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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-02-2006, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Cloudy water

I noticed my water is becoming cloudy perhaps tints of green. I have a CO2 reator connected to my canister. My light is on 9 hours a day with 220watts for a 110 gallon tank.

Thanks.

110 gallon Discus tank
65 gallon Discus tank
30 gallon Discus tank
20 gallon standby tank
10 gallon quarantine
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riche_guy
I noticed my water is becoming cloudy perhaps tints of green. I have a CO2 reator connected to my canister. My light is on 9 hours a day with 220watts for a 110 gallon tank.

Thanks.
If it really has a green tint, you may be getting greenwater which is a bacterial bloom. Do a 50% water change and see if that helps. Additionally you should check your ferts levels to be sure that nothing is out of line.

If you have either a micron filter or a UV filter, you might try turning them on.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparrow
If it really has a green tint, you may be getting greenwater which is a bacterial bloom. Do a 50% water change and see if that helps. Additionally you should check your ferts levels to be sure that nothing is out of line.

If you have either a micron filter or a UV filter, you might try turning them on.
all of thats great advice. also add some good ol filter floss that helps alot. but gw means you have either too much light and out of wack water collum or not enough plants... or a few of the above.

some filter feeders could help you like bamboo shrimp and fw clams. also water fleas will eat it.

i have it alot. just do lots of water changes and stuff. it will eventually just go away on its own.

-=- fish newb -=-

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fish Newb
all of thats great advice. also add some good ol filter floss that helps alot. but gw means you have either too much light and out of wack water collum or not enough plants... or a few of the above.

some filter feeders could help you like bamboo shrimp and fw clams. also water fleas will eat it.

i have it alot. just do lots of water changes and stuff. it will eventually just go away on its own.

-=- fish newb -=-

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I use to have the light on for 13 hours a day. I have changed it to 9 hours and there are plenty of plants in the tank. I had this setup for at least 2 to 3 month with no problem until this week. I can't see any changes. Would a UV light be something worthwhile??

110 gallon Discus tank
65 gallon Discus tank
30 gallon Discus tank
20 gallon standby tank
10 gallon quarantine
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riche_guy
I use to have the light on for 13 hours a day. I have changed it to 9 hours and there are plenty of plants in the tank. I had this setup for at least 2 to 3 month with no problem until this week. I can't see any changes. Would a UV light be something worthwhile??
im not too sure... im thinking about getting one. some people say they arent good because the fish's immune systems get low...

also that light is on wayyy too long. 12-9 is much better generally.

-=- fish newb -=-
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 01:07 AM
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UV filters are a good tool, but should not be used 24/7.

They are useful for getting rid of greenwater, and for combating other pathogens such as ich while it is in its "transmission" phase.

If you do run one, you should be aware that they promote the oxidization of iron, so you may need to redose iron after using it.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparrow
UV filters are a good tool, but should not be used 24/7.

They are useful for getting rid of greenwater, and for combating other pathogens such as ich while it is in its "transmission" phase.

If you do run one, you should be aware that they promote the oxidization of iron, so you may need to redose iron after using it.
Just like I thought. You do one thing then there is a problem. You fix the problem then it creates another problem. the you fix that then there is something else that must be done. Just like a chain. Is there ever an end?

110 gallon Discus tank
65 gallon Discus tank
30 gallon Discus tank
20 gallon standby tank
10 gallon quarantine
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 01:22 AM
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Just like I thought. You do one thing then there is a problem. You fix the problem then it creates another problem. the you fix that then there is something else that must be done. Just like a chain. Is there ever an end?
I think the redosing of the iron is pretty much the end of it.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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I think the redosing of the iron is pretty much the end of it.
Cool. How much is a UV filter?

110 gallon Discus tank
65 gallon Discus tank
30 gallon Discus tank
20 gallon standby tank
10 gallon quarantine
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 02:08 AM
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It depends

You need to match the wattage of the filter you buy to whatever filter or pump that you will use to pump water through it.

