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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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High pH

My tap water is 7.8 - 8.0 and I wonder if I should put peat in my filters.

When I had bettas before I always used neutral regulator. My LPS (unfortunately they closed) suggested it bc he knew my town's water is so acidic (it actually burned my neighbors' neon tetras before she realized what was going on).

My crown tail betta girls seem fine they're in critter keepers now waiting for the cycling to stabilize.

I just ordered active filters from Angels Plus bc I want to make sure I have good bio filtration.

I eventually would like some Cherry Shrimp but I think my acidity might kill them.

Will this acidity hurt the snails that are arriving this week? MTS and ivory apple.

Thanks in advance for your input and help!
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 06:53 AM
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A ph over 7 is actually basic, not acidic. You could try adding almond leaves, driftwood, or buffering substrate to lower your pH.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:56 AM
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You can try using ADA Amazonia which helps lower the PH to mimic South American water. I've lived in a few different areas and using this Amazonia always made my water 6.4-6.8 no matter how basic/acid my tap water was. There's other options too like Akadama (but I haven't used it)
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:13 AM
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hey specgrrl.
im from VA too! my water runs the same ph as yours actually. i keep cherry shrimp and neon tetras in a ph that basic with no trouble. non-wild aquatic life tends to be more flexible with the conditions in which they can live since their previous generations have lived in a multitude of different tank paramaters. this is especially the case with common cherry shrimp. however make sure you adjust them slowly. you can do this by adding little quantites of your water to the water your shrimp are currently in stages to slowly acclimate them to your water. As for your snails...i assume they will be just fine as well but i dont keep any snails so i wouldnt be the person to ask. Finally! i made a trip all the way to virginia beach to go to animal jungle. it put shame all the pet stores i have here in richmond. i actually bought my fluval ebi there. i suggest you go there if you've never been.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 12:45 PM
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There is also some hope in waiting for a time. Over time as water sets, it may change as gases come out of the water. Also tanks tend to drift to lower PH as they mature.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stinkmonky View Post
hey specgrrl.
im from VA too! my water runs the same ph as yours actually. i keep cherry shrimp and neon tetras in a ph that basic with no trouble. non-wild aquatic life tends to be more flexible with the conditions in which they can live since their previous generations have lived in a multitude of different tank paramaters. this is especially the case with common cherry shrimp. however make sure you adjust them slowly. you can do this by adding little quantites of your water to the water your shrimp are currently in stages to slowly acclimate them to your water. As for your snails...i assume they will be just fine as well but i dont keep any snails so i wouldnt be the person to ask. Finally! i made a trip all the way to virginia beach to go to animal jungle. it put shame all the pet stores i have here in richmond. i actually bought my fluval ebi there. i suggest you go there if you've never been.

Hi!

Yes Animal Jungle is famous as is Pet Paradise which is about 8 miles away from AJ.

I had a great talk with a primitive fish fancier in the plant aisle there.

I didn't buy any plants though bc I am receiving some great stuff from folks on this forum who have been very generous to me since I blew my budget on my Fluval Spec V!
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 01:50 PM
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High pH

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecGrrl View Post
My tap water is 7.8 - 8.0 and I wonder if I should put peat in my filters.


When I had bettas before I always used neutral regulator. My LPS (unfortunately they closed) suggested it bc he knew my town's water is so acidic (it actually burned my neighbors' neon tetras before she realized what was going on).

My crown tail betta girls seem fine they're in critter keepers now waiting for the cycling to stabilize.

I just ordered active filters from Angels Plus bc I want to make sure I have good bio filtration.

I eventually would like some Cherry Shrimp but I think my acidity might kill them.

Will this acidity hurt the snails that are arriving this week? MTS and ivory apple.

Thanks in advance for your input and help!
Hello Spec...


As long as the pH level is stable, no sudden changes, then your fish will adapt. Aside from the rare species, aquarium fish will tolerate a pH as as acidic as 6 and as basic as 8.5.


Fish prefer a higher pH and plants a lower pH. Adding driftwood will lower the pH a bit, but avoid trying to change it with chemicals. It's difficult for the average water keeper to maintain a specific water chemistry artificially.

I'd suggest changing half the water in the tank regularly with pure, treated tap water and your fish will be fine. Shrimp may be another matter. I kept them for a while and they seemed fine with the same water chemistry as my fish, but every tank works a little differently.

B

"Fear not my child, just change the tank water."
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent Tran View Post
A ph over 7 is actually basic, not acidic. You could try adding almond leaves, driftwood, or buffering substrate to lower your pH.

Oh geez I am so obvious newbie is obvious!

I blame Olympic-induced weird sleep patterns.

