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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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Flourish

There's so many products out there now that say we should use them, but since there are so many I dont even know where to start? well sort of... I dont really have a great deal of knowledge of ferts. Right now I use Flourish(the regular stuff with the supplements), Flourish excel (every 3-4 days i do a regular dose, because i use Co2 injections and I'm not loaded), and Flourish Iron, dont really use it that much cause i have flourite(100%). These are the only 3 flourite product i use. I use to use root tabs but i changed to flourite and now i dont use any gravel ferts. I see that Flourish makes Flourish Potassium, Nitrogen, Phosphorous. Do I need these others? Does anyone use the Flourish line? My plants grow well but I supose they could be better? Its mainly for my 20 G/65 Watts, and 18 G/30 watts.

Also does anyone use Phosguard? Detox 2, Seagel? I would like to minimize the growth of hair/brush/brown algae and I hear that Phosphate removal would be a good start. Anyone up on this? any help would be great!

P.S. anyone know where I can find a Coralife Aqualight "20" with a 6700k 28-32 Watt bulb? Most only come with 50/50 bulb(useless to me). or anyone have an old one I can buy from them?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 01:39 AM
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Why get rid of phosphate, it's one of the three macros. I lost all my dust algae when I upped the phosphate via the enema.
I use the Lamotte kit to test for it, and keep it at about 2ppm. Really I shoot for 1 ppm, I need to do another water change.

Peter

90 Gallon, eco, pressurized, controlled, 240 watts.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 03:03 AM
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Depend on your tank's need, but Flourish is more for micro supplements such as calcium, magnesium, boron, copper....etc. Flourish does contain some NPK, but not enough for typical heavily planted tank.

If you need specified nutrient dosing, you need to get Flourish Nitrogen, Phosphate and Potassium and dose in addition to Flourish.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 03:06 AM
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I would strongly recommend you get test kit for Nitrogen, phosphate and Iron to check if your tank need to dose these separatly. Without knowing your current level of nutrients, you may underdose or overdose. Either way will likely end up as algae bloom.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 04:46 AM
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Quote:P.S. anyone know where I can find a Coralife Aqualight "20" with a 6700k 28-32 Watt bulb? Most only come with 50/50 bulb(useless to me). or anyone have an old one I can buy from them?End quote.

It is only sold with a 50/50 bulb. You will need to purchase 28 Watt 6700K bulb separately, Big Al's is one of the places that sells both.
I actually got mine from a LFS and they swapped the bulb out for me for free .
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 04:59 PM
 
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Don't waste your time or money on iron test kits. far too unreliable to test and dose based on the test results. Just dose florish iron per the label 2-3 times per week and you'll have enough iron, but not too much.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Coralife Aqualight 20" 28-32 watts.

Tino, Whered you go to get that light with the right fixture? and how much did it run you? I think the aquarium is the only place that will do it for me, and itll run 55 bucks. I got my 24" 65 watts for 60 bucks. Thats more than half the watts for 5 bucks less. Right now I have 2 15 watt Ultra Sun 6500k Bulbs. I asked all about fish to do it for me and they told me to go somewhere else and they were very rude about it(the lady owner). Guess I know how much they want my bussiness. Blah!!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samosette
Tino, Whered you go to get that light with the right fixture? and how much did it run you? I think the aquarium is the only place that will do it for me, and itll run 55 bucks. I got my 24" 65 watts for 60 bucks. Thats more than half the watts for 5 bucks less. Right now I have 2 15 watt Ultra Sun 6500k Bulbs. I asked all about fish to do it for me and they told me to go somewhere else and they were very rude about it(the lady owner). Guess I know how much they want my bussiness. Blah!!
I bought mine from Lucky Ocean Aquarium at Balboa & 2nd Ave in San Francisco. Cost me $45. As I understand, availability there is sporadic at times.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 01:30 PM
 
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Coralife Aqualight 20"

Innovative lighting in Redwood City. They swapped out the bulbs and I got the unit for 42$. If you don't want to drive there, they will for sure ship it.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malkore
Don't waste your time or money on iron test kits. far too unreliable to test and dose based on the test results.
Please site your source for this information.