Look at the Coralife TurboTwist models. They have a good reputation for reliability.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 05:09 AM
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put some tank water in a white bowl ........then you will know for sure if its gw
read this https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/al...ht=green+water
and this https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/wa...ght=sterilizer

30 gallon pita...102watts..pressurized co2 ...jbj regulator...eco-complete substrate...xp-2... inline c-02 reactor...turbo twist uv
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 05:27 AM
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blackouts work at first from what I have seen. But eventually it's just not enough light anymore for your plants or fish for that matter. Everyone I asked and all I experiences was that water changes only added to the problem in the long run, but it's not a BAD idea. upping the fers doseage is definatly worth a try...for chemical reasons that I don't want to explain...but it works too. But for me the only long term cure has been the introduction of the UV sterilizer. It kills the source of the problem, a bloom of bacteria...or diatoms. I now have crystal clear water...but only after a few water changes and lots of carbon filtering. I totally recommend it, I have one that does run 24/7 but I'm thinking of turning it off for a few days to see if the GW comes back. By the way after using the UV the fish seem a lot healthier and a lot more responsive to feeding...It was my cure...it may be yours (expecially on larger tanks where 90% water changes are a little more tedious)

dave
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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blackouts work at first from what I have seen. But eventually it's just not enough light anymore for your plants or fish for that matter. Everyone I asked and all I experiences was that water changes only added to the problem in the long run, but it's not a BAD idea. upping the fers doseage is definatly worth a try...for chemical reasons that I don't want to explain...but it works too. But for me the only long term cure has been the introduction of the UV sterilizer. It kills the source of the problem, a bloom of bacteria...or diatoms. I now have crystal clear water...but only after a few water changes and lots of carbon filtering. I totally recommend it, I have one that does run 24/7 but I'm thinking of turning it off for a few days to see if the GW comes back. By the way after using the UV the fish seem a lot healthier and a lot more responsive to feeding...It was my cure...it may be yours (expecially on larger tanks where 90% water changes are a little more tedious)

dave
Can you tell me more about your UV setup. How much does that cost and what I would need for a 110 gallon tank?

Thanks.

110 gallon Discus tank
65 gallon Discus tank
30 gallon Discus tank
20 gallon standby tank
10 gallon quarantine
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 07:05 AM
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well I can tell you what MINE was like. I got two "Current USA" UV sterilizer from ebay, one 8 watt and one 15 watt. The 8 is for my smaller reef tank (not put up yet do to a break in the cap) and the 15 was for my 75g planted tank. I GOT them for the planted tank due to a massive 2 month battle with GW. I tried EVERYTHING. And I saw a thread on here about a guy who put a UV light inline and it cleared right up. So I did too. I put the UV inline on the Other XP3 (not the one with CO2) and plummed it on the intake line (not sure if this was wize). I had a little trouble getting the siphon to work again...took a couple of positions changes...and not it's running smoothly. My wife was really hoping it would work too, she didn't want me to be frustrated anymore, and she was worried that I may have wased my 75 dollars on these two things. (yes together from ebay at around 75.00) The first day or three were minimal changes...then on the fourth day or so I started to see more than an inch into the tank again. I could see a plant or two. then after about another week the water was just White cloudy...like a haze. So that's when I did a couple of good water changes (about 40-50%) for two days...really getting the debris up. I noticed that most of my plants had a lot of dyeback...so I also did a huge pruning job. After the second water change I added new carbon to each filter. And waited again to see what happened. The water cleared right up and not with such clarity...the glosso I had been hating and wanting to tare out started to finally grow horizontally. Now I'm back to the process of stocking the tank with cherry reds...(vinnymac is the man)...rummy nose...and discus. After the inital clear up I ordered 30 more cardinals and have only lost like 4, the first shipment was a little more than half mortality rate. So my water is now a lot more stable and my fish are happier. Now I don't know what to do with all the red growth in the plants...(I found out they are supposed to do that, but man it's really red). like I said it was my cure...it may be yours too. either way it's not a bad device to have around for emergencies...your quarantine tank could always be more sterile.

dave
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparrow
If it really has a green tint, you may be getting greenwater which is a bacterial bloom. Do a 50% water change and see if that helps. Additionally you should check your ferts levels to be sure that nothing is out of line.

If you have either a micron filter or a UV filter, you might try turning them on.
wouldnt green water be a algae bloom and white cloudy water be a bacterial bloom.
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