Warm water and algae - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Warm water and algae

Will the algae slow down again when the weather cools off? My tank is pretty much staying in the 80s. Is that why the algae is growing so much?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 01:40 AM
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no and yes
it won't neccessarirly slow down when the weather cools down. excess algae indicates a problem

but yes to the fact that heat does increase its metabolism much like other plants

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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Is this Black Brush Algae or Hair/Thread Algae or what? What do you suggest the imbalance may be? I am feeding liquid fertilizers, Seachem products individually according to the label directions.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:06 AM
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If that's how much you have, then the weather cooling down will not solve your problem. It'll be more about finding the right balance in your tank. How is your light and also your circulation? Too much light could be a problem, or not much water flow.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:11 AM
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Definitely BBA. What are your CO2 levels, and what are you dosing exactly? Water change schedule?

Standard 10 Gallon (20 x12x12).
Low tech, Sand substrate.
Eheim 2211, and Aqueon Quietflow 10.
Finnex Stingray LED, 20" above substrate
2 Anubias Nana Petite, Christmas moss.
4 Halequin Rasborahs, 5 RCS.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:24 AM
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ohh yes i am familiar with that -I have had it all over my driftwood a while back.

Low, or low-fluctuating co2 levels, coupled with excess light is the problem.

By excess, i mean compared to the other things that contribute to the balance of the tank, ferts, co2.

As stated above, look at flow, and up your co2, if it is low tech, perhaps try dosing excel, and minimizing (not eradicating) surface agitation.

Also, photsynthesis does slow slightly at cooler temperatures.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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Aquarium-
46 gallon bow front
Net 35 gallons water
Natural gravel, rocks and Ironwood

Filtration-
One 250 GPH Marineland HOT Magnum canister filter with filter sleeve and media canister with EHEIM Substrat pro bio filter media
One 250 GPH Marineland HOT Magnum Pro canister filter with Bio Wheel, filter sleeve and media canister with EHEIM Substrat pro bio filter media Custom made ABS skimmer/bottom suction tube

Lighting-
Fixture +/- 20 from substrate
Glass hinged top on tank
Plastic lens on fixture
Fixture on factory stands
Chrome reflector
Coralife Lunar Aqualights Compact Fluorescent Strip Lights
Two 4-watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED lamps
Two SunPaq Dual Daylight 6,700*K/10,000*K 96W lamps
Schedule-
8am 8pm single light
12pm 4pm both lights
8pm 8am LEDs only

Fertilizer products-
Seachem
Iron
Phosphorus
Nitrogen
Trace
Potassium

CO2/pH control-
CO2 set point 6.25 (1* below degassed sample)
AquaticLife P/N 9000005 pH Controller
Milwaukee MA957 CO2 Regulator w/solenoid
10# CO2 cylinder

Water parameters (last tested June 10)
Temp 82* F
Phosphate 1.0 mg/l
Calcium 60 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
Ammonia 0.1 ppm
pH 7.25
K hardness 100 ppm
G hardness 140 ppm
Nitrite 0.1 ppm
Free Iron 0.0 mg/l
Chelated Iron 0.1 mg/l

Last water change June 1, I usually do a a 15 gallon change twice a month.

I am thinking I need to increase the KH and in turn the pH will increase with Alkaline Buffer. My KH should be in the 120 - 130 range with the GH that I have. Then I can raise the CO2 control set point accordingly.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 10:41 AM
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Thats a very nice line up. The only things that might be flags, are that you are using Flourish Trace, and not Flourish Comprehensive. You can find the ingredients of both of those online, and the Trace has practically nothing in it. Your plants may be starving for micro's. Also, with an algae problem especially, you should be doing larger more frequent water changes. The more the better. I would be doing 50 percent a week. You could also dose Flourish excel. I would also be interested to see your plant list and your fish list.

