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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Plumbing Advise?

About to setup a new tank 110 that I got from craigs list and below is how I was thinking of setting up the plumbing. Any advise or ideas or if it not going to work, please let me know, as I will be setting this up on Friday. Thanks

My main concern is with the UV setup will the valve I have limit the flow for the UV? As I need it to be lower.

Also can I put the In-Line heater after the UV? It 300W. I cannot put the heater on the main line as the size is 5/8 and will really limit my flow.

I think the drain side should be ok, at least I hope.

Bulk Head (Drain side)
X
X
Union Ball Valve
X
TXXXXXXXXXXXXX----To Canister
X
X
X
X
X
Union Ball Valve
Drian

X = PVC
- = Vinal Tubing 1 inch size
T = 3 way T
* = vinal Tubing 3/4 inch size

Everything is 1 inch unless otherwise stated

This is where it starts to get complicated for me, the Drain side was easy.

Canister (Return Side)
Staring with the Bulk Head


Bulk Head (Return Side)
X
X
Union Ball Valve
X
X
CarbonDoser EXT5000
X
X
CarbonDoser External Probe Holder
-
-
X
X
TXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
X *
X *
Ball Valve UV Sterlizer
X *
X *
TXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
X
X
-
-
Canister

Last edited by Jim_PA; 11-15-2011 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ball Valve up from the canister is on the main line, UV is supposed to be on the other line, but could not get format correct.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 04:12 PM
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Canister filters produce a very small head pressure, enough to lift water from the water level in the tank to the top of the tank rim, and not a whole lot more. Everything in the path of the water flow takes some of that head pressure, whether it is elbow fittings, reducer fittings, heaters, CO2 reactors, UV filters, or whatever. The only way the canister pump keeps pumping with those in the return path is for the flow rate to drop until the head loss is less than the available pressure. In other words, the more stuff in the return line, the lower the flow rate. With your setup I suspect you will reduce the flow rate to less than half of the open line flow rate. That can still be ok, if the flow rate remains adequate for what you want.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Canister filters produce a very small head pressure, enough to lift water from the water level in the tank to the top of the tank rim, and not a whole lot more. Everything in the path of the water flow takes some of that head pressure, whether it is elbow fittings, reducer fittings, heaters, CO2 reactors, UV filters, or whatever. The only way the canister pump keeps pumping with those in the return path is for the flow rate to drop until the head loss is less than the available pressure. In other words, the more stuff in the return line, the lower the flow rate. With your setup I suspect you will reduce the flow rate to less than half of the open line flow rate. That can still be ok, if the flow rate remains adequate for what you want.
Thanks for the info. That is what I am worried about. I assume having the canister plumbing into the bulk heads is ok? I have seen several other people on this site and other sites post doing it this way.

The canister I plan to use is a MarineLand C Service C-530.

The goal is to keep as much out of the tank as I can.

What are my options at this point? With spending the least amount of money and making it work right?

Last edited by Jim_PA; 11-15-2011 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_PA View Post
Thanks for the info. That is what I am worried about. I assume having the canister plumbing into the bulk heads is ok? I have seen several other people on this site and other sites post doing it this way.

The canister I plan to use is a MarineLand C Service C-530.

The goal is to keep as much out of the tank as I can.

What are my options at this point? With spending the least amount of money and making it work right?
If the tank already has bulkheads, go sump! lol. You can put everything you need in the sump or inline there instead.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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The tank does have bulk heads already. So if I were to switch to a sump, which I already have, I could put everything inline? The reason I removed the sump on my other tank is that it was kinda loud, but if it would work with what I have, then maybe I should keep it. I have Eheim 1260 pump, would that allow me to connect everything? The problem with this is I don't have overflow in the tank so I would have to have that setup and would have to pull my other tank apart to pull the sump out. A lot of work either way, but maybe the best option?

Could I still run the canister as well? I cannot return the canister at this point it brand new, but I have been using it on my other tank for a few weeks testing it out.

Last edited by Jim_PA; 11-15-2011 at 05:36 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 07:43 PM
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If I was in this position, and I soonn might be, id let the filter do filtering without the additional gizmos. I've been thinking about this with regards to mynew 90 gallon. The solution I've been batting around is to get a small "pond pump" and run all my stuff on that loop. Pond pumps seem to have better head pressure so I figure that would work to push water past the accessories. Plus, I could adjust the flow on that loop to increase dwell time for UV, heater, reactor...etc., without reducing filter gph. Then I was thinking about plumbing the output into a DIY spraybar for additional water movement.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Daximus View Post
If I was in this position, and I soonn might be, id let the filter do filtering without the additional gizmos. I've been thinking about this with regards to mynew 90 gallon. The solution I've been batting around is to get a small "pond pump" and run all my stuff on that loop. Pond pumps seem to have better head pressure so I figure that would work to push water past the accessories. Plus, I could adjust the flow on that loop to increase dwell time for UV, heater, reactor...etc., without reducing filter gph. Then I was thinking about plumbing the output into a DIY spraybar for additional water movement.

If I went that route I would need to drill another hole? Or could I T off of the bulk head I already have for the drain? If I did that I guess I could just get a second canister for the UV, CO2 and heater? This tank will be in the main room of our home so I need it to be silent, not sure if I will get that with pond pump?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim_PA View Post
If I went that route I would need to drill another hole? Or could I T off of the bulk head I already have for the drain? If I did that I guess I could just get a second canister for the UV, CO2 and heater? This tank will be in the main room of our home so I need it to be silent, not sure if I will get that with pond pump?
I didn't see that your tank was drilled...my bad.

