Too many things going wrong! Help! - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Too many things going wrong! Help!

I recently set up a planted tank. I cannot get algae to stop growing (green hair, and brown/red) I have one Piranha, so algae eaters are out of the question. I am running, 2 54w 6700k bulbs and 1, 26w, 10 000K bulb on a 75 gallon. These bulbs are 4 years old. I am in the process of getting new ones. My jungle vals are almost see through and have lost all there green. My red lotus keeps dyeing off. All my Amazon swords are doing just fine.
I have a co2 set up, however I have a few questions and concerns. I am not releasing enough co2 into the water. Someone was telling me that co2 PH levels is not actually the real Ph level. Does this mean I can turn my ph monitor to whatever setting I want to get the right amount of co2 without harming my fish? I have noticed that the system comes on, and is off already within 10 min. Would increasing the bubbles per second put more co2 into the water? or would it just allow the ph monitor to reach its low faster, therefore shutting off quicker, and releasing the same amount of co2?
What kind of nutirents should I be dosing with and how much and how often? Can anyone please help me figure this out. I really want this to work. I have posted about this before, on other sites as well, and havenít received much advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 05:57 PM
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It doesn't look like any plant is doing ok.
Did you add any ferts to the substrate? The gravel looks very thin. I guess that might not be a bad thing, my root plants seem to do better with deeper sand, though.
I can't help with the CO2, my plants don't need it so I don't use it. I had no issues growing medium light plants in my 75g with just 108 watts of shop lights.

But since they are new plants, they could just be adjusting and the algae is just a kick in the pants to them. I don't have big algae issues, unless two things go wrong. Too much light or too much nutrition in the water.

Where's the fish..?

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 07:36 PM
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What is your fertilizer regimine?
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 07:40 PM
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I'm new to this, so any of the pros out there can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have two issues here. 1) it sounds like you don't have enough light to be using CO2 and 2) you need some fertilizer if you want to see growth, especially if you want to use CO2.

You don't even have two wats per gallon over your tank. If it were me, I would stop using CO2, plant low-medium light plants and at the very least put some root tabs under the swords. You could also try using some Flourish.

If you have your heart set on CO2, I think you need to upgrade your lights so you have at least 2 wpg and really research how to properly dose micro and macro ferts. I would check out the sticky on the fertilizer forum.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 08:06 PM
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Too many things going wrong! Help!

I think, if I am reading you right. You have two 54w ho t5s. you have to check what the par is but you have high or med high light with just that. Now you need to get a fert reg going to feed your plants.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VJVentrella View Post
I am running, 2 54w 6700k bulbs and 1, 26w, 10 000K bulb on a 75 gallon. These bulbs are 4 years old. I am in the process of getting new ones.

We need a little more information to be able to help you.

What kind of bulbs are these? T5HO? T5NO? T8? T12?

Do you fertilize?

What are your current water parameters?

Quote:
Originally Posted by VJVentrella View Post
I have a co2 set up, however I have a few questions and concerns. I am not releasing enough co2 into the water. Someone was telling me that co2 PH levels is not actually the real Ph level. Does this mean I can turn my ph monitor to whatever setting I want to get the right amount of co2 without harming my fish?

How are you determining that you are not releasing enough CO2 into the water?

Using a pH controller to measure the pH is not a good measure of how much CO2 you have in your water.

A drop checker with a 4 dkH reference solution is a good method to approximate how much CO2 you have. From there, you can set your pH controller to the pH value that corresponds to the desired CO2 concentration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VJVentrella View Post
I have noticed that the system comes on, and is off already within 10 min. Would increasing the bubbles per second put more co2 into the water? or would it just allow the ph monitor to reach its low faster, therefore shutting off quicker, and releasing the same amount of co2?

Increasing the flow rate would allow more CO2 into the water, and would allow the pH to reach the low setpoint faster.

The rate of flow would change, but the actual volume dispensed would remain the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VJVentrella View Post
What kind of nutirents should I be dosing with and how much and how often?
The basic macronutrients that we generally dose are nitrates and phosphates. A trace mix is often used to dose the micronutrients.

