Algae problems!! Please educate me! - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2006, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Algae problems!! Please educate me!

Ok, Im battling algae in my 100 gallon tank right now. I have four 40 watt bulbs over the tank. All of my water parameters are fine. I have a decent amount of fish in there. The lights stay on about 10 hrs a day. I clean once a week and I dose back with liquid fertilizer with trace elements. I have had problems with BBA and some green algae that grows very rapidly on my gravel floor. Im getting very confused and frustrated with this because I dont know what I should do to stop it from growing. Ive heard some many different and confusing things and I just want something that works for me! Please help.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 01:09 AM
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i no just the thing

i have the same problem but i no how to fix it.

the algae is created from excessive light and excessive food. so maybe until it stops growing cut the light down to 8 or 9 hrs. also make sure your fish are eating every drop of food. if anything falls to the bottom that WILL create the algae. What r u feeding the fish anyway???

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 01:47 AM
 
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Welcome to Mother Nature

Like My signature imply , I have a certain deference on algae. Some big brain guys think that the Cyano is the main motor in transforming an early poisonous atmosphere in good fresh air (until we came along).

This is only to said that Cyano and other algae are evolution success an will thrive in almost anything.

A simple answer to this problem will be a certain welcome in the planted aquarium community.

• first question to ask is do your water parameter are good

Amazonian soft water Tank
PH— 6.5 / 7
TempΊ— 76Ί / 78Ί
Filtration — 3 ΰ 5x volume / hour
CO2 — 15 ppm to 30 ppm
KH — 30 / 50 ppm)
GH — 40 / 120 ppm
Mg — 5 / 10 —>45 ppm
NO3 — 5 / 10 ppm
P04 — 0.2 / 0.5 ppm
K — 20 / 30 —>50 ppm
Fe — 0.1 ppm

• look at your Redfield ratio at http://www.xs4all.nl/~buddendo/aquar...dfield_eng.htm

• Do you have enough plants to compete with Cyano

• How you want to choke the beast, you need to render your algae Hotel somewhat inhospitable to drive the thing down butt not kill your plants fish and all —> The element people limit are mostly Phosphate (watch your redfield) and Iron. Plants like so much those two that they can make reserve of a 1000 times from the water column leaving our little algae with nothing to munch (in theory)
In reality patience and knowledge will overcome evil.

Last edited by Glouglou; 03-04-2006 at 04:26 PM.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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I took one of the light strips off so now there is just two 40 watt bulbs. Im going to try that at about 9 to 10 hours a day. Im also going to get some phosphate filter media for my canister filter because im sure that the phosphates are high.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 02:38 AM
 
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Going down in lighting!

By going down in lighting you maybe gone to get rid temporary of algae, but your plants will probably suffer to.

10 to 12 Hours is normally what you need.

By the standard you don’t have enough light already 3 time the volume in gallon (100 gal = 300 watt) is a middle target, some go to higher ratio, some go lower with shade plants.

If you think you got to much phosphate, do a good water change and buy a test kit to monitor your tank and the water your adding.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 02:50 AM
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I don't want to rain on the parade, but I didn't see where you have any CO2 in that tank, or, lacking that, any other source of carbon for the plants. You need to have a tank where the light limits the growth of plants, and all other requirements are met. So, you need adequate Nitrate, Phosphate, potassium, carbon dioxide, calcium, magnesium, and traces. Adequate means more than the plants need for the light they have. There is no good data that says the "Redfield ratio" is important to stopping algae. Excessive nutrients alone will not cause algae. But, widely varying CO2 concentration will cause it to start, as will spikes of ammonia, which the plants need time to begin to use, while the algae can use immediately.

So, first get the amount of light you want for the plants you want to grow. Then provide adequate CO2, then provide more than enough of all of the other nutrients. Clean up all debris, dead fish, dead leaves, excess food, etc. Remove all of the algae you can, by pruning and physically taking it from the tank. Then the BBA and the green gunk should go away and not come back.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 03:24 AM
 
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Redfield ratio

The Redfield Ratio is base on Mother Nature.
Do you see river and lake cover with algae, well if the ratio of Phospate/Nitrate is such and such in Amazone, I will keep that in my tank!


Never keep the GrandMaster of things out of the equation!
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 06:20 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glouglou
The Redfield Ratio is base on Mother Nature.
Do you see river and lake cover with algae, well if the ratio of Phospate/Nitrate is such and such in Amazone, I will keep that in my tank!