I have some drift wood soaking. And maybe will collect some IAL or oak too.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 02:19 PM
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pH is not a stand alone value.
It is controlled by what else is in the water.
The answer is this: If you want to control the pH, you have to control the minerals and salts that affect it.
Fish want a particular mineral level, not a particular pH. This can be tested with the GH test, and the TDS meter. Low mineral levels are low GH and low TDS. Make the GH right, get the KH similar, and let the pH do what it want. The TDS will probably also be in the right range when the GH and KH are right, because of the way I suggest you correct things.

Test GH, KH, TDS of the tap water, test the pH right out of the tap, and then allow a glass of water to sit out and test the pH at 24 hours and at 48 hours. Post these results here. Include the units.

High pH can be because of high carbonates in the water (very common) or because of something the water company adds to the water (also very common). Get a water quality report from the water company. GH and KH are likely reported as something else, but look for anything that is reported as 'ppm CaCO3', Ca, Mg, Carbonates, Alkalinity, Permanent Hardness, Temporary hardness or a few others. Make sure to post the units, too, these can be ppm, mg/l, dKH, dGH or a few others.

Run this test:
Go buy some RO water from a store (gallon jug is fine).
Blend RO + tap in several jars.
25% RO + 75% tap
50/50
75% RO + 25% tap
Test GH, KH, pH, TDS
If none of these are what you are looking for make your own blend and test.
Then, starting with the recipe that is closest add a handful of peat moss to the jar. (a tablespoon or so to a cup of water). Stir and test at 24 hours and 48 hours. GH, KH, pH, TDS.
__________________________________________________ ____________

The test results you are looking for:
Neons and many other soft water fish:
GH between 3-5 German degrees of hardness.
KH within a degree or so of the GH.
pH on the acidic side of neutral, pretty much anywhere in the 6s is fine, about 6.5-6.8 would be great, but pH is the least important of these, so do not worry if it is not quite there.
__________________________________________________ ___________

If this test works:
1) Fill the tank with the recipe, a blend of RO and tap that has been stirred or passed through peat moss. (I use a fountain pump and peat moss in a nylon stocking)
2) Prepare the water like this for every water change.
3) Top off with pure RO.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 02:22 PM
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No, OP, please do not do this unless you know the water you're swapping is 100% exactly the same parameters as the water in your tank.

The only time you should be changing 50% of your water is if you're dosing EI or something and it's a requirement to do the weekly reset. Otherwise, you're risking stable parameters for shrimp.

Stability is key.

As many have suggested, Neo shrimp can adapt quite well but a pH of 8 is rather high for them. You can absolutely bring things down into the more accepted range with ease. Either by allowing your tap water to age (keep it in a bucket with a pump or airstone for a week or so to help) or by using RO/distilled water along with your tap water.

Other things to consider when it comes to shrimp are hardness (GH & KH) and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). May be a good idea to test those things yourself or find a local who knows the specifics of your tap.

UPDATE: Diana ninjad me with some fancy details that you should save to your computer or print out. They'll come in handy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBradbury View Post
I'd suggest changing half the water in the tank regularly with pure, treated tap water and your fish will be fine. Shrimp may be another matter. I kept them for a while and they seemed fine with the same water chemistry as my fish, but every tank works a little differently.

B


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Um ok guys confused.

Am just gonna work on my 5 gallon rinsing it out and doing a miracle gro/black diamond bottom for it.

Thanks of rall the info I will see if I want to get into testing hardness or not.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 03:49 PM
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What, specifically, is confusing?

The only way to learn and get answers is to let us know where advice is needed.

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Originally Posted by SpecGrrl View Post
Um ok guys confused.

Am just gonna work on my 5 gallon rinsing it out and doing a miracle gro/black diamond bottom for it.

Thanks of rall the info I will see if I want to get into testing hardness or not.


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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SpecGrrl View Post
Um ok guys confused.

Am just gonna work on my 5 gallon rinsing it out and doing a miracle gro/black diamond bottom for it.

Thanks of rall the info I will see if I want to get into testing hardness or not.
It's is complicated that's the way it is.

Are you growing plants or not ?

If you get your water from a municipality call your water department or check online for the chemical analysis.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecGrrl View Post
Um ok guys confused.

Am just gonna work on my 5 gallon rinsing it out and doing a miracle gro/black diamond bottom for it.

Thanks of rall the info I will see if I want to get into testing hardness or not.
If you're not used to it, testing talk can sound pretty intimidating but the good news is that most of it is pretty simple when you break it down step by step.
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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What, specifically, is confusing?

The only way to learn and get answers is to let us know where advice is needed.
I appreciate the answers and sorting them out when the suggestions are seemingly opposite of each other is going to take some time.

For example 50-75% water changes.

Someone says do them weekly to address pH and then someone else says, no don unless these specific set of criteria are met.

Useful and a lot to organize.

Focussing on simple steps like re-rinsing the tanks, getting a more suitable stand and placing the miracle geo are comforting at this point.
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