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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Will this work???

I have a 29 gallon tank that was a salt reef.... I have cleaned it out and want to try live plants.

I have JBJ pc lighting 1 65watt 6500K bulb the other is an actinic
( is there any danger in the actinic bulb to live plants?)

I have a fluval 204 canister filter with carbon for media...
I also am running a wet/dry filter with just a sponge and carbon
( has anyone run a wet/dry on there planted tank.... any trouble to this filtration method with live plants??)

I just set up the tank with these things running and need to get it cycling

for substrate I have flourite and plain jane aquarium gravel .
For Co2 I am going to build a DIY deally that I read about on this site ...

So mainly I want to know about the pc actinic and 6500K
( I really dont want to buy another expensive bulb (( crossing fingers))
AND the wet/dry .... good or bad?

Heffe
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 09:43 AM
Hop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heffe1st
I have a 29 gallon tank that was a salt reef.... I have cleaned it out and want to try live plants.

I have JBJ pc lighting 1 65watt 6500K bulb the other is an actinic
( is there any danger in the actinic bulb to live plants?)

I have a fluval 204 canister filter with carbon for media...
I also am running a wet/dry filter with just a sponge and carbon
( has anyone run a wet/dry on there planted tank.... any trouble to this filtration method with live plants??)

I just set up the tank with these things running and need to get it cycling

for substrate I have flourite and plain jane aquarium gravel .
For Co2 I am going to build a DIY deally that I read about on this site ...

So mainly I want to know about the pc actinic and 6500K
( I really dont want to buy another expensive bulb (( crossing fingers))
AND the wet/dry .... good or bad?

Heffe
Breaking this down 1 by 1 here:
1. The actinic will not do a whole lot for your plants, but 65 watts on the single bulb will be fine for now. in fact running both lights for 12 hours would most likely be overkill, some may argue this, but at this stage of the game, we have no idea what plants you want to grow and their needs.
2. The fluval will work, but you will want to get rid of the carbon and just run sponges.
3. The problem with wet dry filters is that they allow too much Co2 to escape from the water column. If your overflow is a hang on, you can just skip the wet/dry all together. Otherwise if you have an internal, maybe run your water level lower or plug it and work around it.
4. You do not need to cycle a planted tank, provided that you have enough plants. Things are a lot differant that a SW or reef set up.

So basically I'm confident helping w/ equipment, others here can really get you dialed in on parameters and such. spend some time reading here and rexgrigg's site is a good place to start as well.

Also welcome to the planted tank

Currently tankless for the first time in 24 years... Getting the itch again
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 12:20 PM
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I agree with HOP for the most part. The 6500k bulb is perfect, ditch the actinic. You have just over 2 watts per gallon. If you ever go for High light, and compressed CO2, you can have over 4 by adding the other bulb.

Concerning the Wet-dry: From what I've read If you cover the sump, and don't pump air into the bio-chamber a wet-dry is OK. By covering the sump, any out gassed CO2 is trapped, reaches a saturation point, and prevents more CO2 from being out gassed. More CO2 is lost due to surface agitation.
You can put a large pore foam block in the top of the overflows (if they are drilled) to cut down on the surface agitation

Walter

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--May the floor under your tank always be dry, and your glass clear!!!
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazcrash69
Concerning the Wet-dry: From what I've read If you cover the sump, and don't pump air into the bio-chamber a wet-dry is OK. By covering the sump, any out gassed CO2 is trapped, reaches a saturation point, and prevents more CO2 from being out gassed. More CO2 is lost due to surface agitation.
You can put a large pore foam block in the top of the overflows (if they are drilled) to cut down on the surface agitation
Interesting, but I'm not certain it can be done with the DIY Co2 it appears that he is going to use. Regardless whether he is using a HOB overflow or an internal overflow, there is an issue with noise. To help with this flushing noise such contraptions like the durso or stockman pipes have been utilized. Whether this method or the sponge (hope and pray it's quiet) method is used, there is still a need to balance the air/water mix as it goes down the tube to the wet/dry he mentioned. By doing this there is always air being added to the wet/dry, making a good seal impossible. Without the air/water mix going through the overflow/tube a siphon would start and it would be very difficult to balance the pump vs. drain and a flood would occur. With this constant addition of air and expanding air capacity, Co2 would outgas the wet/dry at a rate that a DIY Co2 system would be incapable of keeping up with.

I have often though about adding a sump, not a wet/dry, to my planted tank, along with a refugeum of sorts. The two tanks would be on opposite lighting schedules to assist in the balance and equalization of Ph between night and day, without constant Ph control. However, I have yet to feel that the benefits would out weight the initial cost of set up and the ongoing maintenance. Dunno though, it could always wind up being the next new wave in the planted tank world

Currently tankless for the first time in 24 years... Getting the itch again
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 11:58 PM
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HOP, I missed the DIY part of the CO2, you are right it would be very hard to keep a steady balance with that.

As far as the refugeum, I've read about a lot of reef keepers that are doing just that with the alternate light cycle. If you do this, I would love to know what happens.

Walter

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