Standard 10 Gallon (20 x12x12).
Low tech, Sand substrate.
Eheim 2211, and Aqueon Quietflow 10.
Finnex Stingray LED, 20" above substrate
2 Anubias Nana Petite, Christmas moss.
4 Halequin Rasborahs, 5 RCS.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 11:08 AM
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Having a nitrite level of anything but zero indicates ammonia most likely as well. Bba does also like ammonia and produces prolifically with it. Do large water changes. Turn off the leds at night. And just use the 96 watt fixture. Limit light to 9-10 hours
12 is a lot of light without a dimming function. Just think of it this way, the sun is not full brightness for 12 heirs of the day either

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a link to my tank profile
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/yo...o=view&id=3297

The picture with the leggy looking Chain Swords was taken on February 13 and the main picture was taken on April 15

It really has taken a sad turn and I am not sure what is going on

Originally, I was following this dose chart from Seachem. Effectively half dosing since I only attend to the tank every other day.
http://www.seachem.com/support/PlantDoseChart.pdf

I had stopped dosing Excel because I did not think it was necessary with the CO2 injection system and I thought the Flourish product was also not necessary if dosing the NPK constituents separately with the Trace product. I do not dose Iron and Phosphorus on the same day.

These are the changes made since planting the tank in February.

2/11/2012 Planted aquarium with plants from AZ Aquatic Gardens
3/18/2012 Reduced Excel to one 15mL dosing/14-day period, increased Nitrogen from 36mL to 60ml/14-day period and increase Trace from 18mL to 36mL/14-day period
3/29/2012 Increased Potassium dosing to 6mL daily from day 3, 5 and 7
4/18/2012 Reduce Iron feed from 8ml to 3.5 mL
5/17/2012 Reduce daylight schedule from 10a-4p to noon-4p trying to reduce algae growth
6/8/2012 Stop dosing 15mL Excel on day 1 to not dosing at all
6/10/2012 Reduce Phosphorus dose to 1mL on days 1 and 4 instead of 2mL

This is my current dosing regime Day 1-13
1 Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Phosphorus 1mL
Flourish Trace 9mL

3 Flourish Iron 3.5mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Nitrogen 15mL

5 Flourish Iron 3.5mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Trace 9mL

7 Flourish Nitrogen 15mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Phosphorus 1mL

9 Flourish Iron 3.5mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Trace 9mL

11 Flourish Iron 3.5mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Nitrogen 15mL

13 Flourish Iron 3.5mL
Flourish Potassium 6mL
Flourish Nitrogen 15mL
Flourish Trace 9mL

Maybe I need to go back to square one and begin again. Perhaps the plants have used up all of the micro nutrients available? They look healthy and I have to prune them every two weeks. So I really do not think the plants are deficient in nutrients, I do not know? I should up the water changes too but once a week is too often for me to manage time wise.

The tank has mostly Tetra fishes-

Black Skirt Tetra
Neon Tetra
Lemon Tetra
Red-Eye Tetra
Blue Tetra

Silver Hatchetfish

Emerald Green Cory

Siamese Algae Eaters
Oto Cats

There are also a couple of Dwarf Gouramis, Rainbowfish and Scissortails

The tank is mostly planted with Sword plants

Amazon Sword
Ruffle Sword
Melon Sword
Red Diamond Sword
Pygmy Chain Sword

Cabomba Carolina

Brazilian Pennywort

Bacopa Australis

My current lighting schedule goes from night (2 4W blue LEDs) to morning (one 96W), afternoon (two 96Ws), evening (one 96W) and back to night (two 4W blue LEDs). Do you think that using two 96W lights in the afternoon period and the two 4W blue LEDs in the night period is too much?
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 09:25 PM
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Looks like you are doing things well. I have been going back and forth between your 2 fish lists, trying to decide how many fish you have. It looks like you could have 50 fish in there. I think with a fertilized co2 injected aquarium you should be doing 50% water changes anyway. With your bioload, it only makes that more mandatory. I would take anything out of the tank you can, while doing a 50% water change and treat the BBA on it. Do 2 50% water changes a week for 2 or 3 weeks, then stick to 50% a week. Dose your Flourish excel as directed. If your plants are growing well, then you probably don't need to change your fert schedule, your nitrate and phosphate levels look fine, so the rest probably are also. Although it would be much cheaper to dose dry ferts.

Standard 10 Gallon (20 x12x12).
Low tech, Sand substrate.
Eheim 2211, and Aqueon Quietflow 10.
Finnex Stingray LED, 20" above substrate
2 Anubias Nana Petite, Christmas moss.
4 Halequin Rasborahs, 5 RCS.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I got the GH and KH in better balance 160/150ppm respectively. Now I can degas a sample to set the pH controller for CO2 control.

