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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hardware

Hi there,
I have been researching for a while and I'm having some problems sifting out the info I'm really looking for. I'll start with my current set up. I'm running at approx 155 Ltr (34 uk Gal or 41 US) accounting for displacement, 2x 200w heaters, eheim classic 600, current lighting is a beauty light plus x1 (my second tube isn't working..).

Planting; hygrophila salicifolia, ludwigia, royals indica, eleocharis parvulus, didiplis diandra, nesea, hygrophila difformis, Sagittarius subulata, echinodorus Blenheim, rotala wallichi and riccia. I think a few were lost due to bad delivery and I have added a miniture lilly looking plant (from my lfs) and looking to add riccia fluitans and fissidens fontanus, oh and some willow leaf. I've found a floating plant that's appeared from nowhere too. Very small, two circular leaves to a single 'root'. Only about twelve individuals enjoying the current on the surface. Substrate is eco complete black fluorite.

And two assassins, keeping check of those pesty snails!

The tank has been cycling for 10 weeks now and my chems are on target. Hoping to add cherry bees and crystal reds next.

That all said, I'm looking to add a co2 system and fancy the fluval 88g, it seems about right for my requirements and it's not pricy for something I know little about. People have talked about extra parts they've needed to buy to get the most out of this system, and that's where I'm at a loss, what else would I need to make the system run at an optimum? The kit seems rather comprehensive. I understand that adding a co2 system also changes the input requirements to my aquarium. What extra chemicals will I need to add or keep an eye on? I've been quite happy with the standard OTS fertiliser until I add my inverts. I'm also questioning which tube, if any, I should replace my current light with.

Regards to the lighting, the second tube has a new starter, the tube works in the other fixture, I've had create a new seal, but it's just not playing ball... the last thing I really want to do is buy a new hood.

Thanks for your patience and any comments would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 04:56 PM
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In regards to CO2: you NEED to listen to this radio interview to TOM BARR:

http://www.blogtalkradio.com/aquabot...-with-tom-barr


You want to use dry ferts , buying liquid solutions is paying a lot for the water they are mixed with. Dry ferts could last you for years, it's really cheap.

There is various methods of dosing, the easiest is called the estimative index (EI). There is also perpetual preservation system (PPSpro, PPSclassic), poor man daily drops (PMDD), etc.

With EI you may not need to be testing your water parameters if you do a weekly 50% water change. It's really a genius solution to nutrients. With the other systems you need to buy a master test kit and learn your tank uptake and go from there.

I advice you to thoroughly read and understand what you want to do before spending money and guessing:

What is the estimative index? http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-for-Test-Kits

Perpetual Preservation System? http://sites.google.com/site/aquatic...r/home/pps-pro

Poor Man Daily Drops: http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/PMDD.htm


That said to answer your question, you need to be aware of NO3, PO4, K and traces.


No CO2, No FERTS?
this tank has no co2 nor dosing:




find more details in my journal (signature)

The bigger tank has CO2 and Ferts.( left)




Good luck


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A heavily planted shrimp tank is possible!
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