I was just tossing up ideas that I had been considering for my new 90 gallon. I've ordered an Aquatop CF-500UV, it's cheap and I don't expect the flow to be insane...even before adding a heater and a reactor. So I had been thinking of adding another loop for stuff like this.

You probably would need to drill more holes...but even if you added another cannister you would need to right? Anyways, sorry if I confused you, I was just tossing out ideas that I've been thinking about.

So I guess...

Either one, get the baddest canister on the planet. Capable of wicked gph...that way the gph will still be acceptable when you add the extras.

Two, drill another set of holes and add a pump, or a secondary canister.

Or three, go with a sump system like others have suggested.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daximus View Post
I didn't see that your tank was drilled...my bad.

I was just tossing up ideas that I had been considering for my new 90 gallon. I've ordered an Aquatop CF-500UV, it's cheap and I don't expect the flow to be insane...even before adding a heater and a reactor. So I had been thinking of adding another loop for stuff like this.

You probably would need to drill more holes...but even if you added another cannister you would need to right? Anyways, sorry if I confused you, I was just tossing out ideas that I've been thinking about.

So I guess...

Either one, get the baddest canister on the planet. Capable of wicked gph...that way the gph will still be acceptable when you add the extras.

Two, drill another set of holes and add a pump, or a secondary canister.

Or three, go with a sump system like others have suggested.
I am confused in general so no wories, any advise is welcome, as wife starting to get annoyed with me . At this point I want to do what will cost the least amount, but still work good

The Canister I have now is 530 GPH. I think it would really get cut down if I put all the stuff in line.

So my options

I have a Eheim 1260 already only month old sitting in box. Could I drill 2 new holes in the tank and use that? Not sure how that would work as far as flow? I would have to put ball valve in for sure Wonder if that would work to connect all the equipment to?

Never drilled a tank before so that could be a risk.

Other option is to take and install the sump I already have it 30 gallons. Problem with that, it loud, but might be the way it was setup before. I guess I could run the lines for the canister over the back and still use that as well, hate to waste a brand new canister.

If I went with the sump, I don't have any type of overflow, could I just connect direct to the builk head and keep my drain low and return low like I do with the canister? I am thinking I cannot and would have to add some pipes to the bulk heads that go to the top of the tank?
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 01:24 AM
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if the probe is for measuring ph you would want to run it before the reactor
if you are concerned about flow loss you could set up a simple test
with a few barbs a tee and some hose for little cost
then if satisfied a permanent plumbing install
i had my marineland 360 going though a bunch of stuff like that
the flow loss wasn't hugh, nor small lol
running a 500gph at 6 ft head pump on it now and using the marineland on a different tank
not because it didnt work it was just a better option for me
most of the flow loss will be at the vu which is a good thing anyway
the tee is 1 inch in and 2 1inch out so theres not much resistance to that
heater is straight thru hollow
the good thing is the marineland filters have strong pumps
less flow to reactor not bad i think because there not made to handle 530 gph if im not mistaken
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by willknowitall View Post
if the probe is for measuring ph you would want to run it before the reactor
if you are concerned about flow loss you could set up a simple test
with a few barbs a tee and some hose for little cost
then if satisfied a permanent plumbing install
i had my marineland 360 going though a bunch of stuff like that
the flow loss wasn't hugh, nor small lol
running a 500gph at 6 ft head pump on it now and using the marineland on a different tank
not because it didnt work it was just a better option for me
most of the flow loss will be at the vu which is a good thing anyway
the tee is 1 inch in and 2 1inch out so theres not much resistance to that
heater is straight thru hollow
the good thing is the marineland filters have strong pumps
less flow to reactor not bad i think because there not made to handle 530 gph if im not mistaken
Thanks for the info. At this point I am thinking it would be worth a try. The Marineland Canister is connected to the bulk heads now. My option is to just run the Marineland Canister alone like I am now, and buy a smaller Canister and just run those hoses up the back of the tank for the drain and return. Do you think that would be the better option?

I was thinking a C-220 or 360, to run all that stuff. I could get something else just need something that very quite.

Thanks
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim_PA View Post
Thanks for the info. At this point I am thinking it would be worth a try. The Marineland Canister is connected to the bulk heads now. My option is to just run the Marineland Canister alone like I am now, and buy a smaller Canister and just run those hoses up the back of the tank for the drain and return. Do you think that would be the better option?

I was thinking a C-220 or 360, to run all that stuff. I could get something else just need something that very quite.

Thanks
i really like having all my auxiliary stuff attached to a pvc manifold
that being said i would set up all the gear on a manifold with ball valves and unions so it can be attached dis-attached as a unit
that way you could attach it to 530 to see how it works
if the flow was not enough you could simply use smaller intake outlet barbs and attach it to a 220 or 360
or just use one of those for extra flow
how many bulkheads do you have on tank just one in one out and where are they?
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by willknowitall View Post
i really like having all my auxiliary stuff attached to a pvc manifold
that being said i would set up all the gear on a manifold with ball valves and unions so it can be attached dis-attached as a unit
that way you could attach it to 530 to see how it works
if the flow was not enough you could simply use smaller intake outlet barbs and attach it to a 220 or 360
or just use one of those for extra flow
how many bulkheads do you have on tank just one in one out and where are they?
That a good idea, about the manifold, I was in the process of looking into that today. Just trying to find out what I need and how to run it all back to the filter.

as for the bulkheads I have one in and one out. They are on the bottom of the tank, left side.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 05:16 AM
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When I figure out my 90 I'll let you know, lol. Mine is not drilled, and I have no plans to drill it.

If it was drilled, I would figure out how to sump it. I've seen sumped tanks...done properly, they are dead quiet.
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