I will step up the water changes as well. Maybe I can do more like 75% every two weeks? I just don't have the time for weekly changes.

Here is an accurate fish list
4) Black Skirt Tetra
6) Neon Tetra
3) Lemon Tetra
3) Red-Eye Tetra
4) Blue Tetra

3) Green Cory
1) Julii Cory
3) Oto Cats
3) Siamese Algae Eaters

There is also a three Dwarf Gouramis, two Rainbowfish and three Scissor Tail Rasaboras

I am going to go ahead and work with a new fertilization dosing regime since I worked so hard on it.

Here is what I came up with:
1 Flourish 3 mL
Flourish Nitrogen 3 mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL

3 Flourish Excel 18mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL
Flourish Trace 18mL

5 Flourish Excel 12mL
Flourish 3mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL

7 Flourish Nitrogen 3mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish 3mL

9 Flourish Excel 18mL
Flourish Trace 18mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL

11 Flourish 3mL
Flourish Excel 12mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL
Flourish Nitrogen 3mL

13 Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish 3mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL
Flourish Excel 12mL

Hopefully I can monitor plant growth and adjust dosing from here.

Not trying to be difficult, but... I have a question regarding the bio-load concern and water changes. If there are two filters, one set up for wet/dry aerobic/anaerobic bacteria, one set up for additional anaerobic bacteria and the plants basically feed on the Nitrate converted from Nitrite by the bacteria as verified through water testing, why the need for so many water changes? What constituents are being diluted by cycling new water into the tank?
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccar2000 View Post
Well, I got the GH and KH in better balance 160/150ppm respectively. Now I can degas a sample to set the pH controller for CO2 control.

I will step up the water changes as well. Maybe I can do more like 75% every two weeks? I just don't have the time for weekly changes.

Here is an accurate fish list
4) Black Skirt Tetra
6) Neon Tetra
3) Lemon Tetra
3) Red-Eye Tetra
4) Blue Tetra

3) Green Cory
1) Julii Cory
3) Oto Cats
3) Siamese Algae Eaters

There is also a three Dwarf Gouramis, two Rainbowfish and three Scissor Tail Rasaboras

I am going to go ahead and work with a new fertilization dosing regime since I worked so hard on it.

Here is what I came up with:
1 Flourish 3 mL
Flourish Nitrogen 3 mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL

3 Flourish Excel 18mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL
Flourish Trace 18mL

5 Flourish Excel 12mL
Flourish 3mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL

7 Flourish Nitrogen 3mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish 3mL

9 Flourish Excel 18mL
Flourish Trace 18mL
Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL

11 Flourish 3mL
Flourish Excel 12mL
Flourish Phosphorus 3mL
Flourish Nitrogen 3mL

13 Flourish Iron 11mL
Flourish 3mL
Flourish Potassium 8mL
Flourish Excel 12mL

Hopefully I can monitor plant growth and adjust dosing from here.

Not trying to be difficult, but... I have a question regarding the bio-load concern and water changes. If there are two filters, one set up for wet/dry aerobic/anaerobic bacteria, one set up for additional anaerobic bacteria and the plants basically feed on the Nitrate converted from Nitrite by the bacteria as verified through water testing, why the need for so many water changes? What constituents are being diluted by cycling new water into the tank?
I wish I had a post I made a while back n that last question.
Basically fish, and plant hormone. Algae spores. Unbeaten food, unbroken down fish poop. Decaying leaf particles.. Etc. nitrates are only a measure of water quality in relation to non plant tanks.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:01 AM
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Here is a quick read about compounds in aquarium water:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/my...dagascariensis

Although there always seem to be people who are exceptions to the rule, I think the only way you are going to be able to have a low maintenance aquarium is to have a low light, lightly stocked aquarium with a good plant substrate, good root tabs, and low light plants. There are a specific set of rules that come with higher light, co2 injected aquariums, and another specific set of rules that come with low light, low tech aquariums. Trying to mix them together has always been an algae farm for me.

Standard 10 Gallon (20 x12x12).
Low tech, Sand substrate.
Eheim 2211, and Aqueon Quietflow 10.
Finnex Stingray LED, 20" above substrate
2 Anubias Nana Petite, Christmas moss.
4 Halequin Rasborahs, 5 RCS.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Funny, there is an article in the Aquarium Fish International magazine this month regarding water quality and the compounds that build up.
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