right it went away on its own.
dhavoc is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-14-2006, 12:07 AM
Everyone has an opinion
 
DiabloCanine's Avatar
 
PTrader: (88/100%)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Greenwood
Posts: 1,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by seastar0328
does anybody have ANY advice on the best way to prevent spreading things from tank to tank via water changing equipment like pythons? I'm really in hell here.
Maybe this instead of a python



Journal and instructions available in the DIY section of my sig.....DC
DiabloCanine is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-14-2006, 12:49 AM
Wannabe Guru
 
BlueRam's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,666
Sounds like you have a lot going on.

Hydra: really likes overfeeding and lack of predators in my tanks (ie shows up most in my fry tanks). Does 1/2 strength "fluke tabs" Don't assume it is safe for everything.

Mold: Sounds like the food? Maybe fish waste? Try swapping to a different food and see if it goes away. MIGHT be a problem where the filter is not established or cleaned too aggressive to often.

Algae crew: The standards are SAE, ottos, Amano shrimp etc. I see algae only where they can't reach.

You post "If needed, tanks 1, 4, and 5 will have acid buffer"
-This should be avoided as most are phosphate based. I think I induced a green water bloom with pH down once...

Use DI to breed the Apistos in tank 5. I know my rams preferred soft over low pH for egg viability.

Pictures will help a lot here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by seastar0328
does anybody have ANY advice on the best way to prevent spreading things from tank to tank via water changing equipment like pythons? I'm really in hell here.

Moved to Tucson.
BlueRam is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome