Inlet/outlet positioning with multiple canister filters - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Inlet/outlet positioning with multiple canister filters

I'm interested in how people with 2 (or more) canister filters position the inlets and outlets of each.
In particular, how they interact with overall flow in the tank.

I have 2 Fluval 404s on a 90gal.
Filter 1 is on left of the back wall with it's nozzle towards the front. Filter 2 is on the right with it's nozzle parallel to the back wall, pointing towards filter 1. This creates a large circular flow in the tank.
The inlets of each are next to their respective outlets, but at a lower level.

I'm considering other options.
Perhaps putting inlets and outlets together, or let each filter create a circular flow in half the tank?

There's lots of options but I wonder how others do it.

I'm contemplating changing to spray bars, so I'm also interesting in how people configure multiples there as well.

Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 01:59 AM
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Lets see. You can look at my sig picture and see I have a spraybar on the top left side running current across the top of the tank, thus giving plenty of O2 to the tank. Mild ripples at the start of it. I have the intakes on both sides in back corners, pretty low. One is all the way down - on the right. If you look at a green spray painted PVC tube in the back right corner that is the other output. It is "L" shaped and ends with a 45 degree pointed slightly up and to the back glass. Wasserpest suggested something like this when I had the same question.

The bottom part of the L is maybe eight inches or a little longer running across the bottom of the tank. My clown loaches like to swim inside it sometimes. When they get bigger I might have to do something to make sure no one ever gets stuck in there. This has worked out pretty well for me and the two XP3s put out a fair amount of current without blowing all the plants to kingdom come. I hope this makes some sense. My sig. photo is about a month old and now the hydrocotyle and L.aromatica are so tall in their respective corners that you can't see anything at all.

Also, the flow is generally from left toward the right on the top and more from the right back to the left on the bottom, with a few spots which have their own pattern. But overall, there is plenty of flow for all the plants. I sometimes slow down the spraybar flow, but generally leave full. bob





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks.
That is the type of info I'm looking for.
The picture helps considerably and the tank looks great.

I understand the spraybar and two inlets.

I'm not sure about the second outlet.

I believe it is a length of pvc with a 45 degree fitting on the end. The fitting is turned slightly up, but mostly faces the rear glass. It isn't capped.
Looking down, it has a hockey stick shape?
If this is correct, the open end must be right next to the glass.
I wonder how there would be room for any fish to get in, and I would expect the current to be too high as the entire output of that filter exits here.

Did you do the L-shape, rather than just extend the outlet down the center of the back wall, for appearances? Putting it down the corner hides it better.

I like the idea of outlets at 2 levels.
I assume the CO2 reactor is on the spraybar. ("O2" was a typo?)
Considering yours is also a 90gal, out of curiosity, what CO2 bubble rate is required and what concentration does it give.
I recognize bubble rates are subject to many variables, but your tank looks like it might be the closest approximation I'll find.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 04:28 AM
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The outlet on the right is "L" shaped. Meaning vertical to horizontal. The horizontal piece is maybe 8". What connects the vertical to horizontal is a standard 90 degree right angle PVC fitting. At the end of the horizontal is a 45 degree fitting pointing kind of upward and angled at the back glass. This whole "L" shaped outflow is resting on the gravel and the 45 degree at its end is maybe two inches off the tank's floor at its top. And yeah, its on the corner for aesthetics and also because I keep that XP3 outside of the tank's stand to keep a door handle from banging into the tank and easier maintenance etc.

Lets see, it is kind of hockey stick in shape, but not really...LOL, only a Canadian would see it as hockey stick shaped. Sorry couldn't resist as I can see why you thought it was hockey stick shaped without a 90 degree joint in there and having a 45 degree on the end. The vertical piece is near 20 inches long I'm guessing. And the horizontal is about 8 inches long and connected as previously stated with a right angle joint.

I would put both inputs as low as possible as that forces more current down low. I just never got around to putting in one more piece in mine and everything seems fine. But both of mine are pretty low, one as low as possible and the other 3 inches higher.

The CO2 reactor is on the right side, although it was originally on the left through the spraybar. But after I put in Hydor heaters, I started getting some small CO2 bubbles ( I assume they were CO2) and so I moved it to the right to force them to dissolve by introducing at a greater depth. No point in helping the CO2 to disperse and be wasted in the top current. So, no I was referring to O2 conversion with the spraybar. All tank's need some current movement at the top to allow more O2 into the tank, especially at night as I imagine you already know.

Regards CO2 bubble rates, I'm not too sure. My bubble counter is out of liquid at present, and the tank has a Milwaukee SMS122 controling the pH by CO2 injection. I keep 1/3 cup of crushed coral in the cannister to replenish KH. I push the CO2 gas in pretty fast (maybe 8-10 bpsecond?? that's a wild guess) knowing the controler will shut it down once it reaches the target pH. I have really soft water here. I keep the KH at around 4.5 to 5 and the pH at 6.6-6.7 generally which gives me around 30-38ppm of CO2 concentration. But I haven't checked in a while. Lots of pearling when the KH is high enough. Hope this helps and good luck with your new baby! bob
PS... Clown loaches can easily swim in some major current. Very strong fish when you overfeed like I do. I think the PVC pipe is one inch and they can easily get in there - being juveniles... Love those guys!!





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.
That helped clarify a couple of things, and confirmed I understood some others.
What I didn't grasp the first time, was the outlet being 1". I was thinking 1/2". That would help reduce the current.

I have some clown loaches as well. They are entertaining.
A few days ago I watched one that thought it needed to dig a hole. It was removing one piece of gravel at a time with it's mouth and throwing it over it's shoulder. There was quite a pile created.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 02:33 PM
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Funny you should say that since I always refer to my clown loaches as puppies.

This thread has left me a little dejected...I only have one 404 on my 90gal. lol...
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-06-2006, 03:42 AM
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Well they do wag their fish tails a bit like a coffee table clearing Labrador retreiver and they kind of have a dog's happy demeanor. Fun fish for sure.





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-06-2006, 12:24 PM
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Here's how I positioned the inlets, and outlets on the 2 2026's on my 125.
Starting from the left corner: inlet with Fluval skimmer, outlet vertical across the back of the tank.
Now starting from the right corner, vertical spraybar poionting toward the front about 1/3 of the way down, and then the inlet with the surface skimmer.

I thought the flow along the back might be a bit much, but I've seen my corries, SAE's and even rosey barbs swimming upstream in it.

Walter

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-06-2006, 01:08 PM
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Here is mine from the LEFT...

My 2026 outlet runs along the back wall...the spray bar is oriented so the flow is hitting the back wall at a slight downward angle.

My 2213 outlet is only a spray jet (no bar) on the right side of the tank...it's oriented so it flows to the back right corner.

I've found this provides plenty of "back-to-front" circulation through the tank. The 2213 angled at the back right corner provides a surface swirl (no turbulence though).

My reasoning...my fish are slow at getting their food so having it blown through the tank is a major PITA and I'm actually trying to keep mitrates relatively minimal now.

Re-boot!
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