Never keep the GrandMaster of things out of the equation!
Your 33 gallon tank is not river an lake cover!! You are mixin apples with oranges here...The P an N is not anything like it is in river an lakes with a small closed enviroment!! There are just alot more variables involved...
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 03:24 PM
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I think that would be "Grand Mistress" . Bastalker is correct, basically we're trying to grow weeds in the equivalent of a large mud-puddle. Comparing it to a lake or stream does not compute.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 06:29 PM
 
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Oups!

Yes, I understand that Redfield is not the magical sword, but it should be considerate at it is by the scientific comunauty around the world to be a good starting point to evaluate the trophic status of ocean, lakes and mud-puddle.

The average numbers are 28(N) for 1(P), 28:1 in freshwater.

The actual range of Nitrate/Phosphate accepted by planted tank folks is :

NO3 — 5 / 10 ppm
P04 — 0.2 / 0.5 ppm

Take the low range —> PO4=0.2 and NO3=5
Multiply 0.2 x 28 = 5.6

Take the high range —> PO4=0.5 and NO3=10
Multiply 0.5 x 28 = 14

and boom! It work!

Some of my friends with Saltwater tank picked up a strange idea that lowering the density of their water will reduce parasites, well the thing work but the life of the fish is shorter.

Oceans are a very stable environments, how in their right mind play Doctor Frankeinstein with those poor fishies and what is establish fo millions of years.

I agree that a big fish bowl is different than rivers and lakes but I disagree that will should not take lesson from the Grand Plan.
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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ok I appreciate all of your help but you all are explaining it very difficultly. I am new at planted aquariums so I need basic steps and advice. Thank you!
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 11:10 AM
 
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How many plants have you got?
Even if your water parameters are all in balance,you still need fast growing plants to outcompete the algae.
If your tanks just been set up,get some fast growing stem plants in there.
Happend to me,i set up my co2 high lighting etc and had horrible algae,until the plants took off
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 03:16 PM
 
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Sorry about the Rumbling....



You need to establish the parameter of the style of tank you want:

and start with the most important one, get it right and pass to the next:

Example Amazonian Tank :

Hardware :

• TempΊ— 76Ί / 78Ί
—> get a good heater, the most precise you can afford and a good thermometer (some cheap one have big difference with reality)

• Filtration — 3 ΰ 5x volume / hour
—> Get a good filtration ex: wet/dry canister + 1 hang-on + 1 power-head, keep in mind the nitrification cycle (transformation of ammonia in nitrate by bacteries).
and keep in mind the Prandlt boundary (zone around a water plant that have to be penetrate by nutrient, thinner and easier if a good water movement. Don’t disturb to much the surface because you will loose CO2 (15 to 30ppm), you can use aeration at night when plants release CO2. keep attention at your filter media ex: use of peat for acidifyng water and avoid charcoal that will suck up nutrient.

• good lighthing : 2 to 4 time the volume in watt ex: 33 gal= 66 watt to 120 watt with good spectrum —> mix of daylight and plant spectrum neons, 10 to 12 hours on a timer.

• Injection of CO2 with yeast or pressurized (with pressurized you can use a solenoid valve on timer to shutt off at night

Substrate

• Use a good size sand (non reactive, that don’t leach any substance) that you can spike with fertilizer stick or Laterite or a mix to have some nutrient in the sand.

Water

• Keep the water inside the good parameter (Good test kits)

PH— 6.5 / 7
KH — 30 / 50 ppm)
GH — 40 / 120 ppm
CO2 — 15 ppm to 30 ppm
Mg — 5 / 10 —>45 ppm
NO3 — 5 / 10 ppm
P04 — 0.2 / 0.5 ppm
K — 20 / 30 —>50 ppm
Fe — 0.1 ppm

• Change your water something like 10 to 20% every week or two—> fabricate a water close to your water parameter. Replace the water that evaporate with RO (reverse osmosis) or some kind of demineralized or distill water.

• Keep the sort of plant that comply with your parameter in a good quantity. Mix of slow and fast growing plant.

• Dont forget a good ratio of fishies.

I probably forget something...

Have patience!
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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ok well i dont have CO2 and I really dont want to get it either. Is that going to become a problem? I do have alot of fast growing plants and I just put more in there yesterday so it is crammed full right now. Here is a list of fish I have in there right now:
3 med. angels
6 rainbows
4 rams
1 pleco
4 small otos
11 neon tetras(which ive heard dont even count..lol)
1 black skirt tetra

is this an ok amount?
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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i was also wanting to add some air bubbles under my driftwood in the tank....is this a bad idea? Wont it help with circulation?
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