There are many ways to achieve dosing, from commercially available products to purchasing your own chemicals to achieve the same result (but for much less).

Take a look at my Primer to Planted Tanks (linked in my signature below) for more information.

Anthony


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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 08:33 PM
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I think cheeman has got it. The light will be bright once the bulbs are replaced and the plants are starving. Look at the stickied thread in the Fertilizer forum for how tos. Your fish might appreciate floating plants, that will both knock the light back a bit and add to the natural feel of the tank.

If you cannot use algae eaters then you get to clean the tank. Pick off leaves past their prime, use an airline as a siphon if that will work on the gunk in the tank. I have read some use a clean toothbrush to wind up thready algae and scrub rocks. Lightly siphon the surface of the gravel when you do a water change, keep the filter running at optimum levels, wipe down the tank panes, wood and rocks. The cleaner a high tech tank is the better it works - for me anyway.

I am no expert at using pH monitors but I do want the water to be at least one full point lower when the lights are on than it is at dawn. My tank water is 7.6 in the morning so I want it to be down to at least 6.6 when lights are on. Check to be sure this is what your system is actually doing. If one point seems to be putting the pH at a scary level then would using some KH and/or GH booster at water change time make a difference?


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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 08:51 PM
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I just went through this myself and caught it earlier enough to eradicate it took about a week though and various natural, chemical, and manual steps.

There's great sticky in the algae section using hydrogen peroxide.

I would also try to keep everything else in check, how long your photo period, co2, and ferts etc

As long as your plants are happy the algae should stay under control. Having amanos would be huge plus if you can relocate your piranha for a temporary period


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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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I have 3 t5HO bulbs. 2 6700k 54 W and one 10000K 28W bulb. It's a 4 bulb fixture and I have spare lights. I have just been told to remove some so the algae is less. I have flourish tabs every 6 inches throughout the tank. And dose with flourish every 3 days. As far as co2 goes. If
I use all 4 bulbs, then should I lower my
Ph monitor so the co2 comes on for a longer period of time?
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and I have a drop checker and it is reading not enough co2. I just didn't know that if I
Lowered the ph on the monitor will it actually release more co2 or will is just lower the range and not really make a difference.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 10:46 PM
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Check Darkblade's Primer for CO2 thread it should help clear things up for you. Better than my writing for sure!

All I can say is if I used a pH monitor I would probably be setting it to turn off at about 6.6 pH during the period of time the lights are on - for my tank where the pH is naturally 7.6. If I set it to 6.2 my fish might die. If I set it to 7.0 my drop checker would stay blue. If I was doing it properly it is likely my final pH would be something like 6.47. The lower the pH is for a given KH the more CO2 is in the water is the general rule. I would start at 7.2, fish are fine, move it to 7.1 in a couple days and so on until I notice a change in the behavior of the fish.

What is the KH, night time pH and lighting period pH of your tank?

Drop checkers give a rough estimate of how much CO2 was in the water a couple hours ago.


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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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I will get all the parameters tonight and should have them posted for
The morning. Hopefully I could get this straitened out. As for the nutrients, I checked out that sticky and it appears that just flourish isn't enough. Where can I get all of those nutrients from. I don't remember seeing them at my lfs
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2013, 12:20 AM
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Too many things going wrong! Help!

4 t5 ho is a lot if light. When ever u try. I grow algae really good.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2013, 01:30 AM
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There are a couple of people here that sell packs. I buy from Bob's Tropical Plants as he is nearby, Greenleaf is a sponsor that sells it. Check the sale forum - I have picked up leftovers there lots of times and nilocg sells the different salts involved there. And there is http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/

A local nursery might have some of the things, I can buy potassium sulfate labeled as stump remover but will pay twice as much as buying it online and have used a particular enema, Fleet's, for phosphate as well.


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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2013, 03:32 AM
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A local nursery might have some of the things, I can buy potassium sulfate labeled as stump remover but will pay twice as much as buying it online and have used a particular enema, Fleet's, for phosphate as well.
Perhaps you meant potassium nitrate labeled as stump remover?

Potassium sulfate is not marketed as stump remover.

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