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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quarantine Tank

Since I have been doing so much work on my tank, and have it where I want it now, I am about to start ordering some more fish.

I think it about time I setup a Quarantine Tank. Here what I have already, and think it should work OK.

20 gallon tank
h.o.t. magnum filter
heater
no grave/substrate
glass top

I am trying to keep it simple.

Questions..
How long should I leave new fish in the quarantine tank?
Do I need to add any bio other than what in the magnum?
Should I automatic treat the fish for any type of infection such as ich, or just wait and see? Only treat if they have an outbreak?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:26 PM
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20 is somewhat larger than I use but certainly workable. You may be using it for larger numbers of fish than I ever do. The setup sounds fine with one small question. Do you have the bottom painted or covered so that it is not shiny? It gives fish a real problem if left bare and not painted or something. They seem to think it is a place where they can swim lower and hide so that they go around kind of goofy and disoriented. Add some easy to move hiding. I use a pile of rocks. Most fish will like it and behave better if they can duck out of sight. That means from you as well as other fish! You are the big scary at first.
When asking about bio, do you mean for the tank cycle or as a general everyday? I handle the cycle by letting the QT filter run on my main tank so that it has bacteria ready when I swing it to the QT. No other bio needed. New fish, sick fish or small fry are all small eaters and so cut way back on what you might feed the same group. That also makes the bio-filtering much better when in QT. Do not get the idea that fish have to eat. A few days without food is often good for them as they would get far less in nature than we provide.

Do not treat without seeing some reason. Many meds are hard on the fish, can lead to drug resistant diseases and are generally expensive. Be aware of ich and ready to treat if you see it but not until you do. Study up on ich as it is one of the more likely and also fast moving things you may find. Salt and raised temp are the best I've found.

Two or three weeks is plenty for me. Most will show in behavior far sooner.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:28 PM
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I treat for internal parasites with Flubendazole and Levaisole hcl as water column dosed bug treatments because you can never see whats inside fish.
My quarantine averages 45 days.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fi...uarantine.html

HTH


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:31 PM
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I hear 30 days for the quarantine, but I can never wait that long.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:40 PM
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I use to use QT tanks, now I just wing it and keep a close eye on them for any visible signs.

But 3-4 weeks is just fine


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
20 is somewhat larger than I use but certainly workable. You may be using it for larger numbers of fish than I ever do. The setup sounds fine with one small question. Do you have the bottom painted or covered so that it is not shiny? It gives fish a real problem if left bare and not painted or something. They seem to think it is a place where they can swim lower and hide so that they go around kind of goofy and disoriented. Add some easy to move hiding. I use a pile of rocks. Most fish will like it and behave better if they can duck out of sight. That means from you as well as other fish! You are the big scary at first.
When asking about bio, do you mean for the tank cycle or as a general everyday? I handle the cycle by letting the QT filter run on my main tank so that it has bacteria ready when I swing it to the QT. No other bio needed. New fish, sick fish or small fry are all small eaters and so cut way back on what you might feed the same group. That also makes the bio-filtering much better when in QT. Do not get the idea that fish have to eat. A few days without food is often good for them as they would get far less in nature than we provide.

Do not treat without seeing some reason. Many meds are hard on the fish, can lead to drug resistant diseases and are generally expensive. Be aware of ich and ready to treat if you see it but not until you do. Study up on ich as it is one of the more likely and also fast moving things you may find. Salt and raised temp are the best I've found.

Two or three weeks is plenty for me. Most will show in behavior far sooner.
Thanks for the info. Nothing on the bottom, but I can do that easy.

I really did not want to use the 20 either, larger than I wanted, but, it what I had, if I spend money on another tank, my wife might divorce me. I am not kidding.

I ran the filter I have on the 20, on my 125 for about 3 weeks before I moved it to the 20. Don't know if I will want to keep the tank running 24/7 once my main is fully stocked. Need to think about my options a bit more in regards to filter and keeping the tank cycled.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 03:40 PM
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If you need to cycle it right away, you can always take some biomedia from your main tank to seed the QT. I usually put the biomedia in a bag (pantihose works fine) and stick it in the HOB sandwiched between filter floss.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 03:47 PM
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Rely on being careful or lucky?

Common minor and the purely stress produced issues will usually appear within 21 days or less but internal parasites can remain unseen for a very long time. Bacteria that the host has developed immunity to can wipe out others in just days. Internal parasites (what I dealt with) can take many months to destroy the host while infecting every tanking system you expose to them. Once you've dealt with a single nasty exposure 30 days will be your minimum benchmark.

Imported, domestic, Discus, Angels, live bearers, the species doesn't matter as all fish can be carriers. It's more prevalent than most hobbyist are aware of because the fish lost died with the owner not knowing what really killed them. Imports are always a risk and stuff finds it's way into fish farms all the time. Smaller specialty stock breeders maintain tighter control and take measures now more than ever before to avoid it. One in house ugly I didn't catch (no proper QT) cost me fish I'd had for years. Took over a year after the losses started to clear it completely. Further problems so far have all been stopped in quarantine tanks never entering my established tanking systems. I've lost purchased stock whole or in part several times yet have safely now retained 3rd and 4th generation in house fish here.

Knock on my knuckle bruised head I think I learned my lesson finally.


My sympathy to those that post for help fighting symptoms and losses when the root cause of their problem was a lack of proper quarantine.


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Last edited by wkndracer; 06-18-2012 at 07:47 PM. Reason: syntax
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