I have found the Seachem Iron test kit to be reliable.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 03:34 PM
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To address the original questions:
"I see that Flourish makes Flourish Potassium, Nitrogen, Phosphorous. Do I need these others? Does anyone use the Flourish line?"
- I dose Flourish, Flourish Excel, Flourish Iron, Flourish Potassium, Flourish Nitrogen, and Flourish Phosphorous. This allows me to cover all three macros and the Traces Elements with one line. It is working for me (amazing growth, limited algae), but I have a small tank (15G). With a large tank, I think Flourish is just too expensive. When I run out of my current set of Flourish bottles, I am planning on switching to a cheaper alternative and adopt the EI dosing method (Tom Barr's Estimative Index fert method)
- You need macros, and I think the experts on here are will strongly recommend that you get some one way or another. The only thing that throws me is that you said your plants grow well. I can't tell from your post if you have an algea problem or are simply worried about a possible future algae problem. If you don't have algea, then things are working great, your fish/animal waste product must be providing enough macros, so why change a thing?! If you do have algea, then the probable cause is a lack of macros and you need to test for Nitrates and phosphates and dose macros accordingly. I'm no expert, but from what I have been reading, a good target range to aim for is about 15ppm Nitrate and 1ppm phosphate.
"Also does anyone use Phosguard? Detox 2, Seagel?"
I think that the general consensus of experienced plant people is to avoid these products, they introduce an unnatural variable into the equation. Instead of trying to chemically remove the phosphorous, you should instead encourage your plants to use up the phosphates before the algea can use it. This usually means adding Macro nutrients in sufficient/balanced quantities. Achieving this balance is the hard part. If you stumble across a dosing system that allows plant growth and avoids algea, don't change a thing, but if you are not so miraculously lucky, then you need to aquire a good nitrate and phosphate test and dose the macros.
- The 20" light, is it gonna go on the 18Gallon tank? If so that is a boost to lighting, and will make the macro requirement even more necessary to avoid algae.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantplantsnotwork
Why get rid of phosphate, it's one of the three macros. I lost all my dust algae when I upped the phosphate via the enema.
I use the Lamotte kit to test for it, and keep it at about 2ppm. Really I shoot for 1 ppm, I need to do another water change.
No kidding? I'll try that. I dose Fleet, but maybe its not enough. *One* of the types of algae I get is that brownish "dust" that collects on the leaves. Thanks for the input...my phosphate is usually 1-1.5ppm, maybe upping it to 2.0 will help.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypancistrus
Please site your source for this information.

I have found the Seachem Iron test kit to be reliable.
Yours is the first comment that I've read that claims that any inexpensive iron test kit is "reliable." Most say that they are worthless, so you have achieved a breakthrough of sorts.

Uh, how do you know that it is "reliable"?

Bill
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 10:53 PM
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Never used seachem test kits (not available in my area), so cannot comment on it. HOWEVER, I use JBL Iron testkit, and find it to be accurate

I first took reading of my tank before dosing with Flourish Iron, Undetectable.
I also took reading of my tap water, Undetectable
I then dose according to the Flourish Iron's instruction, 1ml for my 10G to raise 0.1ppm
I took another reading of the tank 2 hours later, and got a reading of 0.1ppm

So it's either pure luck, or JBL test kit and Flourish Iron is accurate to its claims.




I wouldn't say Iron test kits are unreliable. You should test it yourself to find out which brand of test kits is accurate. The testing procedure above should be pretty simple to do.

Maybe for plant geeks some are able to tell Iron overdose/underdose by simply looking at the plants. But I am not there yet, and will stick with regular testing until I get the hang of it.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 10:59 PM
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I just went up to Seachem's site to read its Iron testkit instruction. I would recommend you folks to get JBL test kits for Fe. JBL Fe test kit is a lot easier to prepare and read the result comparing to Seachem's.
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