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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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New to plants

I have had several tanks salt and fresh--never coral nor plants. I am diving into both now. I have bought a 4' almost 2' around piece of driftwood (not sure on what kind) I am curing out back it has been 2 weeks now and still floats. The wife picked it out for our 100gal community tank. I have 3 t8 coralife 32watt plant growth light bulbs. Tank is 2' deep.

The question is where do I go from here.I know it will be some time for the drift wood but I'm also thinking algae control w/shrimp otos.ect. I really don't want a bloom/problem. Also was wandering if I could stay away from co2 if not to be a fully planted tank just replace the fake with real? What are some options/opinions? also does driftwood change water parms?

Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 03:41 AM
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driftwood releases tannins into the water. Tannins leaching from an unprepared driftwood decoration in an aquarium can cause pH lowering and coloring of the water to a tea-like tinge.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Understood from that point witch is why I am curing it out back. My ? was once it is done w/tannins will it still be an isue?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 04:06 AM
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It may still reduce your pH some but most tropical fish prefer slightly acidic water.

You can stay away from CO2 by making sure you have low to medium light. Use plants that prefer low light, I believe there is a list in the Plant section of this forum.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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And by low to med what do you mean? I have a single t8 at 32watts or 2 t8"s at 64 or all 3 giving me 96watts in a 2'deep 100gal tank
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 04:04 PM
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generally speaking going above 2 wpg will likely require CO2 to keep algae at bay.

take a look at this thread, the second chart shows light intensity vs. tank height and distance from top of tank.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/li...t5-t12-pc.html

according to the chart it looks like you definitely will want at least 2 t-8s, 2 or all 3 t-8s would put you in low light.

do you lights give you fairly even coverage across your entire tank?


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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Well right now it is just the one But when all 3 are on oh MAN is it bright! so yes it lights it up.

I did look at the thread but with that info and what I'm finding are confusing.

This is what I'm going for (if possible).

I have a 95-100 gallon tank has been strong for 3 years recently moved and all of a sudden have very slight algae (I am not a fan of it) do to city change thinking phosphate in the water? Any who I am wanting live plants (not fully planted but well keep) easy to care for. My wife has bought a 4' and about 10" around piece of driftwood. I am in week 3 of curing it out back-still has slight tannin's and smell but has not sunk yet. Time will tell. So All input is great.

Questions are.... Will (once cured) the wood effect my water/how? do plants effect ph? Then comes the algae, what takes care of that and doesn't eat the plants? I'm not necessarily looking for cheap answers but don't want lots of problems. Is a quarantene tank a must? Thanks.

What are some inputs as far as DIY co2 if I went that rout as far as doing it every now and then not to over grow my tank just to make it look good
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 05:21 AM
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I think just dosing excel occasionally would be a better idea than occasional DIY. as far as algae eaters, I really like otos, but with a tank the size you have some options siamese algae eaters work pretty well, but I've heard they can get territorial. I think it would help if you told us what was in the tank right now, maybe a photo or something so you can get some plant suggestions that will go well with your current scape.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well as far as fish it's a big mix Neons,blood fins,bleeding hearts,serpas,harliquins,1 redeye,black skirts,black strip neon,roasy barbs,rummy nose,white clouds?,congo? sisser tail,gouramies, and like 4 others I forgrt the name, My algae cleaners are 2 gold chines algae eaters wich I have had for like 3 years and never had any problems with them.

I know it sounds like a lot of fish but really there are only about 30-40 in there

As far as the scape goes, when the driftwood is done curing I am removing the entire tank except water and re scaping the entire thing.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 02:02 PM
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with the volume of water you have I would guess that the wood would only slightly lower the pH. the longer you go between changes the more the pH will go down overtime.

I don't think plants effect pH although some plants can have certain pH requirements. But most common plants shouldn't be an issue.

Algae depends on what type of algae you are dealing with. There are certain animals that eat certain types of algae best. Also there are different ways to address different types of algae, like reducing light, spot treating with H2O2 etc.

I don't use a quarantine tank, but its a big risk to current fish stock not to use one. If you aren't concerned about costs, I'd highly recommend one.


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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Well it is IMO a huge chunk of wood. So what your saying if I keep up with water changes it is unlikely to have PH problems? As I do now a weekly cleaning and a monthly 20% gravelvac water change?

I am really thinking quarantine for mainly to make sure no snails get in. I am ganna make one for my salt tank thinking I may as well do one up the the fresh as well but only for the plants with 1 beta and one clown loach. beta to eat snail eggs and loach to eat snails. Opinions on this theory?

As far as the algae I have no problems now nor have I ever in my 6 years. I was just thinking plants plus way more light and no planted tank experience = algae trouble. I was just thinking some possible preventive measures. I have heard planted tanks have more algae problems the other tanks. And didn't know if certain fish/algae eaters eat plants---I refuse a pleco so anything else would be nice.

Thanks!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2011, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by abitsalty View Post
Well it is IMO a huge chunk of wood. So what your saying if I keep up with water changes it is unlikely to have PH problems? As I do now a weekly cleaning and a monthly 20% gravelvac water change?

I am really thinking quarantine for mainly to make sure no snails get in. I am ganna make one for my salt tank thinking I may as well do one up the the fresh as well but only for the plants with 1 beta and one clown loach. beta to eat snail eggs and loach to eat snails. Opinions on this theory?

As far as the algae I have no problems now nor have I ever in my 6 years. I was just thinking plants plus way more light and no planted tank experience = algae trouble. I was just thinking some possible preventive measures. I have heard planted tanks have more algae problems the other tanks. And didn't know if certain fish/algae eaters eat plants---I refuse a pleco so anything else would be nice.

Thanks!
I wouldn't be concerned about the pH unless starting out with water that was already a bit acidic that was also very soft.

I'm not 100% sure but I think clown loaches are social fish so you'd want at least 3, they also get quite big. I'm not sure what size quarantine tank you are considering but clowns would probably need at least a 55. A better choice for snail control might would be a small loach like zebras.

Amano shrimp, ottos, and nerite snails are probably the best algae eaters. Bristlenose plecos are good algae eaters and they don't get big but you said no plecos


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2011, 04:09 AM
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Well it is IMO a huge chunk of wood. So what your saying if I keep up with water changes it is unlikely to have PH problems? As I do now a weekly cleaning and a monthly 20% gravelvac water change?

I am really thinking quarantine for mainly to make sure no snails get in. I am ganna make one for my salt tank thinking I may as well do one up the the fresh as well but only for the plants with 1 beta and one clown loach. beta to eat snail eggs and loach to eat snails. Opinions on this theory?

As far as the algae I have no problems now nor have I ever in my 6 years. I was just thinking plants plus way more light and no planted tank experience = algae trouble. I was just thinking some possible preventive measures. I have heard planted tanks have more algae problems the other tanks. And didn't know if certain fish/algae eaters eat plants---I refuse a pleco so anything else would be nice.

Thanks!
The only plecos that are worth anything are the ancistrus family, so no big loss there. I think that plan sounds fine for the QT tank, none of those fish should interfere with incoming fish who are to be QTed though. any clue what plants you want yet. I would recommend some low light ones like java fern, mosses, anubias, certain swords, and crypts. It's also a good idea to get some fast growers, like water wisteria or anacharis. From your stocking list I can see you aren't going for a biotope, so the options are pretty wide open for plants.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Basically all the plants you have named are the ones I was looking at. At least until once I get the hang of this get more interesting ones.
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