Calpoly12's High-Tec Build - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Calpoly12's High-Tec Build

Hello everyone! I am starting a 40g tank. I have been discussing this on MFK for a few weeks, I highly suggest checking this out as it has a lot of information about where I want this tank to go...http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ild&highlight=


Here is a basic breakdown of where I'm at so far...

I have been moving a lot and finally found a place close to campus and I will be there for the next year, so I've decided to buckle down and do a high-tec planted tank. I currently am still in the research stage of what I actually want to buy, but I have a good idea of what I want to do with everything. I'll post pictures as I progress through this and hopefully I can get some feedback, negative or positive! This is going to be a lot of info at once,but it's everything I plan on doing.

HERE WE GO!

Equipment:
Tank:
CUBE GARDEN 75-P HIGH CLARITY GLASS (40 gallon rimless)


Lighting:
36" 4x39W T5 HO, got it from a guy online.
Going to suspend it from the ceiling.
These are the bulbs I'll be using...

Giesemann PowerChrome Aqua Flora T5 Lamp http://www.aquacave.com/giesemann-po...amps-2306.html
Giesemann Power Chrome Midday T5 Lamps
http://www.aquacave.com/giesemann-po...lamps-833.html
The lights will be automatic and will be run for 10 hours a day.

Heater:
Hydor ETH 200 In-line Heater.
I want to put this on the out take line so that the water running through it is clean and not full of junk

Filtration:
265 GPH AQUARIUM CANISTER FILTER W/ 9W UV LIGHT & MEDIA.
Read some good reviews on this so I ordered it.

CO2:
SMS122 pH Controller + Milwaukee C02 Regulator MA957

So that is it for the physical "hardware" I'm going to be building a custom stand to put it on and will be designing my own lilly pipes for the intake and output.

Here comes the substrate and ferts section!

Substrate:


You can find the individual items on their site, but here is a list:

3x 20lb bags of Malaya Normal Type Aquasoil
1x Penac W 200g (Aquarium)
1x Penac P 200g (For Plants)
1x Tourmaline BC
1x Bacter 100
1x Power Sand SPECIAL-M 6 Liter
2x Aqua Soil Malaya (3 Liters)-Powder Type

This should be enough to give me good coverage and nutrients.

Fertilizers:
Pfertz High tec+
What else should I be dosing?


Fauna:
Siamese algae eater x2
Breeding pair of Snakeskin Discus
Cherry Shrimp
Cardinal Tetras x25(maybe less)
Oto x2
BGR x2

Open to suggestions!

Plants:
Ill figure this out more when I get the hardware and everything!!! Suggestions are welcome though!




I have the tank,filter,light,ferts,stand. I need the bulbs,co2,substrate,plants,fauna.....

There is a bit more info on the MFK thread so feel free to look around on there............let me know what you guys think
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 07:31 PM
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You are overdoing it with light. The tank is about 18 inches high. Subtract 2 inches for the substrate and the light would sit about 16 inches above the substrate. One T5HO tube, with a good reflector, would give you about 100 micromols of PAR at that distance. Four would give about 400 micromols - way beyond what you can use. If you hang the 4 tube light about 36 inches above the substrate, 20 inches above the top of the tank, you would get around 80 micromols of PAR, which can be workable, but you will have a constant battle to keep algae from taking over the tank. Reduce that light to about 40 micromols and you can grow anything, not have to use so much CO2 as to always threaten to kill the fish, and have few algae problems in comparison. That would be just two tubes at 36 inches from the substrate. Or, with one single T5HO tube, with a good reflector, you could put it at about 25 inches from the substrate, and also get 40 micromols of PAR, using far less electricity, and have far less light spillover.

For a substrate, ADA Aquasoil is good. Some people think PowerSand is effective, but not all people. The other stuff is unnecessary.

The least expensive, most flexible way to fertilize is with dry chemicals: Potassium Nitrate, Mono potassium phosphate, and a trace mix, like CSM+B, dosed per the fertilizing forum sticky.

Chinese Algae eaters are not likely to be what you want them to be. If you want a fish that does eat algae, try Otocinclus. Cherry shrimp will likely have trouble surviving the predatory habits of the other fish, including the Discus. And, I don't think, but I'm not sure, that you will want that many other fish with the breeding pair of Discus.

Hoppy
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
You are overdoing it with light. The tank is about 18 inches high. Subtract 2 inches for the substrate and the light would sit about 16 inches above the substrate. One T5HO tube, with a good reflector, would give you about 100 micromols of PAR at that distance. Four would give about 400 micromols - way beyond what you can use. If you hang the 4 tube light about 36 inches above the substrate, 20 inches above the top of the tank, you would get around 80 micromols of PAR, which can be workable, but you will have a constant battle to keep algae from taking over the tank. Reduce that light to about 40 micromols and you can grow anything, not have to use so much CO2 as to always threaten to kill the fish, and have few algae problems in comparison. That would be just two tubes at 36 inches from the substrate. Or, with one single T5HO tube, with a good reflector, you could put it at about 25 inches from the substrate, and also get 40 micromols of PAR, using far less electricity, and have far less light spillover.

For a substrate, ADA Aquasoil is good. Some people think PowerSand is effective, but not all people. The other stuff is unnecessary.

The least expensive, most flexible way to fertilize is with dry chemicals: Potassium Nitrate, Mono potassium phosphate, and a trace mix, like CSM+B, dosed per the fertilizing forum sticky.

Chinese Algae eaters are not likely to be what you want them to be. If you want a fish that does eat algae, try Otocinclus. Cherry shrimp will likely have trouble surviving the predatory habits of the other fish, including the Discus. And, I don't think, but I'm not sure, that you will want that many other fish with the breeding pair of Discus.
thanks for all the feedback! raised some good points that I didnt think about, especially with the occupants. do i really only want the substrate to be 2"?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 10:03 AM
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<----- Cal Poly SLO Graduate

What are you studying there?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CalPoly12 View Post
thanks for all the feedback! raised some good points that I didnt think about, especially with the occupants. do i really only want the substrate to be 2"?
Your substrate, imo, has to be at least 2" deep...are you planning on not having rooted plants (of course you are!)

2" minimum. Anything less and your fish may even move the substrate around to expose the bottom glass panel!

I would think 2" is pretty appropriate...I would go even slightly deeper.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-14-2011, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrosag View Post
Your substrate, imo, has to be at least 2" deep...are you planning on not having rooted plants (of course you are!)

2" minimum. Anything less and your fish may even move the substrate around to expose the bottom glass panel!

I would think 2" is pretty appropriate...I would go even slightly deeper.
Ya i was planning on pretty deep substrate! so excited for this tank, any suggestions about my desired set up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by astrosag View Post
<----- Cal Poly SLO Graduate

What are you studying there?
Forestry and fuels management, going to be a firefighter!!!!!!! school starts monday god darn it but im going to have a fat party thursday to kick it off
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