The outlet on the right is "L" shaped. Meaning vertical to horizontal. The horizontal piece is maybe 8". What connects the vertical to horizontal is a standard 90 degree right angle PVC fitting. At the end of the horizontal is a 45 degree fitting pointing kind of upward and angled at the back glass. This whole "L" shaped outflow is resting on the gravel and the 45 degree at its end is maybe two inches off the tank's floor at its top. And yeah, its on the corner for aesthetics and also because I keep that XP3 outside of the tank's stand to keep a door handle from banging into the tank and easier maintenance etc.
Lets see, it is kind of hockey stick in shape, but not really...LOL, only a Canadian would see it as hockey stick shaped.
Sorry couldn't resist as I can see why you thought it was hockey stick shaped without a 90 degree joint in there and having a 45 degree on the end. The vertical piece is near 20 inches long I'm guessing. And the horizontal is about 8 inches long and connected as previously stated with a right angle joint.
I would put both inputs as low as possible as that forces more current down low. I just never got around to putting in one more piece in mine and everything seems fine. But both of mine are pretty low, one as low as possible and the other 3 inches higher.
The CO2 reactor is on the right side, although it was originally on the left through the spraybar. But after I put in Hydor heaters, I started getting some small CO2 bubbles ( I assume they were CO2) and so I moved it to the right to force them to dissolve by introducing at a greater depth. No point in helping the CO2 to disperse and be wasted in the top current. So, no I was referring to O2 conversion with the spraybar. All tank's need some current movement at the top to allow more O2 into the tank, especially at night as I imagine you already know.
Regards CO2 bubble rates, I'm not too sure. My bubble counter is out of liquid at present, and the tank has a Milwaukee SMS122 controling the pH by CO2 injection. I keep 1/3 cup of crushed coral in the cannister to replenish KH. I push the CO2 gas in pretty fast (maybe 8-10 bpsecond?? that's a wild guess) knowing the controler will shut it down once it reaches the target pH. I have really soft water here. I keep the KH at around 4.5 to 5 and the pH at 6.6-6.7 generally which gives me around 30-38ppm of CO2 concentration. But I haven't checked in a while. Lots of pearling when the KH is high enough. Hope this helps and good luck with your new baby! bob
PS... Clown loaches can easily swim in some major current. Very strong fish when you overfeed like I do. I think the PVC pipe is one inch and they can easily get in there - being juveniles... Love those guys!!
Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......