To wetdry or not to wetdry - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2005, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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To wetdry or not to wetdry

Planning my next planted tank either going to be a 90, 120, or 125. I have a 20 gal just full of plants. Was wondering if i should go with a wet dry filter. I know it would effect the co2 lose put it also allows more oxygen which means more fish. Also big tanks ar harder to filter with canister filters and dont want to buy two filters.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-07-2005, 12:32 AM
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Go with a sump.

Skip the wet/dry.

If you buy the right canister filter you will have no problems.

It's not that larger tanks need to canister filters. What they need is water movement. And in any planted tank water movement is greatly restricted by the plants.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 08:34 PM
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Do the plants require the water movement or the fish?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 08:42 PM
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Both fish and plants need oxygen.

Canister filters do nothing for oxygen.

Heres my take...
If CO2 is injected properly pay no mind to surface agitation or CO2 loss. Are we trying to keep CO2 inside the tank? No. We are trying to provide CO2 when the lights are on, when the plants need the CO2. CO2 is continuously injected into the tank for the duration of the light cycle to provide this for the plants.

IMO the whole idea of low surface agitation and the entire concept of keeping CO2 inside is a bad idea and gives the planted tank a bad wrap in regards to livestock.

Want to see more...check out my website
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 05:58 AM
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If you do a non wet dry sump with a refugium, you can plant the refugium section heavily, then have a day night timer like the coralife units:
Coralife Power Center—Day/Night Timer or Wavemaker Timer - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store
Then have the bottom light set up on the alternating outlet.

When the main tank is on, plants in the main tank use Co2, produce oxygen, the bottom refugium uses oxygen and produces Co2. it also tends to act as a PH buffer too.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantfreak View Post
Planning my next planted tank either going to be a 90, 120, or 125. I have a 20 gal just full of plants. Was wondering if i should go with a wet dry filter. I know it would effect the co2 lose put it also allows more oxygen which means more fish. Also big tanks ar harder to filter with canister filters and dont want to buy two filters.
No need for a wet/dry, use a sump. Get the biggest tank and biggest sump you afford/fit, more water is always better. For a sump, all you need is a box that will hold water, best to have a cover. A rubbermaid works well. You can look at my sump in the link below (last one) for ideas, I already wasted a lot of money and time finding out what works......DC
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Acep38 View Post
If you do a non wet dry sump with a refugium, you can plant the refugium section heavily, then have a day night timer like the coralife units:
Coralife Power Center—Day/Night Timer or Wavemaker Timer - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store
Then have the bottom light set up on the alternating outlet.

When the main tank is on, plants in the main tank use Co2, produce oxygen, the bottom refugium uses oxygen and produces Co2. it also tends to act as a PH buffer too.

Search this forum on those coralifes, might be suprised with what you find. Here are a couple I found real quick Reef Central Online Community - Photos of my house fire...aquarium put it out. https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/eq...coralife+timer .....DC
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 07:30 AM
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Go with the sump leave the wet/dry out. That's what I should have done and will change it to a sump only. It degasses the co2 quickly. My bubbles are going so fast that I can't even count them. Maybe 20-30 bps to reach the desired ph.
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